As you hit the end with a hammer it applies force forward and a torque force. This will force the bit into the bolt and rotate the bolt. Once you crack it loose use a standard screwdriver/Allen wrench to get the screw out. Not a good application for your bolts as they are mounted on a somewhat flexible bracket and the bracket will absorb some of the hammer force. You could also bent the bracket
Stripped rear brake master cylidner mounting bolts!!
I have an 06 gixxer k6 and I stripped the shit out of these bolts trying to get them off:
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They're only supposed to be torqued to 7 ft-lb per the service manual. But with their thread lock and the fact that they haven't been touched since mfg of this motorcycle they're practically welded in there.
They have a 4mm hex head which is tiny and didn't stand a chance with the force to get these off. I rounded the hole and the hex grip is gone.
Now I dremeled a nice slit to fit a flathead screw driver, but these fuckers won't budge. The flathead is stripping the slit and I can't get any leverage. They're mangled now and I think it's time for a screw extraction.
So 3 questions:
1) Does anyone have the size spec of these screw threads (width, length & thread)? Specifically the width so I know what size extractor bit to use.
2) Do you agree that it's time for a screw extract? What product is best and where to buy? EZ out? Home Depot? Auto store?
3) Extra opinions on this matter
:comp FUUUUUUUUUCK! :comp
They're only supposed to be torqued to 7 ft-lb per the service manual. But with their thread lock and the fact that they haven't been touched since mfg of this motorcycle they're practically welded in there.
They have a 4mm hex head which is tiny and didn't stand a chance with the force to get these off. I rounded the hole and the hex grip is gone.
Now I dremeled a nice slit to fit a flathead screw driver, but these fuckers won't budge. The flathead is stripping the slit and I can't get any leverage. They're mangled now and I think it's time for a screw extraction.
So 3 questions:
1) Does anyone have the size spec of these screw threads (width, length & thread)? Specifically the width so I know what size extractor bit to use.
2) Do you agree that it's time for a screw extract? What product is best and where to buy? EZ out? Home Depot? Auto store?
3) Extra opinions on this matter
:comp FUUUUUUUUUCK! :comp
21 - 40 of 42 Posts
So does this destroy your bolts or deem them useless for reuse?
Absolutely does.
Do you have one more to get out?
I still vote you get a pocket butane torch from HD and gently heat it before turning it.
Do you have one more to get out?
I still vote you get a pocket butane torch from HD and gently heat it before turning it.
I can tell from your reply that you have never used such a device. It does not damage the screw if used properly.Absolutely does.
Do you have one more to get out?
I still vote you get a pocket butane torch from HD and gently heat it before turning it.
So should you ALWAYS use an impact driver when removing bolts? Or should it be avoided if you think you can get the bolt out normally?
All I'm looking for is to never strip a bolt head ever again. I'd take destroying a bolt and buying a new one cause they're so cheap - over having to do an "extraction" process. It's way too inconvenient. And bolts strip WAY too easily.
It's also the stupid cheap mushroom head OEM small bolts. They're so cheap. There's such better construction for bolt heads for bolts that small. I hate suzuki's OEM mushroom bolts.
All I'm looking for is to never strip a bolt head ever again. I'd take destroying a bolt and buying a new one cause they're so cheap - over having to do an "extraction" process. It's way too inconvenient. And bolts strip WAY too easily.
It's also the stupid cheap mushroom head OEM small bolts. They're so cheap. There's such better construction for bolt heads for bolts that small. I hate suzuki's OEM mushroom bolts.
You only use the impact when the bolt is stuck. You use it to break the bolt then you continue with a regular screwdriver/ratchet.
I'm not sure how I feel about all the small allens. In some ways they're an improvement over phillips (or JIS) but squarehead is even better. But they go over the top, putting allens where they used to put hex heads. The allens are way more annoying to use and require buying another set of bits. Triumph seems to have abused this, as much as I was cursing Suzuki sometimes I wish Triumph would steal their ideas..
