Sport Bikes banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am considering go to synthetic oil for the next oil change. I found an FZ-6 review on cbercyclemag.com, dated 5/15/04, from Tim Boone. He states that since going to Mobil MX4T 10W-40 his gear box and engine idle is noticably smoother. Anyone have similiar experience with synthetic oil?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
I switched to Royal Purple 10w40 Max Cycle at 1,000 miles and noticed easier shifting and smoother operation. I haven't had much of a chance to put on a lot of miles since switching, but, if it's anything like my HD it will only get better as you run it. I highly recommend changing to synthetic. Less friction = Less Heat and Wear. How can you go wrong. Just make sure whatever you put in it is wet clutch compatable. :cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,241 Posts
UFOFZ6 said:
I switched to Royal Purple 10w40 Max Cycle at 1,000 miles and noticed easier shifting and smoother operation. I haven't had much of a chance to put on a lot of miles since switching, but, if it's anything like my HD it will only get better as you run it. I highly recommend changing to synthetic. Less friction = Less Heat and Wear. How can you go wrong. Just make sure whatever you put in it is wet clutch compatable. :cheers
At what interval do you change your oil using this syn. oil? Same as the manual says or do you drag it out longer?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
I changed to synthetic at 1k, I'll change at 5k, and every 5k after that. That's probaly overkill, but, with the heat of CA. It's on the safe side. I think RP recommends 10k.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,206 Posts
From the Mobil web site:

"The motorcycle oil also has more phosphorus/zinc for enhanced wear protection at high engine speeds and high loads. Remember, most bikes don’t have catalytic converters, so higher levels of phosphorus are not a problem. "

Hmm, the best choice for an FZ6 if you want the cat to last?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,811 Posts
I'd bet any oil change will result in smoother shifts. It's new oil versus used oil, not necessarily a result of buying the most expensive stuff you can get your hands on. I wouldn't bother really, unless it makes you feel better. If somebody has ever had an oil related engine failure using cheap non-energy conserving car oil and changing at the manufacturer's recommended intervals I haven't heard of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
I wouldn't change to fully synth till at least 6k.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
re the question from Binary Jay, I contacted Mobil about that very thing, their eventual answer (and this is a very loose paraphrase) was "Yamaha recommends a certain weight of oil and formulation" (SF, SG, whatever) "and should know what levels of additive are safe for its bike".

Still, I wonder about this ...

jZ
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,206 Posts
Sometimes I wonder how much pollution is caused by the manufacturing process of a catalytic converter in total in the first place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,426 Posts
falco said:
My trans acts so much nicer since I mafe the switch to Agip, now even more with Amsoil.
+1 on the AMSOIL. I did an oil change on Friday. Put in 10w-40 AMSOIL. The shifting is waaayyy smoother.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,206 Posts
Why the heck did you change out to synthetic this late in the game you'll have to throw it away so soon. I'm riding my synthetic until storage time a bit past my normal interval...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,267 Posts
Binary Jay said:
Sometimes I wonder how much pollution is caused by the manufacturing process of a catalytic converter in total in the first place.

As opposed to what the manufature of an automobile? I think the wee bit of pollution generated from the manufacture of the cat is worth it. Remember. that car is going to be around for a long time generating a lot of pollution without a cat. So when you compare the amount of pollution generated from a non-cat equiped car as opposed to the pollution generated from one cat converter, that is a non issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,426 Posts
Binary Jay said:
Why the heck did you change out to synthetic this late in the game you'll have to throw it away so soon. I'm riding my synthetic until storage time a bit past my normal interval...
Lots of time to put miles on it still. I usually end up riding until mid-December. Depends on the snow. As long as I don't have to deal with icy roads, I'll ride.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
I heard that there is only specific oils you can use with wet clutches. RotellaT 5W-40 Synthetic is supposed to be a very good oil and doesn't have anything that will damage clutches. I also heard that Amsoil is good for wet clutches.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,267 Posts
Rocket67 said:
I heard that there is only specific oils you can use with wet clutches. RotellaT 5W-40 Synthetic is supposed to be a very good oil and doesn't have anything that will damage clutches. I also heard that Amsoil is good for wet clutches.
This is FUD (fear, uncertainty, and doubt) spread by oil companies to get you to buy a motorcycle specific oil, with an artificially inflated price.

I am using Shell's Rotella T 5w 40 Dino oil in my FZ6 and no problems with the clutch and shifts are very smooth.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top