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Yeah, if you can find all the parts to that S3, you can go ahead and dig them all out of my trailer, and I'll sell it back to you, lol.

And sadly, I'm not going to be making any trips to Kansas any time soon.... it was easier when I lived in Illinois, but now that I'm in North Carolina... yeah, we'll see.

But yeah- who wouldn't be impressed with a bike painted like that? It's badass, and I've always been a fan of the Dukes.
I'll take it! Let me figure out how to get to NC.
 

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warning...I'm no professional painter. or photographer lol

but this is the kind of finish you can achieve with a sharpe finex even as a hobbiest.
I only spent about 15 min buffing it. not too bad for doing it in a garage and no formal training. the gun just prays so well.
there's also nothing better than being able to paint your own stuff. knowing you can mess it up and in 2 days for a few bucks of paint and sweat it's back to new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
That looks great. I would be more than happy with that kind of work. Did you have to use progressive sanding or did you just buff?

I'm almomst settled on a finex FX1000 mini gun. What's your setup? Would a 1.4 nozzle be too large? I'm most likely going to spray only Dupont Chromabase/chromaclear or it's ppg equivalent.

No metallics for me at this point.
 

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mine is a 1.5 tip. They messed up my order when I bought it. I just have to turn up the air to atomize it better or it comes out with too much orange peel.

that tank above I only had to lightly wetsand it (1500 grit)and buff it really quick. find yourself some 3" buffing pads. it's way easier than using a large one like for a car.
I actually probably worked on it for 30 min now that I really think about it. most of that was the sanding.

don't get me wrong I had to practice a bunch of times to get this kind of results. but now that I have my gun dialed in I can repeat it over and over.
 

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mine is a 1.5 tip. They messed up my order when I bought it. I just have to turn up the air to atomize it better or it comes out with too much orange peel.

that tank above I only had to lightly wetsand it (1500 grit)and buff it really quick. find yourself some 3" buffing pads. it's way easier than using a large one like for a car.
I actually probably worked on it for 30 min now that I really think about it. most of that was the sanding.
+1 on the 3" buffer.... I use a chicago pneumatic buffer/polisher kit. It was like 130 bucks. Works AWESOME. You do need a fairly large compressor to keep up with it, but it's amazing. I think it's like 1/3 horsepower, so it digs in pretty good.

I usually do 1200 or 1500 grit wetsand (or 1000 if i need to take out a run, wrapped around a paint stick) with a foam block, then rubbing compound, then polishing compound (both from the 3M perfect-it line, it's GREAT), and then some nice wax. Looks great. It's special wax, though- normal wax will fuck up fresh paint... this stuff it made to go on fresh paint. Really looks great. I think it's called Presta Fast Wax. I LOVE it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Hey Serpent,

It wasn't clear which gun you use. Was it the FX3000? If I go with the FX1000, which tip should I get for bc/cc?

Also, what should I get if I decide to go for a primer tip?
 

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Hey Serpent,

It wasn't clear which gun you use. Was it the FX3000? If I go with the FX1000, which tip should I get for bc/cc?

Also, what should I get if I decide to go for a primer tip?
I have the FX300 HVLP. (the older series of the FX3000) Sharpe 248755 Finex FX300 HVLP Spray Gun (1.3mm)
I wish I had a smaller one actually. if you don't plan on doing cars soon I think the smaller one would be the best choice.
but I've never used one to know. I plan on buying one though. but for now, I use the larger gun with good results.

ask kevin or grasshopper on what tip is best. I'm don't have any other tip to experiment with. I would day though they will suggest a 1.4mm for a all around tip. though you might have to thin any primer a little bit more than normal. (which is perfectly ok to do)
 

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+1 on the 3" buffer.... I use a chicago pneumatic buffer/polisher kit. It was like 130 bucks. Works AWESOME. You do need a fairly large compressor to keep up with it, but it's amazing. I think it's like 1/3 horsepower, so it digs in pretty good.