BTW, the VAST majority of stripped bolts can be easily avoided. Yours was held in by loctite, but for regular screws. You see this whenever someone doesn't have much practice. They either use the wrong tool or they don't hold it straight. First, get some JIS bits for your Japanese bike. Using a regular Phillips bit will strip much more easily. Second, use the right size bit. Allens will work with a slightly smaller one most of the time, but are more likely to slip. Use metric ones. For phillips, rock the screwdriver back and forth. If it's in tight and doesn't bend much, it's the right one. If not, it's more likely to strip. Hold the screwdriver perpendicular to the screw as much as possible, too. Any sideways movement makes it easier to slip. For allens, get allen bits for a screwdriver. Those little wrenches are hard to keep straight.
After a while you'll develop a sense for when the screw is about to strip and you can stop short of that. Then use penetrating oil, pound it with a hammer to loosen it, push the bit into the screw more, give it a few taps with a chisel, use vice grips, a longer ratchet for hex bolts, etc.
I'm not sure how I feel about all the small allens. In some ways they're an improvement over phillips (or JIS) but squarehead is even better. But they go over the top, putting allens where they used to put hex heads. The allens are way more annoying to use and require buying another set of bits. Triumph seems to have abused this, as much as I was cursing Suzuki sometimes I wish Triumph would steal their ideas..
BTW, the VAST majority of stripped bolts can be easily avoided. Yours was held in by loctite, but for regular screws. You see this whenever someone doesn't have much practice. They either use the wrong tool or they don't hold it straight. First, get some JIS bits for your Japanese bike. Using a regular Phillips bit will strip much more easily. Second, use the right size bit. Allens will work with a slightly smaller one most of the time, but are more likely to slip. Use metric ones. For phillips, rock the screwdriver back and forth. If it's in tight and doesn't bend much, it's the right one. If not, it's more likely to strip. Hold the screwdriver perpendicular to the screw as much as possible, too. Any sideways movement makes it easier to slip. For allens, get allen bits for a screwdriver. Those little wrenches are hard to keep straight.
After a while you'll develop a sense for when the screw is about to strip and you can stop short of that. Then use penetrating oil, pound it with a hammer to loosen it, push the bit into the screw more, give it a few taps with a chisel, use vice grips, a longer ratchet for hex bolts, etc.
The bolt looks like shit and reinstalling it damaged wont be good for future removal. I would use another. Structurally it might be OK but functionally its going to be pita.I can tell from your reply that you have never used such a device. It does not damage the screw if used properly.
The OP asked if the impact driver damages the bolt. Your reply was "Absolutely does". Well you are wrong as countles peolple have used this tool and did not damage the boltsThe bolt looks like shit and reinstalling it damaged wont be good for future removal. I would use another. Structurally it might be OK but functionally its going to be pita.
OH impact driver.The OP asked if the impact driver damages the bolt. Your reply was "Absolutely does". Well you are wrong as countles peolple have used this tool and did not damage the bolts
My bad. I was looking at the mangled mess caused by the chisel and thought he was going to reuse that.
yeah I was going to say you're crazy.OH impact driver.
My bad. I was looking at the mangled mess caused by the chisel and thought he was going to reuse that.
they are the perfect tool for allen bolts and phillip screws that are held in with a thread locking sealant or just damn tight or rusted in.
it will keep you from stripping the head mainly and the impact (which doesn't really take but a tap) will break it loose 99% of the time.
I was in HD the today grabbing some stuff and I decided to look at impact drivers. They don't have any manual ones. But they have a bunch of electric ones for unreasonable prices (except that cheap ass Ryobi one).
Are these electric ones even useful? Or the manual one is by far better?
So where are you guaranteed to find a manual one?
Are these electric ones even useful? Or the manual one is by far better?
So where are you guaranteed to find a manual one?
The electric ones only rotate. They are great on tight hex head boltsbut suck at taking out a philips. The maual type you hit with a hammer so it goes in and rotates at the same time. You need both. Treat yourself this Holiday seasonI was in HD the today grabbing some stuff and I decided to look at impact drivers. They don't have any manual ones. But they have a bunch of electric ones for unreasonable prices (except that cheap ass Ryobi one).
Are these electric ones even useful? Or the manual one is by far better?
So where are you guaranteed to find a manual one?
yeah different animal all together.
I see a manual one at Autozone. Home Depot doesn't have manual ones. The manual at Autozone is $9.99.
