[killernoodle]

You know, the little thing on the clutch housing that actuates the clutch when the cable on it is pulled? I fabbed up a new one today with a slightly longer arm and it COMPLETELY transforms the bike. Clutch lever pull is MUCH easier, and the clutch is far easier to modulate at slow speeds, it feels less grabby and easier to control just how much clutch you're getting. Friction zone is much broader. In essence, this is probably how the clutch SHOULD feel.

Now, the one that is pictured here is just a simple prototype v2.0 (the other hole is roughly at the stock location), but I was thinking about fabbing up a bunch for all you guys. This involves either taking in a core and modifying it (PITA), or buying a bunch at once from Mr. Cycles, modifying them, and having you guys simply buy complete ones from me. I seem to like this idea better, but what would you guys think? Price would probably be about $25-30 each, considering a new one is $10 from mr cycles + shipping and each of them is hand made and welded, then painted afterwards and put back together with stainless bolts probably.

So what do you guys think?

Pics are up, dont worry about the crappy welds, I made V1.0 and had to cut it and weld it back because it was way too long, so its not very pretty right now. Finished versions will look OEM I hope. Also, it wont stick out from the bike quite so far, I oriented it incorrectly when re-installing it but havent taken it off and put it on the right tooth yet.

 

[scott17]

Git er dun!

 

[Jim Karam]

Sounds like you should count me in, also.

 

[jcaesar]

I love home re-engineered shit, I'd be willing to give it a shot.

 

[segue00]

Make it an "adjustable" length! I'd buy the first one.

[edit] I love it when ideas in this forum come to fruition. hatyo

 

[killernoodle]

Adjustable eh? I might just find a way to put multiple holes in it. or maybe some kind of sliding mechanism? We have to keep this simple, I only have simple tools, no CNC machine. I have a big drill press, a metal band saw, a big grinder and wire wheel, a nice Mig welder, lots of hand tools ect. If you guys come up with a better design, I'm all ears.

Not to mention, making it have lots of adjustable parts means more things to fail, which is not good on a clutch lever

I'm gonna ride around with it for a few more days to make sure its a good compromise, but so far its dandy.

 

[segue00]

Wish I had the time to draw you up one, but I'm swampped with these friggin' robots!isson

 

[tackle_me_2]

Broader friction zone? I'm in!

 

[jim schmidt]

the longer actuator lever may cause the clutch not to fully disengage. This needs to be part of your design equation. If the clutch does not fully disengage it will lead to burnt and slipping clutches.

 

[ENGLISH MIKE]

Sounds Pretty Cool When Do You Need Some Cash !!!! You Might Be Really Onto Somthing !! Let Me Know How Your Test's Go !!

 

[streetfighterfz6]

the longer actuator lever may cause the clutch not to fully disengage. This needs to be part of your design equation. If the clutch does not fully disengage it will lead to burnt and slipping clutches.

+1

Once it's all looked over and bullet proof I might just be interested. Definatly keep all of us updated.

 

[segue00]

the longer actuator lever may cause the clutch not to fully disengage. This needs to be part of your design equation. If the clutch does not fully disengage it will lead to burnt and slipping clutches.

That's why I'm asking for an adjustable design. This will give the FZ6 a 3 way adjustment feature. One at the lever, one at the cable, and one at the slave.
Also, since everyone's feel and preference may be different, the slave will also give the necessary adjustment for clutch feel. A quick guesstimate gives me a 1-1.5 inches of maximum length adjustment maximum from stock slave setting.

As for not fully disengaging, the side effect will be grinding the gears, not burning the clutch 'cuz it will always be engaged.

 

[Jimundascores]

n00b question: I'm not following this very well. I don't see how it would, but I heard mention that this would make for a wider friction zone.

True?

I'm completely used to the millimeter friction zone now but wonder what a normal clutch would be like.

 

[Poutanen]

I'd take one if it had a couple holes... maybe each hole 1/4" further than stock???

Aaron

 

[segue00]

n00b question: I'm not following this very well. I don't see how it would, but I heard mention that this would make for a wider friction zone.

True?

I'm completely used to the millimeter friction zone now but wonder what a normal clutch would be like.

Psssst. If you're used to it, it's normal. This mod is for people that can't adapt to the FZ6 clutch. You don't need it if you're satisfied with your clutch.

The clutch lever slave is being pulled by a cable.

The longer the lever, less force is necessary to move a load, but it increases the travel also.

A longer lever travel gives a finer resolution to the movement. You will have finer control at the expense of travel. The end result will be, "More finger action to move in and out of the friction zone."
I think that's a quotable quote, right there! nfloor

 

[Jimundascores]

"More finger action to move in and out of the friction zone."

ROLF. THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID.

I'd buy one if it's adjustable. I'm used to the millimeter friction zone, but would prefer a little more for better control.

Thx, segue, for the explanation... assuming I understood you correctly. :squid

 

[biker6]

I'm in if you can include some really good instructions on how to remove the stock one and install yours; I just went out to the garage and looked at it and I'm left kind of scratching my head.

By the way, good one segue00.

 

[bear8b]

I am in

 

[killernoodle]

the longer actuator lever may cause the clutch not to fully disengage. This needs to be part of your design equation. If the clutch does not fully disengage it will lead to burnt and slipping clutches.

It fully disengages. I tested this with the bike on the center stand, in first gear with the clutch pulled in the wheel does not move.

I'm gonna keep this setup for a week and see how I like it. And guys, too much adjustability isnt the best thing, it doesnt take much more leverage to make things much better. Having an inch of adjustability on the slave lever pretty much doubles the leverage and can really throw stuff out of whack. Not to mention there would be a lot of binding on the cable housing right there because it would go off to the side so much.

And I was used to the friction zone too guys, I had no real problems with it. I did have problems with sitting in traffic and having my hand numb from holding the clutch in forever. That is the main reason I'm doing it. The fact that the friction zone is broader is definitely a plus though.

To take the stock one off, it would require you to have to have a special tool to get that top ring thingy off. It spreads it slightly so you can lift it out of the groove its sitting in.

I'm gonna work on this a little more when I get back from work.

 

[Jim Karam]

Slightly off topic, but I just started my bike on the center stand with the clutch in, BUT my rear wheel DID start turning, albeit not very fast. Should I worry?