I usually do 1200 or 1500 grit wetsand (or 1000 if i need to take out a run, wrapped around a paint stick) with a foam block, then rubbing compound, then polishing compound (both from the 3M perfect-it line, it's GREAT), and then some nice wax. Looks great. It's special wax, though- normal wax will fuck up fresh paint... this stuff it made to go on fresh paint. Really looks great. I think it's called Presta Fast Wax. I LOVE it.
everything I use is 3m something or other lol
for one it's the predominant product at the paint store. two, all the paint shops I know of use it or wizards waxes etc.

I also like 3m's imperial hand glaze. it's like a wax for fresh paint. but it lets it breath to dry unlike wax.
plus it's paint shop safe. (no wax or silicone)
3M Imperial Hand Glaze is a gentle moisturizer, especially for beautifying freshly painted surfaces!
 

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My day to day operations are done with 2 FX1000's and one FX3000. I have the .6, .8 and 1.0 tips for the FX1000 and my FX3000 is a 1.3. I use the FX3 for primer only. I have sprayed mini and micro flake with a 1.3 FX3000, but the pattern is a sporadic at best.

I use the .8 setup in the FX1 for almost everything. I use the 1.0 for opaque basecoats on large flat surfaces Harley outer fairings, bags, and gas tanks). I use the .6 for hard to reach areas when I'm doing candies and when I'm using HOK clear or any other extremely thin clearcoat where I need to keep track of build thickness in areas I can't machine polish (air ducts, gauge pods, etc) and can't afford a run or orange peel. Other than that, I almost instinctively go to the .8 in the FX1000. Has no problem with new style FX metallics when trying to match OEM metallic patterns, and once you get your air pressure and pattern figured out, it lays down a good 6 mil coat of clear when moving at a pretty fast pace (in my production environment, material build pace is important). On non-show jobs, using Nason's 496-00 Spot Panel Clear and the FX1 / .8 setup will get you a polishable build thickness in 2 coverage coats and 2 smoothing coats.

If I had to start over today with one Finex FX1000 with only one tip, I could do almost everything with the .8.
 

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As far as polishing goes, IF you are going to use the Nason clear (in weather between 55F and 85F, moderate humidity); Clear it with 2 standard coats and 2 smoothing coats, then let it sit for 12 hours minimum. Smooth any major problem areas (sags, runs or deep orange peel) with 2000g, then overall sand with 2500, then go to 3M's 3-stage Perfect-It system.

Paint Ink

Use the system by the number. Dont polish til the material is gone, the surface should always be a little greasy. Wipe the last stage off with a brand new microfiber cloth and you can't go wrong. I've won best paint of show with this system against OCC bikes, West Coast Chopper Bikes and lots of regionally known 'pro builders'.

As for polishers, in the pic is something I've never shown anyone before. My sportbike polishing kit consists of a converted right angle grinder on a homemade 'speed controller' (it's a household dimmer switch controlling the outlets in an outdoor conduit box) and some very specific foam and microfiber pads. This is the best way I've found to polish sportbike panels where big buffers can NOT get safely. Inside of air inlet ducts on sidepanels, on the arms of an upper fairing that likes to flop around, and on thin tail sections. This is the setup... if you'd like one, I can build something that's not so crude looking for beer, or money, or both. I stock the pads by the dozen, so if you end up needing any of them, just let me know.

This is prior to polishing... just shows what an FX1000 can do.

Tire Automotive tire Floor Wheel Automotive wheel system
 

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See? This is why phil (grashopr) is awesome.
 

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Here are two inner fairings that I completed today. Someone COULD do this with a full size Sata, but the FX's make it so easy, and the 3M products allow low buffer speed to keep from buffing through on ridges and tons of control in small areas. It may not look like a big deal, but this kind of stuff is way more technical than almost anything you will end up getting into on your sportbike.

Motor vehicle Vehicle Orange Auto part Car
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
Excellent, excellent stuff guys. Thank you so much.

One question, Grashopr. Do you go with such small tips because it atomizes a bit better than the larger ones. Looks like they recommend 1.3 or 1.4 for bc/cc. Also, I've always heard to stay away from Nason because or poor coverage, and because they don't stand up to UV very well. Would a 1.0 be better than a 0.8 for Dupont's Chromasystem?
 

