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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so how do you guys wheelie? Throttle then slip in the clutch? Or do you just crack open your throttle and hold on?

Personally I rock both. Sitting down at 60 MPH, I can take it up to about 12, slip it in and then lay into the clutch and end up holding it up for 50-100 yards (until I run out of throttle in 2nd gear, still cant shift while I'm up). In first from 8k, I can crack the throttle and front will come up until the top of 1st gear (not too far at all).

I'm just starting to "bounce" it up in 2nd at 55-65. Stand on the pegs and push down on the forks, then crack it as it bounces back up. I can get it up like that, but I'm a little gun shy on holding it while I'm standing and usually drop it back down. That's how the guys I ride with do it. These are the guys with b***** bikes though, and they end up holding them up for a mile or more. ..


Anyone with good wheelie tips?

(oh, I cant wait to see the flame throwers out. . . yes, this is dangerous. . but so is just day to day riding)
 

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I've been riding for years (11+) And just got my dream scooter, a 929 last Sep.
Im playing with pulling the front end up while beeing carefull so I dont trash my bike.
Before my 88 600 CBR was too tired to wheelie. My fear is more beating the bike or blowing my landing. Im curiouse those of you that wheelie, how many wreck while getting good, and is it hard on the bike? I hear both sides.
While ur boasting give us all some useable advice, thanks.
 

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I run lower pressure on the rear tire if I'm screwing around at low speed, easier to balance. I clutch it up usually, power up only by accident on hard acceleration. rev to about 7-8k with clutch in then let it out slow, then fast. progressively. clutching seems to be easier on the drivetrain and it's definitely easier on the chain compared to snapping the throttle, but whether you can wheelie at all without putting strain on the transmission is doubtful. wet clutches are easy to change and last a good while so I'd rather put the extra wear on it.

I'm no expert, but I love cheap thrills.
 

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I'm not a stunter.. I'm learnin slowly, but not there yet.. I follow those guys pretty closely though, so I know the theory behind it and I know what they do to their bikes. Most people reccomend learning wheelies via clutch b/c it gets you into good habbits for the future, is easier and more predictable, and lets you ride them longer. Almost everyone that is serious about stunting has destroyed their bikes at some point or another, thats why so many of them have modded stunt bikes with crash cages, broken plastics, no plastics, 12 bars, fucked up tanks, etc.. If your serious, most of them would reccomend picking up a cheap thousand dollar broken up 600 to learn on and use for your stunting career. Chances are even if your just messin around, you're bound to fuck up at least once while tryin to balance them. If your lookin to learn slow shit and get REALLY good, then you should be changing the gearing on the bike you are using, and a hand brake for the rear cant hurt.

Wheelie tips from someone who has tried every method possible..

DISCLAIMER: I'm NOT a wheelie expert, I can get it up in first and maybe ride it out a hundred yards or so, I still have a hard time finding the balance point and what not. These are the steps I have been through and find work the best.. Just so happens its consistent with most of the advice real stunters will give you..

1. Body position - Straight arms, sit up and back. Important not to collapse your arms and fall over on the tank cause that will give you big problems when trying to pull it up, you'll just end up putting more pressure on the front making it more difficult.

2. Balance Point - If yo understand physics, then you understand that there is a point you can bring the bike up to at which it will stay there with no further accelertion and no further deceleration. This is the balance point. Most will tell you its the point when you FEEL like your going to tip over backwards or when you can JUST see the road over the front of the bike (but this would depend on your height).

3. COVER THE BACK BRAKE - When learning, always cover the back brake to bail you out in case you pass the balance point.

4. Throttle Control - Keeping it at the balance point once it is there takes throttle control. You'll have to flutter the throttle a lil bit to keep it up there at the BP. This is dangerous in first gear so be careful.

4. Stand-Ups - Many people, not everyone, but many people have trouble with sit downs first so they find it easier to ride out stand-ups.. If your tryin to learn standups first, it is reccomended to use staggered stance, right foot on rear peg, left front covering brake on front peg.

5. Take it slow - Dont push it, learn slow, especially if you are on a bike you dont want to wreck. I have heard many people say you shouldnt stunt until your motorcycle feels like a bicycle underneath you. You have to know exactly how much power it has and when it has it.

Heres a link I found helpful: Wheelie How-To
 

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Oh yea, I forgot about tire pressure.. Tire pressure is important too.. For slow shit, you want little tire pressure ( I have heard btwn 13 -15), for faster shit I have heard in the low 20's. I'm pretty sure, if i remem correctly its covered in the link i just put up..
 

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This topic is covered quite well in the stunter corner of the forum. Check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
njssli22 said:
most of them would reccomend picking up a cheap thousand dollar broken up 600 to learn on and use for your stunting career.
I have an F3 for that. . plastic on it is already f'd up. . only problem is, it wont come up without clutch work in 1st. . like sub 30 mph
 

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I've done it once on my current bike when I got on it too hard going up a hill. Scared of wrecking my only vehicle and a VFR isn't the easiest thing to wheelie although of course you can do it. Did it more on my 600rr but I could never do it with throttle alone, probably leaned too far forward which is natural under acceleration for me.

Maybe I should buy a crappy old 600 to thrash, I always thought it would be fun to get good at wheelies.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If I'm gonna do low speeds, I would love to get a wheelie bar for the F3 (Is that a 12 bar?) I should prolly get a cage too for when I drop it over. . . do these things require welding? or are tehy bolt on?
 

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Jeez, I can pull wheelies on my 500. It's not that hard!

I've heard that clutching is the best way(of course, this is the only way on a 500). I usually go ~15mph, pull the clutch, take the rpms up to about 6-7k and release the clutch aggressively. Works every time.

Just be sure to cover the rear brake, the front end hits a point where it comes up fast.
 

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f3's are pretty big for stunters so you shouldnt have a problem finding 12 bars and a cage for it, also if this bike is only going to be used for stuntin and wheelies, get some new sprockets, I've seen sprockets on these bikes that go up to a 70 tooth, yea thats a little extreme for just learning wheelies, just thought I would throw it in there so you can see that its crazy for the things you could do the the f3's also remember when you start going with the huge sprockets your going to start loosing top speed, but not really a big deal IMO for a stunt bike.
 

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Spektrum-SA1 are these REAL wheelies or just up and down??? not doubting your ability, just doubting my bike if you are able to bring them to the BP...anyways lets here a bit more cuz im impressed w/ the 500 and ashamed of my 600r
 

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I can pull them on my 500 and ride them a little while(not to long) but no where near BP, it does come up fast but not that high, Im sure your yzf600 will come up too, just get in higher RPM's. But yea, I don't see you going to BP on it with it being stock
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The F3 will come up to the BP stock in 1st gear with a little clutch work, I'm sure you can bring the FZ up, it's just a little scary, that's all. I can throttle up the F4i in 1st from 8k, and clutch it up in 2nd sitting or bounce it up in 2nd standing. the F4i will come to the BP in 1st and 2nd no problem.
 
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