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· RESIDENT ASSHOLE
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Honestly? Why should you care? Ive never driven anything besides a blown mustang that put 800 to the wheels that needed anything over regular unleaded.

Octane does not = horsepower or driveability.
 

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hybrid said:
Honestly? Why should you care? Ive never driven anything besides a blown mustang that put 800 to the wheels that needed anything over regular unleaded.

Octane does not = horsepower or driveability.
Higher octane reduces detonation... that's good enough for me :popcorn
 

· RESIDENT ASSHOLE
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8,486 Posts
You two are clowning.

You really dont have any idea do you?

Ive run 14.1 compression motorcycles on 86 octane with absolutely no engine knock. Learn to drive in the proper gear.

Im not saying that some cars dont benefit from a bit of higher octane. Due to other circumstances but to believe that your car needs it is just hilarious.

The average car is no more than 10.1 in compression and need very little in the way of actual octane.

Keep driving up hills in overdrive, with your ac on.......... :rolleyes
 

· old member
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hybrid said:
You two are clowning.

You really dont have any idea do you?

Ive run 14.1 compression motorcycles on 86 octane with absolutely no engine knock. Learn to drive in the proper gear.

Im not saying that some cars dont benefit from a bit of higher octane. Due to other circumstances but to believe that your car needs it is just hilarious.

The average car is no more than 10.1 in compression and need very little in the way of actual octane.

Keep driving up hills in overdrive, with your ac on.......... :rolleyes
+1 Bike manual calls for 87 and runs best/gets best mileage with 87.

Cage calls for 91 and runs best on 91 although the ECU will adapt to lower octane.

Unless you've done something to increase your compression, you don't need anything more than the manufacturer recommends.
 

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Hybrids right, all you do by running a higher octane than needed is put out LESS power and waste money. The reason for higher octane is to SLOW the burnimg of the gas to stop knocking. For best performance run the lowest cotane you can without knocking. Anything more is wasting money and making you go SLOWER.
 

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Krazy is right. I've seen this thread started soooo many times in both bike and auto forums. It's common knowledge (or one would think it was) that you should run the LOWEST octane you can without causing engine knock (pre detonation). Spending money on higher octane is a waste...just send me the money instead.
 

· RESIDENT ASSHOLE
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Yeah its kinda funny seeing as I built the nastiest engines seen in motorcycles for some years. Both AMA SUPERBIKE and NHRA PROSTOCK DRAGBIKES

I tested horse power in an engine with 13.1 compression. First with pump gas (lowest octane) then with race gas (I think it was VP C-16) and the horsepower difference between PUMP GAS and SYNTHETIC RACE FUEL was a whopping 4HP and that was after I spent 3 hours tuning it in on jetting and ignition timing.

Right then and there I knew that Id never waste my money on fuel until it was the last available option I had. Street or Race
 

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DepWraith said:
Krazy is right. I've seen this thread started soooo many times in both bike and auto forums. It's common knowledge (or one would think it was) that you should run the LOWEST octane you can without causing engine knock (pre detonation). Spending money on higher octane is a waste...just send me the money instead.
Wow I was 1 of those fools that thought higher octane was better.. Looks like the majority says other wise.. So I will start sending you my extra money.... :eek:nfloor :eek:nfloor
 

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hybrid said:
Yeah its kinda funny seeing as I built the nastiest engines seen in motorcycles for some years. Both AMA SUPERBIKE and NHRA PROSTOCK DRAGBIKES

I tested horse power in an engine with 13.1 compression. First with pump gas (lowest octane) then with race gas (I think it was VP C-16) and the horsepower difference between PUMP GAS and SYNTHETIC RACE FUEL was a whopping 4HP and that was after I spent 3 hours tuning it in on jetting and ignition timing.

Right then and there I knew that Id never waste my money on fuel until it was the last available option I had. Street or Race
I take my hat off... If you can daily drive your 800hp blown mustang with regular gas and have no problem with detonation :cheers

I do agree... if your bike/car is stock, there is no reason to run higher octane that what the manual says :)
 

· at the track
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whatever is cheapest works best for me...87...good riddance overpriced 94
 

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In my street bikes and car, I run what the manual suggests. The race bikes get VP U4.
 

· RESIDENT ASSHOLE
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8,486 Posts
jk750 said:
Guess what fuel the AMA Superbikes run...

VP Racing Fuel MR1 and MR9.

90 and 87 octane. And the 87 octane MR9 makes the most power.

At about $21.99 a gallon...
When I built engines for that level we used ELF synthetic and NUTEC synthetic fuels. I think both of them at the time were a whopping 104 octane and they were so volitile that I literaly passed out pouring fuel into one one day. I started pouring and it was like being choked out....white stars and I hit the ground.
 

· RESIDENT ASSHOLE
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8,486 Posts
1eo said:
I take my hat off... If you can daily drive your 800hp blown mustang with regular gas and have no problem with detonation :cheers

I do agree... if your bike/car is stock, there is no reason to run higher octane that what the manual says :)
Its actually about 1000 at the crank........peak. I have a few things helping me run pump gas...........the first being at 1 mile elevation wich is a 20% loss in power and a 2-2.5psi loss in atmospheric pressure. I may have a block that has mechanical compression of 8.5:1 but the dynamic compression is much higher. (think how nascar can get giant numbers out of a small block even for stupid ********) But now you take into consideration of my atmospheric loss and you see why I am able to run my pump gas.

Next is load, my car doesnt get a trailer tied to it up a hill in into the wind so it never really sees a huge load. Id burn the tires off before it did. Also selecting the right gear for the job spreads the BMEP over a broader area. Higher RPM in a lower gear gives a better torque multiplier through the transmission.

Horsepower is not an indicator of fuel requirments (octane speaking) its merely a math function of torque times RPM divided by 5250

Load, combustion chamber efficiency and cooling efficiency dictate the octane required.

V8 engines with two valves are unlikely to be run at 14.0:1 (maybe NHRA??) as the cylinder head is inefficient compared to a modern hemispherical combustion chamber with 4 valves.

Also, the minute you change from a cast iron cylinder head to an aluminum (on american cars) you can increase your compression safely as it cools much better. (I dont remember the coefficient numbers of cast iron to aluminum in cooling properties)

Octane is nothing more than a math number = to resistance of detonation aka burning. The higher the octane the harder it is to ignite and the slower the flame front will actually travel. So gram for gram there is really no more power to be had in the two different fuels at the pump but because your engine doesnt require it to run well its being wasted. You want more compression to utilize the resistance of burning. Think of fuel as nothing more than a source of BTUs. The lower octane is easier to extract the BTUs out of a stock engine than the higher octane.

SO ONE MORE TIME FOR ALL YOU KIDDIES:

USE THE LOWEST OCTANE YOU POSSIBLY CAN IN ANY ENGINE YOU HAVE.

Youll save money, make more efficient power and be much much wiser.

You can send all your paypal donation inquiries to my private message box. I figure I can save most of you over a hudred bucks this summer so one dollar per person should suffice.

Last I heard, Charles Schwabb wasnt doing any investing for 1% :eek:nfloor
 
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