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Discussion Starter #81 (Edited)
Very nice project and great writeup!

How much weight was added? Does the bike handle any different? Any plans/is there room to add a small intercooler?

10.5 AFR at WOT is excessively rich, did the tuner try leaning it out some and see if it makes more power safely?

I told him I wanted 10.5:1. More fuel = safer. Keep in mind it's pushing about 8-9psi, more than I originally shot for so being on the richer side is not a bad idea.

The subaru community generally tuned to the 10.5 mark at peak torque, so this is what I went off, that is what my Subie was tuned to.

If you're firmiliar with NA engines, yes, 10.5 is excessively rich, but for turbo applications, that is a good safe place to be.



weight, it added around 20lbs at most, I would imagine. Cant say for sure as I didnt weight the componants. It is a bit more front heavy with weight added before center of the frame, and weight removed from behind center of the frame (header sections, muffler...)

It still handles very good, but you have to be careful with the throttle, it had a stuttery hesitation between 4-6k RPMS which can easily be avoided with driving pattern.

Yesterday I had to be careful coming into the onramp, i rode first gear light, then started to wail on second, the front end got squirly, backed off, added a little, squirly again, 'course the road wasnt perfect, but it does have alot of power to used to, I was over 110 by the end of the ramp and only stayed on it a little longer to 130. It doesn't even seem real to be going that fast, because of how quickly it gets there.

135 by the end of a quarter mile from dead stop with a poor poor start kinda shows the amount of power this thing makes.
 

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Hey Tarkin believe it or not that td04 suby turbo that your using is very well suited for the r6 ive been crunching compressor maps over the last couple days finding the optimum turbo which seams to be the gatrrett gt2252 but i just checked out the td04 you are using and at 16000rpm on the r6 it flows right in the "tits zone" of that turbo's compressor map. Just thought you might be interested heres link to map ill plot out the zones for the r6 when i get back to my house so you can see it. http://www.wallpaperinstaller.com/scooby/13T.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #88
he hasn't been active here since June 08 people......
Yeah, well, I still enjoy the praise :)

She's still going good, few oil issues here and there, weather is breaking and I'm going to have those sorted out with a remote-access shut-off valve on the bulkhead in place of my check-valve. Sometimes when you try and make foolproof systems, the only fool is you :lao

So, I'm going the manual route to prevent oil backflow, as long as that works out, she'll have noooo problems.

My brother is working on getting his 00' gsxr 600 back together, just had the head port and polished, anxious to see what that does, we may have another turbo project around the corner for that one...
 

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Well Im super late on this thread but...

You did an incredible job with this R6. That is fucking awesome! Mad props to you and your friends for doing it all by yourselves and customizing everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Still around guys, I reworked my oil sump system this spring and it is FLAWLESS now!

No oil issues whatsoever! Going to weld up a solid pressure tube between the turbo and plenum this winter, rubber hose just expands... Thinking like 1.5in diameter or less, should improve throttle response and lag.

I have some a suprise too. You actually get to hear what it sounds like!


Walkaround
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4mWxBsf6wQ

Burnout! Old tire :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M56j_z7qQg0
 

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Hey guys, I'm planning on under taking the same project over the fall/winter this year. Does anyone know off the top of their heads any significant design differences between the early 2000 models (which it seems most of you installed the turbos on) and an 07 model (my bike) that I should take into consideration? I appreciate any feedback, thanks!
 

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I'm not looking for an insane amount of power out of my turbo (prefer not to wheelie every gear lol) would going with Garrett GT2554R be a better option than the TD04L-13 ?
 

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Discussion Starter #93
is it an 07 R6S or R6.

The R6 compression is higher, and fitment may be tougher, there isnt as much room in the front lower farings.
 

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Couple questions.

I am already in the process of doing this to my 2008. and i wanted to know if im gonna need a fuel pump or if the stock one can be tuned with the pcIII. i am using a garret t25. and also with my compression ratio being 13/1 i believe if im gonna be safe around 7-8 psi?
 

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Discussion Starter #96
I am already in the process of doing this to my 2008. and i wanted to know if im gonna need a fuel pump or if the stock one can be tuned with the pcIII. i am using a garret t25. and also with my compression ratio being 13/1 i believe if im gonna be safe around 7-8 psi?
I didn't change my fuel system at all, just tuned with a pc3.

As for the rest of your questions, I really have no idea. You'll find out soon enough I suppose. Good luck.
 

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I'm back

Well, I'm getting back on the turbo horse again. I just dropped off my intake and exhaust manifolds to be adjusted after that coated and then it's time to start bolting stuff on for mock assembly. I guess winter is good for something...

Tarkin - glad to see you're still up and running.
 

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Discussion Starter #98 (Edited)
Well, I'm getting back on the turbo horse again. I just dropped off my intake and exhaust manifolds to be adjusted after that coated and then it's time to start bolting stuff on for mock assembly. I guess winter is good for something...

Tarkin - glad to see you're still up and running.
Did you plumb your oil system yet?

Electric Oil Feed and Scavenge Pumps

DON'T CHEAP!!!!
Buy their oil pump, fittings and check valves!!!! THEY WORK!!! Also the turbo timer is a great addition!!

I used their smallest pump, works fantastic.

Also when tap your oil pan, TAP THE REAR RIGHT CORNER. As close to the edge as you can get with enough room on the inside to add a fitting.

Use a 3/8 NPT to -6AN fitting.

I used -6AN and was fine, some say this is TOO small for an oil drain, but we do not have the luxury of space, it has to work. And it does.

When you tap the pan, with the AN fitting, on the inside of the pan, you will want a few things.

Visit lowes. Buy some 3/8 copper tubing, a foot is plenty. Also, get a flare tool, and a 3/8 FPT to 3/8 Flare fitting. On the inside of the pan you will have a flare fitting with a copper tube, bent UPWARDS. The oil pump chain and gear hang low, but there is enough room to have the copper tube go between the case and the oil gear. Take a good look around before you drill your oil pan.

This setup allows for NO OIL to return back into your line after it has been drained. This was a major issue for me. With the copper tubes outlet ABOVE the oil line, no oil can return to your turbocharger! HOORAY!!!

IT works fantastic. I'll try to draw a picture of what I mean since I didn't take any like a dummy. I should have, but I didn't!

edit: BAD DRAWING!!
 

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nice

might want to check those welds on your header pipe. no master welder did those. i could have welded those like that with one arm.. not trying to be an ass but i think those welds are not going to hold up. they were to cold and sloppy.. just trying to look out for ya.
should have taken the header off the bike to weld up after tacking, even someone steady would have done a crappy job leaving it on the bike. First rule of welding is getting comfortable and working like a gentleman. cleaned up decent, as long you have good penetration and low undercut you can be sloppy just more work cleaning/grinding between passes.
 

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Im surprised that youre not blowing oil passed the seals having the oil drain pointing upwards.

10.5 is really friggin rich especially on that teeny turbo and 9 psi. You should be at 12.5 at the most.
 
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