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"Good, you are just one step of being an outstanding rider..."

I know I'm good.

Some of those questions were tricky. They weren't really stupid....you just either had to know them or the other answers will "sound" good to you.

For example the question about the choke.

The answer was "it enriches air/fuel mixture". By enriching the air/fuel mixture, it helps the bike to start.

I bet some people were confused about gyros and centrifugal force.
 

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Ride.
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Answered without reading the thread first.

But that test is fucked up. Some of the questions have no correct answer listed, and some of them have more than one answer listed.

 

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jetblack said:
What's the point if you can't see the "correct" answers?

maybe some people like to have fun goofin around?
 

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I was told to stay on a 50cc-100cc scooter :(

Some of the questions don't apply to me, like California and lane slitting, I havn't a clue about that...
 

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Here's how I answered, and why.

Not saying this is all 100% correct, but this is likely the "best" way to answer each question, given the options (which are very poor, in many cases).

What bike would you buy?

The big one that I really like.

The one where I can have my feet planted flat on the ground.

The one that would be comfortable for me to handle.
This is a silly question, especially for an experienced rider. However, C covers both A and B, so C is what I picked.

What is the choke?

A device that helps start the bike.

A device that gives the motor more power.

A device that enriches the gas/air mixture.
Both A and C are correct. However, A is only true because of C.
During the pre-ride check you should

Check the oil level , fuel level , valve clearance

Check the oil level, fuel level, air pressure of the tires and the chain tension.

Check the air pressure of the tires, the oil level and make sure the fuel is “on”.
Its a good idea to check all of them. :lao But who the hell would check the valve clearance every time. And if it turns out your fuel isn't in the "on" position, you'll learn soon enough before it has the ability to develop into a dangerous issue, duh.
Therefore, B.
What would be an acceptable average for the tire pressure (front/rear)

33/35 psi.

35/33 psi.

40/43 psi.
While its gonna vary depending on bike, tire, conditions, etc. this is a simple process of elimination. C is simply too high of pressure to be correct. Whereas B gives you a higher pressure in the front than the rear, which normally isn't ideal. Therefore, A.
Regarding the stopping power of the front/rear break, which one would be the most realistic statement

Front 60%-Rear 40%.

Front 50%-Rear 50%.

Front 85%-Rear 15%.
What kind of a bike is it? B definately isn't correct. C is correct if its a sportbike.
When applying the brakes in a motorcycle, we should

Apply first the rear brake and then the front brake.

Apply first the front brake and then the rear brake.

Apply front and rear at the same time.
Believe it or not (and disagree if you want as well :twofinger ) A is correct. By applying the rear brake gently, you are transferring your bike's weight forward, and onto the front tire, where you can then apply the front brake for optimum stopping traction.
If you lock the front tire at speed the bike will

Stop abruptly and you will go over the bars.

Wash out to one side or the other.

Skid and come to a stop.
It will do none of the above if you act CORRECTLY and release and re-apply the front brake immediately. This is one of those questions with 2 of many possible answers listed. B or C could both happen, depending on your speed at the time. However, I do believe the creator of the test was looking for B.
In a sudden emergency, you will apply the brakes

Suddenly and decisively to avoid hitting the obstacle.

Delicately and swerving at the same time.

Progressively.
A -- as long as its done progressively! LOL Therefore, C.
B could be correct though, too, depending on where you are at, and if swerving will pose a potential danger or not. And if you are PROGRESSIVELY and properly using the brakes.
To steer the bike at high speed into a corner you

Push the handlebar in the direction contrary to the turn.

Lean into the corner.

Turn the handlebar into the direction of the turn.
Aren't A and C saying the same thing? By pushing on the handlebar contrary to the turn, aren't you pushing left to go right? That's how answer A reads to me. Which is the same thing as C says, which is turning the bars into to the turn.
I answered A, simply because B cannot be correct, since it takes steering input of some kind to initiate a turn. And C is obviously NOT correct.
The counter steering input generates a force called

Hemispherical.

Centrifugal.

Gravitational.
What the fuck is "hemispherical" force?
And what does gravitational force have to do with anything?
When taking a corner and leaning the bike at high speed, what do you do with your body?

You lean with the bike.

You lean into the turn.

You lean to the other side to balance the bike.
Leaning with the bike, and leaning into the turn are the same thing. WTF. C is definately not correct. But looking at B, if you lean into the turn, but aren't leaning as far as the bike, that isn't correct either. And A means you are only leaning with the bike, and not any further, so that isn't necessarily correct either. But B gives you a more definate effect than A does, so I picked B.
Which one increases the stability of the bike at speed

Centrifugal force.

Gyroscopic effect.

Acceleration.
B does, but C also can.
B applies in every situation, though.
The proper way of taking a high speed turn is

Come into it as fast as possible, look into the turn and counter-steer.

Apply the brakes and keep braking into the turn as you look into the turn.

Slow down before the turn, look into the turn and counter-steer.
B is a technique that can be used if you're racing (trail braking), however, this test seems to be geared toward street riding, therefore C.
When taking a slow speed turn (3 to 5 miles per hour)

You lean with the bike.

