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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My friend is getting some work on her 2006 Ninja 250 and was wondering what the normal going rate is for the following, the prices in parantheses are quotes a mechanic gave her:

Cleaning carbs: ($150)
Adjusting valves: ($90)
Removing wheel, mounting tire, balancing, etc: ($45/wheel)
Fork alignment: ($30)

I am not sure if these are good prices so I figured I'd ask the experts on this board what they would expect to pay. TIA
 

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My friend is getting some work on her 2006 Ninja 250 and was wondering what the normal going rate is for the following, the prices in parantheses are quotes a mechanic gave her:

Cleaning carbs: ($150)
Adjusting valves: ($90)
Removing wheel, mounting tire, balancing, etc: ($45/wheel)
Fork alignment: ($30)

I am not sure if these are good prices so I figured I'd ask the experts on this board what they would expect to pay. TIA
About one case of beer and two pizzas. Assuming I couldn't do it myself for some reason.
 

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If those prices involve her just bringing the bike in, getting the work done, then picking it up, that's actually very fair.

While I do all my own work, most motorcycle owners (who don't do their own work) don't realize some of the labor charge is from taking fairings / tank etc off to get to the parts being worked on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If those prices involve her just bringing the bike in, getting the work done, then picking it up, that's actually very fair.

While I do all my own work, most motorcycle owners (who don't do their own work) don't realize some of the labor charge is from taking fairings / tank etc off to get to the parts being worked on.
I understand, the work it takes to get to the problem is usually far greater than the time actually put into the problem. She already dropped the bike off, if she gives the OK he will fix it and she will pick it up when its done. Its not a bike dealer doing the work, just an independent mechanic.

The bike is definitely not running right. It has a horrible idling and throttle response/setting issue. The throttle has to be held at >2500 to keep the engine alive and has to be started with the choke on even when the engine is warm.
 

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Although that may be a "fair" price, and actually resonable by 'stealership" standards.

The question I would have , is how thorough is the job going to be, is their any warranty or satisfaction guarantee?

I own an independent motorcycle shop, so I have no quams at all about having a mechanic away from the stealerships doing the work. But there are plenty of "mechanics" that really are just parts changers, and not actually capable of doing the real work.

Good thorough job doing the carb clean, about 4 hours (working time)
With everything else off for the carb clean (although you do need to remove more parts to get to valves**coils, upper fairing, valve cover, loosen radiator**)--it would add approx 2 hours time to do it right, and actually adjust the valves, not just check them.
Tire change, any sportbike I can do front and rear in under 45 minutes, so $45 for one tire is a bit high. ( But I do charge $67.50 for the pair each, so??)
Aligning the forks?? why does it need this, and it can be a simple 5 minute job, if they are just slightly twisted in the triple clamps, or a major PIA if one is bent, ride hieghts are different or something of that nature

So my real question would be with the quality of the work, not the pricing.
 

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Actually I recommended this mechanic to KtecR. This mechanic has worked for the largest stealership in town for a while and then decided to leave and do business from his garage. I have taken several bikes to his place and every thime I was impressed with his integrity, because if something is not needed to be done, he will you tell you so. He lives on repeat customers
 

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well there you go, nothing is more reliable than satisfied customers.
I love referrals, customers come in with high expectations, and then you actually have to deliver--otherwise risk losing more than that one "new" customer. ( no I am not being sarcastic!)
Go get your bike fixed and be happy with the price.
 

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The price sounds pretty fair. It's a PITA to get to the carbs on those things. The actual proper way is to remove the rear tire, pull the airbox, then dismount the carbs. While it is possible to finagle them in and out without pulling the airbox, the stretching of the carb boots and airbox boots can cause them to become damaged, or lead to damage later.

To help prevent this in the future, turn the fuel supply valve off, and run the bike for a little while - but not until the carbs run dry. You want the level of the gas left in the float bowls to be below the pilot jets, That will keep them from becoming gunked up, something that's become an all too common problem since the introduction of ethanol into pump gas.
 

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That sounds about right for a dealer...or a case of beer, large c+p pizza and triple order of wings for the boys to come over for a few hours...
 
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