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Discussion Starter #1
I have a very small crack in one of my plastics. It could be described as a hairline fracture. I just want to stop it before it gets worse. Im looking for a good glue to fix this. Im guessing I could use crazy glue. But i think that i may need something stronger than that. Maybe even something bonding. Any suggestions. I wanna keep it as simple as possible.
 

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if you aren't trying to fix the crack, only prevent it from getting worse, then I would just reinforce the back of it(inside). I would rough up the area a little using a dremel and then put a piece of cloth soaked in some sort of epoxy for plactics over the area that needs reinforced. screens can also work for this and might be stronger than cloth.

that is just off the top of my head. my father has a book on how to repair plastic cracks, so if i had to do it i would look at the book first.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok ok. where would i get that from? like home depot or like pep boys? also, whats the name of the book? thanks.
 

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LifeLiberty said:
if you aren't trying to fix the crack, only prevent it from getting worse, then I would just reinforce the back of it(inside). I would rough up the area a little using a dremel and then put a piece of cloth soaked in some sort of epoxy for plactics over the area that needs reinforced. screens can also work for this and might be stronger than cloth.
I have done this for major crackes with super glue. Just make sure you clean with alcohol to get any oil or grease off. I have tried epoxy before but it never sticked. I probally had the wrong kind.
 

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JB Weld works on anything. Do like Lifeliberty said and soak a piece of cloth in this epoxy mixture and cover the crack from the backside. After it dries, apply another coat over the cloth as well as the area around it. if you don't use cloth or screen, the crack will reopen after a while.
 

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I cracked my front fairing by my headlight assembly accidentally when I was using my front stand and lifting up the bike. Didn't notice the front stand was touching the nose and it cracked it. Very much like the "hairline fracture" you described. I put a copious amount of crazy glue on it. Let it dry, then buffed down the big "glue knobs" that formed from gravity pulling the excess downward. That was 5 months ago and the crack hasn't gotten any b*****.

I might go so far as to say that you could crazy glue it and ALSO put some JB Kwik on the backside for extra reinforcement.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks a lot. Just an update...I used Permapoxy's Plastic Weld and it came out pretty good. Its nice because it will fill in cracks and its sandable and filable (sp?). Just hoping that the long term affects will be good. As I said though, it looks sharp so far. Thanks for all of the suggestions
 

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jb weld

jb weld works really well for a lot of things, as do lots of other epoxy type materials. but i just wanted to mention, the jb kwik may work fine, but i tried it once, and it never actually hardened properly, but normal jb weld usually works really well

i used to work in a body shop, and we had this fiberglass paste crap that worked really well, but it wasnt something you could just pick up at your local store
 

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I have tried the Permapoxy Plastic Weld and 'it sucks!'. Expect to find another solution if it is in an area that receives any pressure that will cause flexing.

I agree with the above statement - I could never get the JB Qwik to work as well as the original version. I ended up purchasing a $13 bottle of Loctite (432, if I remember correctly) and it is amazingly strong, and also fills small gaps/irregularities. Good luck with your current repair job. :headbang
 

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I have also heard of another thing to stop the crack from spreading. drill a hole at the end of the crack so the crack will not continue. then fill it in with epoxy, sand, and paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Baldman said:
I have tried the Permapoxy Plastic Weld and 'it sucks!'. Expect to find another solution if it is in an area that receives any pressure that will cause flexing.

I agree with the above statement - I could never get the JB Qwik to work as well as the original version. I ended up purchasing a $13 bottle of Loctite (432, if I remember correctly) and it is amazingly strong, and also fills small gaps/irregularities. Good luck with your current repair job. :headbang
Hmm...now you got me nervous...we'll see. But where did you get the locitite from? maybe i'll stay ahead of the game and use that also.
 

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I used a soldering iron to weld the plastic in back. Worked great, on some of my b***** cracks I used pieces of broken fairings(a.b.s.) as fill and essentially welded the plastic back together. I learned that from and old guy who use to race.
 

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Drilling a hole to revent a crack is effective on metal but I haven't heard of people using it to prevent cracks in plastic.

There are lot's of great industrial epoxies out there, I like cortabond and ARC 10 but you may have trouble finding those at Shucks or Home Depot. Look for a store that specilizes in industrial solvents and that sort of thing.
 

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Redlinger said:
There are lot's of great industrial epoxies out there, I like cortabond and ARC 10...
Ensure you check the design of the product before using it:

ARC Metal Repair

ARC 5ES Repair Stick
ARC 5 Fast-Set Putty
ARC 10 Putty (machineable)
ARC 858 Ceramic Putty
ARC 835 Underwater Putty

I could not locate any information regarding a product called "Cortabond", or anything even similar in sound or spelling. :idunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Redlinger: Thanks for the other suggestions.

Baldman, thanks for the followup on them. Also, wanted to try and find loctite in the stores before I ordered it, but im having a little bit of trouble with it. So i may just order.

Anyone else here have experiences melting the crack from behind, as suggestions or using spare abs to melt and brace? What did you melt it with? Just curious. might be another option for me.

edit: ok...because im SMRT i actually went back and read the other reply and they said they used a soldering iron. but still, any body else's experience with this?
 

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Sorry about that I was wrong about the proper use for ARC 10. I work on merchant ships so I can't get too picky about what I use. If we don't have it I just try to make do with what we have. Cortabond was an epoxy we used with woven nylon to make a temporary repair to a tube and shell heat exchanger, they may have picked it up in Korea during the shipyard period, it worked really well considering that the heat exchanger was getting nailed by water hammer.
 
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