You stay straight and only lean the bike into the turn.

You lean the bike into the turn and yourself towards the outside of the turn.
B or C. However, though C is a better answer, it could also be interpreted as incorrect if you lean TOO FAR, therefore are leaned over past the point of being perpendicular to the ground.
In a high speed turn which force is the most critical?

Centrifugal force.

Gravity.

Momentum.
Momentum -- if you want to win the race!:neener But centrifugal force is what's keeping the tires on the ground.
If during a high speed turn you lean your body into the turn, the bike will

Gain traction.

Become unbalanced.

Turn faster.
A and C. However, A will allow C, therefore, I answered C.
The best and safest technique to stabilize a bike during high speed cornering is

Do not touch the brakes at all.

Slightly drag the rear brake.

Drag the front brake.
B or C done incorrectly could fuck you up. A would be a safe answer, but isn't doing anything to increase (or decrease) stability. Therefore, I believe B is correct, because the front will easily wash out if you try C.
Increasing your speed in the middle of a turn will

Increase the radius of the turn.

Make the bike slide out of the turn.

Decrease the radius of the turn.
Believe it or not, C.
However, B could also be true, if you're already at the limit of traction. LOL
The most important difference between a 2 cylinder and a 4 cylinder motorcycle (of comparable size) is

Power output in the 4 cylinder motorcycle kicks in harder than in a 2 cylinder. bike.

Fuel economy in the 2 cylinder is greater than in the 4 cylinder.

The 2 cylinder motorcyle pollutes less than the 4 cylinder motorcycle.
Who gives a fuck? Its gonna depend solely on the manufacturer.
I, however, picked A.
You entered a blind turn up in a canyon road. Right when you are at the apex (committed),
you see right in front of you a patch of loose gravel…

You do not touch the throttle nor the brakes and try to ride it through.

You try to swerve (right or left) to avoid it.

You try to slow down (braking) and swerve to avoid the patch.
B could take you toward a potentially deadly hazard, and C is going to increase your chance of a wash-out. Gravel is safe to ride through, keeping all things constant, as long as you don't panic. A.
What does “trail braking” mean?

Braking in the middle of the turn.

Dragging the brakes to the apex of the turn.

Braking hard before the turn.
No explaination needed on this one. B is correct, the rest are wrong definitions of the term.
You are riding up in the canyons. A fellow motorcyclist coming your way “taps the palm of his left hand on top of his helmet”. What is he trying to tell you?

Slow down dangerous turn ahead.

Slow down, police ahead.

Speed up, road is clear ahead.
Again, B is correct. The others are incorrect meanings of the gesture.
When “down shifting” a short (and very quick) on/off twist of the throttle is applied (this action is called: blipping). Why?

Because it sounds really cool.

To keep the engine running.

To match the engine to the road speed.
A is the squidly answer. B means you have a problem with your bike. Even if you didn't know the correct answer, you should be able to determine that C is the most logical.
When riding in town, what is the most common motorcycle accident?

Being rear ended at a stop sign or red light.

Crashing into a “left turning” vehicle.

Crashing at an intersection.
Where is "getting run off the road by some asshat cager"?
B is the most common, I believe.
If a bike doing 60 miles per hour needs 138 ft to come to a complete stop, how many feet will a bike need doing 30 miles per hour?

69 ft.

28 ft.

75 ft.
Your braking distance is affected inversely by your speed.
You can also picture the scenario in your head, and determine that 30 mph is very slow, and that 28 ft. is plenty of time to come to a stop.
The most common problem that car drivers have with motorcyclist is

They can’t judge the speed of the motorcyclist.

They don’t see the motorcyclist.

They expect them to yield.
That cagers don't fucking pay attention?
I think C is funny. Yeah, I have to yield to you, and you automatically have the right of way, simply because you're in a car and I'm on a bike?
I answered A, since I believe its the most related the the "left turning car" accident.
When riding on the freeway, which is safer?

Ride at the same speed as traffic.

Ride slighter slower than traffic.

Ride slighter faster than traffic.
C, of course, or in other words "get the fuck away from those idiots as fast as you can!!"
Is it legal in California to split lanes on the freeway?

No.

Yes, between lane 1 and 2.

Yes, between any lanes.
A is not correct. And C allows too many unsafe variables. Therefore, B is the accepted method.
When carrying a passenger, what aspect of your motorcycle performance will degrade the most?

Braking distance.

Acceleration.

Turning speed.
Degrade the most. A, and even if you're on a teeny weeny underpowered bike, A becomes a safety issue, whereas B generally does not.
If when taking a high speed turn you start to “slide” sideways, you should:

Brake immediately.

Straighten the bike (reducing lean angle).

Roll off your throttle slightly.
A means you crash, you're already sliding, why would you want to make your bike slide more?

B would mean you exerted some magical power on the bike. LOL
C will make your tire regain grip, so this was my answer, but could also result in a highside. No real good answer here.
You stop at a street signal (with left arrow) waiting to make a left turn. The signal cycles twice but does not detect you and the arrow stays red. You are stuck waiting. What do you do?

Switch to the lane on the right and go straight.

Keep waiting until a car comes behind you and tr****** the sensor.