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Tip size is determined by how much air flow you have. Just like trying to calculate what size fuel jets you need in a certain diameter of carbeurator, the amount of air you can put through the air cap of a paint gun determines how much material you need to feed into it to get proper atomization and to ensure that your material pool is wet enough to allow the reducer to bite into the surface, but dry enough that the surface doesn't distort from the air pressure or gravity (orange peel/sags/runs). I dont have a flow bench set up to measure actual volume for guns, so I just test them the old fashioned way; by spraying back to back to back, then doing it again at a different temperature. The FX1000 gives me results with the .8 VERY similar to my Sata MiniJet with a 1.1. I dont know for sure, but I'm assuming that the SataJet has better engineering to flow air better than the FX1000, but without a test bench, I can't say for sure. Anyways, the FX1000 with a 1.0 sprays similar to a 1.3 MiniJet, which gives me more build than I like putting down at one time. Which is why I stick with the .8 tip for nearly everything (other than primer of course). Basecoats, pearls, metallics, FX metallics, candies. It really does a superb job at all of them.



As far as the Nason Clear: I don't recommend using any products that I haven't used and tested. I have from a very good source that Nason's 496-00 and Dupont's 7600S are the same product repackaged, and from my testing, they seem to be identical in every way. I've swapped activators between the two and have done drying tests (time to polish, polish material useage, and haze holdout over a period of months) between the two on identical test tank panels and can't find a difference. Nason's color line is crap. I wouldn't paint lawn furniture with their basecoats and definitely not their candies. But that 496-00 is what I use on everything but nothing-but-show jobs. It's $103.70 for a gallon with activator and can be sprayed in as low as 25F and I've tested it to 112F (but I don't recommend it... you've got to move FAST!).
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
I'll most likely be spraying with a 28 glalon, 6.5hp compressor (max CFM of about [email protected]??PSI). I'm guessing a smaller tip will require less air?

I think I'm sold on the FX1000 with a 0.8 tip. Will consider ordering a larger tip for priming.

Grashopr, I see you didn't polish, but I'm guessing you did cut and buff? This isn't how the gun laid it out on it's own, is it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Forgot to add....

Thanks for saving me from myself. I was seriously considering plunking down $600.00 for a new sata jet 3000 gun. :spit
 

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This thread seems productive so I figured I'll keep it going.

I have decided to go with a Sharpe Finex 1000 with a .8 tip for BC/CC and 1.2-1.4 tip for Primer. That's what seems to be a good set up for my uses. I have yet to see any mention of air compressors or separators or anything like that so can anyone shine some light on the subject?
 

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If I remember correctly, the FX1 uses 7SCFM, so you will need to either get a compressor with a tank that has enough volume to maintain that for however long you are going to be spraying, or one with a compressor that can keep up with 7CFM for whatever size you are spraying. I have used a 5 gallon, 1.5hp craftsman air compressor before to do helmets and single parts. But at the shop I have an 80 gallon, 5hp upright with a piggyback'd 60 gallon supplimental upright tank for more volume. No matter what paint gun you get, you will need to get a compressor that can keep up with the gun's rated CFM and max inlet pressure for however long you plan on having the tr***** pulled.

As far as filters, buy the best you can afford. Harbor Freight filter/dryers will work, but the water trap push buttons are chincy. Spending $150 for a good filter dryer will last you forever, and will save your air tools as well as your paint jobs.
 

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If I remember correctly, the FX1 uses 7SCFM, so you will need to either get a compressor with a tank that has enough volume to maintain that for however long you are going to be spraying, or one with a compressor that can keep up with 7CFM for whatever size you are spraying. I have used a 5 gallon, 1.5hp craftsman air compressor before to do helmets and single parts. But at the shop I have an 80 gallon, 5hp upright with a piggyback'd 60 gallon supplimental upright tank for more volume. No matter what paint gun you get, you will need to get a compressor that can keep up with the gun's rated CFM and max inlet pressure for however long you plan on having the tr***** pulled.

As far as filters, buy the best you can afford. Harbor Freight filter/dryers will work, but the water trap push buttons are chincy. Spending $150 for a good filter dryer will last you forever, and will save your air tools as well as your paint jobs.
Basically all I want to be able to do is paint motorcycle fairings, preferably with the ability to do them all at the same time. Is a 17 gal 110v Morgan compressor a good choice?
 
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