Sport Bikes banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,095 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
95 Ninja 500, 19000 miles. After I ride for a while and come to a stop, seems like there's a shudder in the chain. I don't know if its after riding hard or just after riding for a while. The rear wheel is aligned with the factory marks on the swing arm. I haven't tested it with string yet. The chain and sprocket set is the original. Doesn't look to need to be replaced yet. I had the rear wheel off a while about 500 miles ago to replace the rear tire. The shop mounted and balanced the tire and I put it back on. How much slack should the chain have? I don't recall how much I have but it may be a little tight. Do you think its a misaligned rear wheel or its time to replace the chain and sprockets or tight chain or something else not mentioned? Thanks!
 

·
Mexican Hard Shell Taco
Joined
·
5,894 Posts
I think it's time for you to get off your but, clean, lube and adjust that chain. A worn chain and sprockets won't "shudder" when coming to a stop, a tight chain might. Tight chains are about the worst you can have, the suspension will bind, the chain will wear too fast and you're putting too much pressure in the transmission bearings. On the other hand, a chain on the lose side will cause no problems at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,233 Posts
Is it shuddering like it's getting ready to stall? Could be your idle is too low, or the carbs need to be cleaned if that's the case. I don't remember my 500 ever having shuddering issues, but mine was a bit newer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,095 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
no its just the chain thats making an odd noise/vibration/shudder. Bike doesn't want to stall or anything. Just seems like the chain gets in a bind. It may be a little too tight or unevenly worn. I was at school so I figured I'd ask what to do before I got home in case someone pointed out something I didn't think about.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,233 Posts
Could be you're using too much rear brake which is causing the rear to hop. When I first got the F4i I wasn't used to the dual disk in the front and had that happen a couple times because I was used to using both brakes on the 500.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
I think it's time for you to get off your but, clean, lube and adjust that chain. A worn chain and sprockets won't "shudder" when coming to a stop, a tight chain might. Tight chains are about the worst you can have, the suspension will bind, the chain will wear too fast and you're putting too much pressure in the transmission bearings. On the other hand, a chain on the lose side will cause no problems at all.
+1

The chain being tight could definitely cause this problem.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,095 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Checked the chain, way too tight. See, I didn't think it was the slack because when I put the rear wheel back on 500 miles ago, the chain was slightly too tight but I just left it there because I didn't know if I could get it any better. Well it had no slack when I just checked it... So it tightened itself up. I'll have to keep an eye on that now. I gorilla armed the axle nut so hopefully it wont happen again.
 

·
old member
Joined
·
13,079 Posts
Check the chain slack at several positions as the chain goes around the sprockets. Chains "stretch" unevenly so there are bound to be tight spots. The chain should be adjusted to the proper slack at the tightest point. Otherwise it will get over-tight in some spots. This is why the chain slack might seem to change over time if you only check it in one position.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,095 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Check the chain slack at several positions as the chain goes around the sprockets. Chains "stretch" unevenly so there are bound to be tight spots. The chain should be adjusted to the proper slack at the tightest point. Otherwise it will get over-tight in some spots. This is why the chain slack might seem to change over time if you only check it in one position.
Makes sense. I'll have to go check that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,095 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I re-tensioned the chain, checked it in several points and the slack was fine wherever I checked. Went for a ride, everything was good, came in the driveway, started doing the same thing it was before. Hopped off the bike, chain is tight as can be once again. I put the axle nut on pretty tight. I have the cotter pin through it so I don't see how it could come lose. wtf is happening?
 

·
old member
Joined
·
13,079 Posts
Are all the spacers etc. on the rear axle back where they belong? Rear axle nut torque should be about 70-80 lb-ft on your bike I would think.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,095 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Are all the spacers etc. on the rear axle back where they belong? Rear axle nut torque should be about 70-80 lb-ft on your bike I would think.
Yeah all the spacers are on. Manual calls for 90 ft lbs. I don't have a torque wrench but I'm torque-ing the axle nut pretty damn tight. You adjust tension with the adjuster bolts, tighten them, then tighten the axle nut, correct? I can tighten the adjuster bolts tighter. I just put those on snug. Try #2 tomorrow and hope it stays this time.
 

·
All right meow...
Joined
·
2,719 Posts
Are you braking to a stop and checking or do you walk the bike a few feet so no tension?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
475 Posts
Bikes with regular swing arms (i.e., not single-sided swing arms) will tighten the chain tension slightly as you tighten the axle nut. As the axle nut squeezes the arms of the swing arm together, they effectively increase in distance from the swing arm pivot to the axle, which in turn puts more tension on the chain.

I found this out the hard way after adjusting the chain on my katana with the axle nut loose. A few miles down the road I hit a bump, and then heard (and felt) a bunch of grinding. Totally destroyed the transmission output bearing and tore up the casing.

Make sure you have enough chain slack AFTER you tighten the axle nut.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,233 Posts
Bikes with regular swing arms (i.e., not single-sided swing arms) will tighten the chain tension slightly as you tighten the axle nut. As the axle nut squeezes the arms of the swing arm together, they effectively increase in distance from the swing arm pivot to the axle, which in turn puts more tension on the chain.

I found this out the hard way after adjusting the chain on my katana with the axle nut loose. A few miles down the road I hit a bump, and then heard (and felt) a bunch of grinding. Totally destroyed the transmission output bearing and tore up the casing.

Make sure you have enough chain slack AFTER you tighten the axle nut.
This is what I'm thinking. Generally, I'll snug the axle up, but not real tight, and then check the tension again before torquing it down. How old is your chain?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,095 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It's 18k miles or 18 years haha. I adjusted the chain, went around block. Chain tightened up again. Adjusted chain, inspected and it looked fine, sprayed some lube, gorilla armed EVERYTHING. Went around the block, dont think it moved. hope it stays...
Im getting a new chain and sprocket set next riding season. I'd like to milk this chain out for the remainder of the season.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,233 Posts
It's 18k miles or 18 years haha. I adjusted the chain, went around block. Chain tightened up again. Adjusted chain, inspected and it looked fine, sprayed some lube, gorilla armed EVERYTHING. Went around the block, dont think it moved. hope it stays...
Im getting a new chain and sprocket set next riding season. I'd like to milk this chain out for the remainder of the season.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
Next season as in next year? Dude I'd replace that chain/sprockets immediately if it's seriously the original chain. Not only will it probably fix your shudder issue, I'm betting the bike runs smoother.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,095 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Next season as in next year? Dude I'd replace that chain/sprockets immediately if it's seriously the original chain. Not only will it probably fix your shudder issue, I'm betting the bike runs smoother.
The sprockets are still in good shape, chain isn't unevenly stretched and has no kinks. The slack is fine now. Stayed right where I set it after a rather spirited 20 mile ride. I just needed to torque everything down more than I was. The shudder was because the chain was too tight. It was binding up as I braked. The rear wheel was sliding back somehow. But now that the slack stays where I set it, it doesn't do that. I'm not sure how old the chain and sprocket are. I'll start looking for a new set.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,277 Posts
Next season as in next year? Dude I'd replace that chain/sprockets immediately if it's seriously the original chain. Not only will it probably fix your shudder issue, I'm betting the bike runs smoother.
Shit,you didn't see the one on my F4i when i bought it. 21 of 46 teeth left.
I am not kidding.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top