[claudenolen]

I just removed the rear wheel and took it down to a shop to have a new tire slapped on.

When I re-installed the wheel, I noticed that it doesn't seem to spin as freely.

Everything appears to be installed correctly... the brakes, the alignment, chain slack, the inserts. I'm wondering if the torque on the axle nut is too high. I have a pdf version of a service manual for an '04 FZ, as well the owner's manual for my bike (mine is an '05). Both state that the nut's torque is supposed to be 87 ft lb. I used a Snap-On torque wrench to do the job, and I feel pretty confident that it is accurate. I took it for a test ride, and it seemed fine; but it still doesn't spin as freely as I remembered it did before.

Is this torque too high? Maybe a misprint? I suppose it's always possible that I'm just being a little obsessive.

 

[MrVvrroomm]

How's the chain slack?

 

[killernoodle]

Take the chain off and spin it, and put it on and spin it. Maybe it is just more drivetrain friction?

Anyways, I dont think it matters much.

 

[claudenolen]

Chain slack is is at the bottom end of the spec, but it doesn't seem to be tight by any means.

I don't think it has to do with the chain or drivetrain resistance, because before I reach full torque on the nut, the wheel spins like it used to.

This drives me bonkers, because we're not talking about alot of parts here. Plus, I have worked as a professional motorcycle mechanic; and this is not the most complicated task I have had to do. Maybe my torque wrench is out of whack.

 

[Binary Jay]

When you took the wheel off did you grease the bearings again, some of the grease might have gotten lost?

 

[claudenolen]

I did grease the bearings. In fact, I just noticed a glob of green Bel-Ray on the back of my hand (at least, I hope that's what that is).

Well... I've had the wheel off and on about five times. Each time, everything was groovy until I went to 87 ft lbs on the God nut. So, I backed the torque off a bit, and it all seems normal. Until I discover otherwise, I'm going with the mis-calibrated torque wrench theory. Truth be told, 87 ft lbs sounds like an awful high torque value anyway.

If it's still eating at me, I might have another set of trained eyes take a look at it. Sometimes you discover that your brain has managed to ignore some crazy mistake.

 

[killernoodle]

87ftlbs? Jesus christ on a pogo stick, is that what it says in the manual? I just tighten it to like 60 maybe, with threads that fine on a nut that big I dont think it is a problem.

Yeah, you might be binding the bearings up with 87 foot pounds.

 

[nig]

I love torque specs. You want it to spin more freely tighten it less. Beyond that, if it makes you feel better, cotter pin or safety wire.

 

[claudenolen]

I was looking for some safety wire in my box. It's a shame I don't have any around. I've got the nifty safety wire twist pliers.

It is sort of a wonder why Yamaha doesn't stick a circlip on there.

 

[WISPER]

I thought the rear axle was 76ftlb?? I'll check my manuel when I get home this morning.

 

[claudenolen]

I thought the rear axle was 76ftlb?? I'll check my manuel when I get home this morning.

Please do. Unless my eyes are playing tricks, the two sources I have indicate 87 ft lb.

 

[jat1993]

My service manual states 87 ft lb or 120Nm. Too be honest I just usually tighten mine until my front wheel just barely starts to lift off the ground. (with the bike on the centerstand of course.) I haven't had any problems yet. (I have a small torque wrench that doesn't go up to 87 ft lbs.)

 

[Magseal]

excess grease will cause excess drag, at least until it expells out what it doesn't need. Relate it to each ball or roller pushing through a wave of grease much like your snow shovel when you push snow. seems much harder when there's alot of snow huh? The excess grease will cause a slight overtemp of the bearing until it's worked the excess grease out. On a bike application, not likely a serious problem. on helicopters, (my experiences) which is where it's critical, different story.
I myself follow manuals religiously (part of my job)and if it says 87ft/lbs..... it's 87 ft/lbs....as long as your confident your TQ wrench is accurate, thats where I'd put it and let the bearing find it's happy place eventually.

 

[streetfighterfz6]

How about you ride your bike and not worry about it, just because your wheel doesn't spin a revolution or 2 more as it used to it won't kill you. When I put on my new race chain it spun MUCH slower and less revolutions but it didn't make mee feel as though it was the end of the world.

 

[kevinmroczko]

excess grease will cause excess drag, at least until it expells out what it doesn't need. Relate it to each ball or roller pushing through a wave of grease much like your snow shovel when you push snow. seems much harder when there's alot of snow huh? The excess grease will cause a slight overtemp of the bearing until it's worked the excess grease out. On a bike application, not likely a serious problem. on helicopters, (my experiences) which is where it's critical, different story.
I myself follow manuals religiously (part of my job)and if it says 87ft/lbs..... it's 87 ft/lbs....as long as your confident your TQ wrench is accurate, thats where I'd put it and let the bearing find it's happy place eventually.

I am going to have to agree. I always have to follow the manual. It's part of my job too. My experience is also related to helicopters more than motorcycles, but it makes sense to me to follow the manual.
On the other hand, I remember reading a while ago that someone found that the "Q" value for the bolts that hold the frame sliders was wrong in the manual. So, if if really bothers you, I'd get it looked at.

 

[KevinTheCake]

87ftlbs? Jesus christ on a pogo stick...

I agree, 87ft/lbs is just this side of stretching out the threads. Take a standard length wrench and tighten until it stops. Dont use a cheater bar or anything. It wont move.

 

[claudenolen]

MYSTERY SOLVED!

The shop that installed the tire managed to lose one of the internal spacers. This spacer served to keep the external spacer from squeezing down into the bearing. If you look on page 4-11 of the service manual, it's the collar (item #1).

I accept a portion of the blame, because I was the one who put the wheel back on the bike. I made the assumption that they returned all the parts that I gave them. I'll not make that mistake again.

Kudos to the Yamaha shop that figured this out (Texas Motor Sports in Killeen TX).

 

[MyNewRD]

Speaking of all this tire stuff, I have a dificulty that maybe you guys can help me with. Every time I try to tighten the rear axle, the adjuster slips out the end of the swing arm. Any advice on techniques?

 

[FZ1-KEP]

I believe fraggle had a solution to this problem. I dont remember where I saw it, but its here somewhere. I forgot to remember it :lao

 

[fraggle1]

Yeah, after you set the adjusters, put a wrench or a rolled up shop rag at the chain/sprocket junction on the bottom. Rotate the rear wheel forward, and it should get pulled in between the sprocket teeth and the chain. That'll take the slack out of the chain and pull the axle tight against the adjusters while you torque it.

Or maybe it's easier to put it between the chain and rear sprocket on the top, and rotate the rear wheel backward. Take your pick.

BTW, I can't claim credit for that one. I read about it on here a couple of years ago.