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size of carb shim question

Shim Specs: Shims are .020" thick and 3mm ID you can find something close enough at Radio Shack. Radio Shack Model: Flat washers Catalog #: 64-3022
the pack says #2,#4,#6,#8 washers. you want #4 just find which is the second smallest. thats what i did.
having a little issue here, both of these posts are from the carb shimming sticky.

here are the spec's for a #4 washer
* ID = 0.1250" , 1/8" , 3.175mm
* OD = 0.3750" , 3/8" , 9.525mm
* thickness = 0.0400" , 1.016mm

so that being said is the #4 for sure the right size?

also it's mentioned somewhere in the sticky that 1 shim = half a position on a jet kit needle. Well since #4 shims are twice the thickness of what zzr originally posted is each shim a whole position on a jet kit needle, or is it right to think each #4 would be about half a position on a needle?

thanks just trying to get this all cleared up.
 

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#4 Washer

I have some #4 brass washers left over from shimming the carb on my old KLR650. I plan on using four of them to do the ZZR this weekend.

This is what my Frankford Arsenal calipers are telling me:

ID: 0.115" -- 2.921mm
OD: 0.282" -- 7.162mm
Thickness: 0.032" -- 0.812mm
 

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#4 washers should be a standard size, like a 3/8" bolt.

your vernier might be a hair off?
 

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Yes and no. Off a little, yes. Off that much, no.

My #4's didnt fit on the needle where it widens. I had to ream out a ridiculously small amount of metal with a drill bit (by hand) to get it to get over that. Then, the needle has some raised lettering on it and I had to ream out another unnoticeable amount to get over that. No big deal. Added about 4 minutes total.

What a difference this makes though. I'm running a +4 ignition advancer, Scorpion bolt on, and now the carbs are shimmed with a #4 washer. I would say she is finally complete.

Now shimming could have just been what was needed to set the advancer and bolt on free, but I would say I noticed shimming by far more than the the advancer and bolt on.
 

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Anyone do 3

I read someone here has done 2 number 4 washers from the radioshack bag and loved it. Anyone do 3 shims???

also, I'm about to throw in the ignition advancer. So is it WORTH it to shim the carbs and throw in an aftermarket filter. or is the advancer enough.

Currently have a D&D chrome bolt on.

Does anyone have the link for the video of shimming the carbs. I have seen it once but lost it.

Thanks guys
 

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I read someone here has done 2 number 4 washers from the radioshack bag and loved it. Anyone do 3 shims???

also, I'm about to throw in the ignition advancer. So is it WORTH it to shim the carbs and throw in an aftermarket filter. or is the advancer enough.

Currently have a D&D chrome bolt on.

Does anyone have the link for the video of shimming the carbs. I have seen it once but lost it.

Thanks guys
it sounds like you need to do some more research man. You put shims on how your bike needs, every one is going to be a bit different. Honestly people complain about a flat spot at 5-6k rpms.....but thats not even remotely in the powerband. I guess if the shim helps great, but my bike flies from 8-14 and i dont want more fueling around 6 because thats my cruising rpm range.

i'm going to do a pull on a dyno here soon to make sure im not overly lean anywhere but if the a/f ratio's are where i want them, i wont even touch carbs.
 

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shimmed mine today(#4 from radiocrack). took about 1.5 hours;overall this was an easy mod, hardest part was putting the airfilter box back on lol....noticed bike is a little smoother, but probably wouldnt do it again unless i already needed to get the the carbs. nice write up tho :dblthumb
 

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I guess it's a matter of personal preference on whether or not you want to spend the cash for a jet kit. I have personally talked with several service managers at different Kawasaki dealerships about installing a jet kit with a bolt-on exhaust and they have expressed to me that it's really not necessary to have a jet kit for a bolt-on. They did say that if your going with a full exhaust system that it would be more beneficial for optimum performance to have a jet kit installed. I personally have my main jet needles shimmed. This has helped with smoothing out the mid range power band on the ZZR. It eliminates the factory lean settings. It's also much cheaper than a jet kit. Regards, Jay

http://www.gstwins.com/zx6r/zx6r_shim.htm
It might just be my computer but it looks like the link isn't wrking anymore.
 

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Yeah thats the one that works. I was trying the one in the original post before. It wasn't working so I read a few pages... Just not the last one. I got it now.
 

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I read someone here has done 2 number 4 washers from the radioshack bag and loved it. Anyone do 3 shims???

also, I'm about to throw in the ignition advancer. So is it WORTH it to shim the carbs and throw in an aftermarket filter. or is the advancer enough.

Currently have a D&D chrome bolt on.

Does anyone have the link for the video of shimming the carbs. I have seen it once but lost it.

Thanks guys
I had the advancer installed first, rode like that for awhile, then shimmed the carbs. Several months later I got a Yoshimura RS3, then several months later still I dropped in a K&N. Oh, and somewhere along the way I put in NGK Iridium plugs. I'd say the biggest difference to tie it all together was the can. I don't think the potential gains were realized until then. I did not see a huge difference with the plugs or drop in filter, but presumably the engine breathes better and the idle is a bit smoother.
 

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ive done two washers. bikes runs great but a little rich. it takes a crack in the throttle to start when warm. i was thinkin about removing one and tryin it again. the link has been changed to this ---> http://andrewsimagery.com/personal/shim/index.html and i do believe it was oreo that had three shims.....? i could be wrong though.
did u ever remove one or still running on 2?
 

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im back down to just one right now. i decided to shim cause after gettin a can i noticed the infamous flat spot around 5K. one shim didnt take it away but two did. later she became hard to start warm. so tryin to fix the starting issue i took one out (by this time i had already installed a ignition advancer). the starting never got better but the flat spot was now gone i believe due to the advancer. i had no desire to put the second shim back in cause gettin rid of the flat spot was my only goal in shimming.
 

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im back down to just one right now. i decided to shim cause after gettin a can i noticed the infamous flat spot around 5K. one shim didnt take it away but two did. later she became hard to start warm. so tryin to fix the starting issue i took one out (by this time i had already installed a ignition advancer). the starting never got better but the flat spot was now gone i believe due to the advancer. i had no desire to put the second shim back in cause gettin rid of the flat spot was my only goal in shimming.
cool...so i guess 1 is the way to go it seems....all i have is a viper can new plugs and the silencer taken off the intake so i guess 2 isnt needed then.. thanks for the info
 

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I completed this today after installing my exhaust yesterday and I would like to say thanks for posting this. I put 1 shim on each and thanks to this walkthrough it made it easy.
 

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I put 1 shim on each and really didn't notice too much of a difference, I may have to put 1 more on each and see what happens. Whats the worse that can happen?lol, I went to take the bike back out this morning and noticed my battery didn't have enough juice, Gonna put the battery tender on and let it charge her up, Just hope I dont need a new battery, I have only had the bike a year now.
 

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Well I went back and put another shim on each for a total of 2 and man what a difference, The bike is now night and day compared to just the one shim. Now there is no hesitation when I first start to accelerate. I am now completely happy with the performance of this machine. From Acceleration to mid-top end, to handling and of course sound, this is an awesome bike.
 
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