Make the left turn (with red arrow) when safe.
I thought it was common knowledge to know that you can legally go on red after 2 complete traffic light cycles.
I guess not.
In WI, there is now a law that states that a motorcyclist must be stopped for at least 45 seconds, and can then proceed when its clear.
If you are taking a turn at high speed, how many degrees can you lean your bike before loosing grip? (in optimal conditions)

35 degrees.

57 degrees.

45 degrees.
I'm assuming they're looking for the "safe" answer here, of 45 degrees.
What is the most important technique when riding a motorcycle?

Constant awareness.

Keeping safe distance from moving objects.

Checking the rear view mirrors often.
A includes both B and C.
In the middle of a decreasing-radius right-hand turn, you will need to:

Put more pressure on the left handlebar.

Put more pressure on the right handlebar.

Roll off the throttle.
Well, if we remember what counter steering is, we would know that more pressure on the right handlebar would help us to tighten our right hand turn.
If you answered C, that means you weren't looking through the turn properly as you entered it, and you're gonna need to do B anyway.




I know that at leas one of these answers is incorrect, according to the test creator, considering my result stated "you are one step away......". But I can assure you, I am correct on the technical questions.
 

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If a bike doing 60 miles per hour needs 138 ft to come to a complete stop, how many feet will a bike need doing 30 miles per hour?

69 ft.

28 ft.

75 ft.






some of you might know this already, but when you double your speed, you increase your stopping distance by 4 times mathematically ... so the answer should be 34.5
 

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I like this thread. Despite the questions that are complete "rubbish" :lao

And now, to dispute some site members' answers. :twofinger
modette said:
I'm no technician so I assume it is only "a", to help start the bike.
A is the result, and is correct. But then how do you explain what option C says? Hmm, is that not correct? And can A exist without C? Nope.
modette said:
I was told at the ERC class to apply both at the same time. However I mainly use the front and then the rear.
So, you're gonna apply the front brake, therefore taking weight off of the rear, and then try to make the rear brake effective? Its not gonna be once you've lifted the rear nearly off the ground by applying the front brake first. Getting the weight of the bike transferred to the tire in which you are using to stop the bike is the correct way.

modette said:
Yes, you could go over the bars "stoppie".
No you can't. A sliding tire means you have lost traction, therefore not having enough stopping power to do a "stoppie".
modette said:
I always do "a" and "b"...this is where I am not sure what "high speed" means..........
I'm not sure if you are correct or not, since I am pretty sure the creator of the test worded option A incorrectly. The way the answers are worded, A and C mean the same thing, therefore B could be the correct answer, as long as you've already initialized the turn.
modette said:
Is this Centrifugal? I have no idea nor did I care what force is used...LOL
.....I have no idea, I admit it...who cares what force controls the stability of the bike at high speeds....
If you understand what your bike is doing, you will better be able to understand how to make it do what you want.

I put "c" here, I have leaned my body into a 140mph corner and not become unbalanced...and your not going to gain anymore tractiont hen what the road/tire has to offer just from leaning.[/quote]Actually, by leaning off the bike further, you are now not requiring the bike itself to lean over as far, therefore increasing your tires' available traction limit.
modette said:
Is this a racing question becaus eI have no idea, other then not to touch either brakes, I woudl think touching them or draging them would cause the bike to "maybe" become unstable if we are talking in the triple digits here.
Yes, this applies mostly when you are trying to go as fast as possible. "not using the brakes" would be the safe answer. Why risk fucking up a perfectly good turn by applying one of the brakes?:beer
modotte said:
I don't know as I do not ride to the limits on the street. It seems your radius would stay the same unless you force the tire to slide some then making you turn faster.
Accellerating will lift the front of the bike. While leaned over into a turn, that "lifting" action is actually causing the nose of the bike to point further toward the inside of the turn. Therefore, decreasing your radius.
modette said:
I picked "a", because I figured that is what they wanted to hear. However as I do not ride to my limit I would either increase my turn or decrease it. If thje gravel was all the way across the road I would just try and slow as much as possible before enterring the gravel and then not touching the throttle till I was through it. I use my brakes in corners *shrug*
You are only increasing your risk by trying something as erratic as swerving (potentially into a very hard object, or completely changing your line, putting you in danger) or braking (potentially while already on some gravel).
I picked "b", it means slow down...
Actually, pushing the palm of your hand toward the ground in an up and down motion means slow down. The tap of the helmet means there's a cop ahead. Although, as long as the rider doing the signaling gets their point across in an understandable fashion, then the hand signal has served its purpose, and interpreting it as meaning "slow down" ultimately saves you from getting a ticket from that cop thats up ahead.
I picked "c", but really never have done this and really don't know why you would on the road. I guess this is a sport bike only deal.
I would actually say "b" and "c"...then again who am I to say!!How are you going to be able to do B (your goal) without first doing C?
 

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Always apply both brakes at once, did you ever happened to think: " ok there is a car cutting me off but I'm aplying the brakes progressively, ok rear first so I brake 15 % and stupidly holding the main brakes, ok then use the front, BAM !!! Darwin-1 rider-0
 
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