The power ones are over $200. I'd like to be a big spender Veefer, but I'm just another American pauper in a country that's going down the tubes. All I have left is my gixxer with 2 broken bolts :lol
Winner...manual impact driver!!
Explain to me why I would need to spend over $200 for an automatic one?
The power ones are over $200. I'd like to be a big spender Veefer, but I'm just another American pauper in a country that's going down the tubes. All I have left is my gixxer with 2 broken bolts :lol
Winner...manual impact driver!!
Explain to me why I would need to spend over $200 for an automatic one?
They are great on nuts/bolts that are on a rotating shaft like the sprocket bolt or the clutch hub nut. You do not have to hold the rotating shaft as hard as the impact does all of the work. I work on bikes a lot so it gets used often.I see a manual one at Autozone. Home Depot doesn't have manual ones. The manual at Autozone is $9.99.
The power ones are over $200. I'd like to be a big spender Veefer, but I'm just another American pauper in a country that's going down the tubes. All I have left is my gixxer with 2 broken bolts :lol
Winner...manual impact driver!!
Explain to me why I would need to spend over $200 for an automatic one?
Thanks Veefer. You've always been so helpful on all my posts.
So I picked up that manual impact driver and I get it now. It's totally badass. I got a pair of bolts off the bike with it. It barely moves them. It just nudges them enough to break the thread lock seal.
Just a few questions. With the mallet, should I be hitting the driver hard and 1 shot at a time? Or a bunch of quick taps while turning the driver left?
So I picked up that manual impact driver and I get it now. It's totally badass. I got a pair of bolts off the bike with it. It barely moves them. It just nudges them enough to break the thread lock seal.
Just a few questions. With the mallet, should I be hitting the driver hard and 1 shot at a time? Or a bunch of quick taps while turning the driver left?
It all depends on the situation. Sometimes you have to go with the big hammer/big hit as the screws are really tight. If the screws are on a flexible bracket you have to go easy as you could bend/break the bracket.
My method is to first make sure the tool is set to lefty loosey, then seat it good in the screw and turn it to take out any slack, then give it a hard whack. It won't work well unless the screw you're attempting to remove is in something pretty solid.
The sharp/hard whack method is the key to breaking a lot of bolts/nuts loose regardless of the tool used. This is why impact wrenches work so well.
Cheers :beer
The sharp/hard whack method is the key to breaking a lot of bolts/nuts loose regardless of the tool used. This is why impact wrenches work so well.
Cheers :beer
impact drivers kick ass, i use mine as a regular screw driver by hand and it takes stubborn screws out with no effort. i have been down the stripped screw path too many times as im sure we all have, all fastners suck. reguardless of how it comes out replace it anyway. evertime i pull something off my bike i go to a sears hardware match the thread and length and ditch all those stupid phillips screws and worn bolts for allens or square drives.
You know, I agree with you sport-ryder. The medium and light duty bolts on these bikes suck so much. I really only feel comfortable reusing the higher quality bolts with deep & large allens and square drives. You can tell a quality reusable bolt just by looking at it.
The light duty ones, like the ones I stripped (4mm allen heads) look like you can almost chew them like bubblegum. Obviously it held like a motherfucker, but the head is so soft and cheap, I feel like it's counter productive to have something hold so tight with such a fragile head.
The replacements for these bolts is under $2 from Suzuki (which is overpriced OEM) - so that's how cheap they are. I would almost be inclined to get replacements from hardware stores like you mentioned with better drives.
The only problem I have with hardware stores here in the states is that they have more SAE bolts than metric. So you don't have a lot of variety on the metric side of things. Damn founding fathers SCREWED us (no pun intended) :lol
The light duty ones, like the ones I stripped (4mm allen heads) look like you can almost chew them like bubblegum. Obviously it held like a motherfucker, but the head is so soft and cheap, I feel like it's counter productive to have something hold so tight with such a fragile head.
The replacements for these bolts is under $2 from Suzuki (which is overpriced OEM) - so that's how cheap they are. I would almost be inclined to get replacements from hardware stores like you mentioned with better drives.
The only problem I have with hardware stores here in the states is that they have more SAE bolts than metric. So you don't have a lot of variety on the metric side of things. Damn founding fathers SCREWED us (no pun intended) :lol
21 - 40 of 42 Posts
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