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Discussion Starter #1
I just swapped the front sprocket for 1 tooth less, and it helped, but my Yamaha dealer went to the extra effort of calling Yamaha and they told him that they have some special mod in the electrical system that will do somthing to the map and give more low end power. i haven't seen the schematics yet as they were going to fax it to him. Anyone hear of this? Should I let him do it? Keep in mind I already have a powercomander.
 

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Livin' on the Edge!
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Cavi said:
I just swapped the front sprocket for 1 tooth less, and it helped, but my Yamaha dealer went to the extra effort of calling Yamaha and they told him that they have some special mod in the electrical system that will do somthing to the map and give more low end power. i haven't seen the schematics yet as they were going to fax it to him. Anyone hear of this? Should I let him do it? Keep in mind I already have a powercomander.
I would ask THEM that question. If all they are doing is modifying the fuel map, then the pc can be programed to handle that. If they are modifying other things as well, such as timing and whatever else is involved, then that's different. I'm just guessing here, folks as I really know nothing about this stuff....but I did sleep at a holiday inn express last night.... booo....worn out, I know. But seriously, the pc overides the bikes FI mapping so you need to bring that to their attention, especially if you have to pay them to do it.
 

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Now im interested too.
 

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This is very interesting indeed. I'm taking mine in for the 600 mile service tomorrow and will ask my dealer about this.
 

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I'd love to find out more about this. Could you please post who your dealer is and who they contacted at Yamaha for this info? I'll give my dealer a call and ask him to check it out as well but it would help if I told him who to talk to....
 

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You will be missed Shawn
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i ws told on the R1 (i know this is for an FZ6), tht one can adjust some mapping via the button on the instrument cluster. this may be what they are referring to. how it works or whether it works w/a PC is a complete guess, but I'm betting that is the mod they are talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I spoke again with the tech from the dealership and it is not the mapping, it is physical settings on parts of the throttleboddies and fuel ports, I do not know for sure but I will get more details
 

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Fuelling adjustment

Fascinating stuff, this. Great post from the R6 forum. I have a UK bike and I can go into the Co mode. I found this out by reading the US Service Manual that I downloaded from the FOC-U site here in the UK. But Anthony in Texas said his US bike would only go into diag mode, not Co. Strange. So maybe you need to cut and earth some wires to get into Co on the US bikes.

It's very tempting to richen up C3 a bit to see if it sorts the 6-7K torque dip.

What we need is someone to make adjustments whilst on a dyno with an a/f analyser! Any takers?
 

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You will be missed Shawn
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so you guys have a dip in the 6-7k range too huh? i guess it would make sense w/it being yamaha, but i honestly didn't know that.
 

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I guess the emision law measurements are done at 6000 rpm. Therefore it has a dip on that part. Would be great to avoid it without having to buy a power commander.
 

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mmmm FZ6 N(aked)
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Glyn9 said:
Fascinating stuff, this. Great post from the R6 forum. I have a UK bike and I can go into the Co mode. I found this out by reading the US Service Manual that I downloaded from the FOC-U site here in the UK. But Anthony in Texas said his US bike would only go into diag mode, not Co. Strange. So maybe you need to cut and earth some wires to get into Co on the US bikes.

It's very tempting to richen up C3 a bit to see if it sorts the 6-7K torque dip.

What we need is someone to make adjustments whilst on a dyno with an a/f analyser! Any takers?
Glyn9, How did you get into the Co mode. I am in Australia and apparently we get the European models so after reading the R6 Forum I tried it on my bike. I turned on the bike while holding the select and reset buttons which got me into the "diag" mode, holding the buttons again got me into Co mode and pushing them again got me to c1 mode. Mine differed from the website as I only had c1 and c2, no c3 or c4. Is yours the same or are you able to access c3 and c4? My default settings were:
c1 -18
c2 -1
Also, I had to push either select or reset to scroll between c1 and c2 and then hold both together to see the setting for that particular c* number. Which differs from the r6 site in the they have to push either button to scroll the setting and then both to go to the next c* number.

Has anyone else heard about these settings? are they the same as the one discussed in the R6 forum? or am I just doing it wrong :alky

Cheers
 

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Maybe our ECM is less complicated than the one on the R6??? They have to save money somehow when they made the bike. Did you try to adjust the CO settings?? Im just curious cause im thinking about trying to set the C1 higher for more fuel. I have to agree with most on the fact that our bikes have a way too lean fuel mixture.
 

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hmmm this is interesting.

I'm hesitating though to change the CO levels. Can this result in damage to the bike or is this just fine tuning?
 

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Karoshi said:
hmmm this is interesting.

I'm hesitating though to change the CO levels. Can this result in damage to the bike or is this just fine tuning?
I'm not sure what the C1 and C2 levels stand for. But we will let you try out. If it works than we will try it also. If your engine breaks down, then we know what not to do... (where did that smilie go?)
 

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mxtr said:
I'm not sure what the C1 and C2 levels stand for. But we will let you try out. If it works than we will try it also. If your engine breaks down, then we know what not to do...
Wow that's a great deal :flipa

I did some research and already read through the post in the R6 forum:

Code C1:
At 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or less of engine speed:
This affects the idling stability and the feeling experienced during races. Too rich an air-fuel mixture may foul the spark plugs.

Code C2:
At 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or more of engine
speed:
This affects the feeling experienced during engine braking and at initial
throttle opening. Make a change of 2 to 5% at a time while checking for any resulting changes.

Code C3:
At 25% to 90% of throttle opening:
This affects the feeling experienced at half throttle opening. Make a change of 2 to 5% at a time and check for any resulting changes.

Code C4:
At 90% or more of throttle opening:
This affects the feeling experienced at full throttle. Adjustment to too lean a mixture will lead to engine breakdown. Adjustment by checking the A/F is recommended. In particular, to adjust on the leaner side, make a change of 1 to 2% at a time while checking for the result. 12 to 13 is a targeted A/F.

courtesy of R6messagenet.

So i think adding some to the C3 will change the 6.5k rpm gap. In the R6 forum they came up with a general rule to increase everything with 3 points. But they report to have less power in the top end of the rpm but smoother in the low end...

Another strange thins is that every bike has a different factory setting. This means either they are all fine tuned when they leave the factory or it is really factory specific and the ECM is adjusting itself according to the lamba sensor
 

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Karoshi said:
Code C2:
At 25% or less of throttle opening and at 3000 rpm or more of engine
speed:
This affects the feeling experienced during engine braking and at initial
throttle opening. Make a change of 2 to 5% at a time while checking for any resulting changes.
At low speeds while breaking I'm noticing the engine is kind of pulsing a little under braking, but not doing the big shake, do you think that this setting may be doing that, or is it normal.
 

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lbjester said:
At low speeds while breaking I'm noticing the engine is kind of pulsing a little under braking, but not doing the big shake, do you think that this setting may be doing that, or is it normal.
I'm sorry i have no idea.
Can you be more specific? Is it as if the engine is still trying to move forward although you are already pulling on the clutch?
 
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