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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. I currently have an 07 kawasaki zx6r. I have a little knock in the engine. Not bad. Sounded like time for a valve adjustment so thats what I did. It helped a little but now im told that I most likely need a new cam chain and tensioner. No prrblem. My question is ballpark what am I looking at spending if I bring it to a shop? And also are there any aftermarket stock replacements that are of better quality than oem? Ive been looking but cant seem to find any.Any input would help. Thanks a lot!
 

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The cam chain is located on the end of the engine instead of the middle these days so changing the cam chain is a lot easier. Problem is that the cam gears have marks so they can be aligned with the crankshaft for proper cam timing so the valve covers must be removed resulting in more labor charges. Sometimes the cam chain is not out of spec but the tensioner spring is too weak to advance and snug the chain. Manual tensioners are available but one must be careful not to over-tighten the cam-chain; just a millimeter or two is all that is needed until the rattle is gone. Well worth replacing the cam chain and tensioner though; be sure to use high viscosity motorcycle synthetic oil.
 

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Use a stethoscope to determine where the engine noise is coming from. If its coming from the timing chain area, or cylinder head, then maybe shim the valves and tighten up the chain (this might fix the noise). If knocking sound is coming from the crank shaft, its time to find a replacement engine.
 

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I'm having a hard time believing that any '07 bike would need a new cam chain already, unless you're putting on tons and tons of miles on the thing and neglecting oil changes.

More than likely, the chain is simply stretching just enough to make some noise but not enough for the next ratchet to engage on the tensioner.

Either that, or one of the plastic cam chain guides is worn (or cracked/broken) and not putting enough tension on the chain.

As for replacement parts, just go OEM. There's not much (if any) market for aftermarket cam chains, since they get replaced so infrequently.
 

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Cam chain noise isn't a knock per se

Cam chain noise is more of a ratlle and primarily on decceleration

Valve noise is a tick
rod bearing being bad is a knock

stethescope and pinpoint the noises location

How many miles on the bike?
How has it been ridden and maintained?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There are 11k miles on the bike and ive had it since 8k. It seemed to me that it was treated well before me and I NEVER beat on it and am also extremely ocd about oil changes and any other maintenance. If I cant do it I get it done by someone who can. It seems to be comkng from the upper righthand side of the engine and it goes away almost completely when it reaches 150 degrees or so to the point where others qouldnt even notice but I do. It is more of a tick than a knock. It does sound to me like valves but they were done less than 100 miles ago so I have a hard time believing its valve problems. Honestly have no idea though. Guess ill just bring it in and shell ouy the heavy coin to get it fixed. Thanks for all the help guys!
 

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I don't know how the kawi's cam chain tensioners are but you could never convince me the ape manual tensioner(or any manual tensioner) is better to have than my stock (non hydraulic) spring loaded tensioner. which is always putting the proper amount of tension on the guide at all times and is impossible for it to back off the tension by it's design so it's not relying on the spring to keep it tight. the spring is there to set the initial tension and the threaded rod keeps it locked down and prevents releasing the tension. I can't believe yamaha went to a hydraulic unit that relies on the oil pressure on the 3rd gens. I guess it has less parts and saves $ or weight. the problem is until the pressure builds in it at start up there is no tension on the chain and there is nothing preventing it from backing off during operation.

as for the chain itself I don't know. mine lasted about 42k miles and it was so stretched I could not put the engine back in time with it. I went back with a OEM yamaha chain just because I hate taking a gamble with aftermarket stuff I have no experience with and find out it's a pos and doesn't fit in the first place or something.


my chain made all of my valves sound really bad. I was very happy and surprised to find out the new chain made my engine sewing machine quite again just like a brand new engine is. and the stock tensioner is still installed.

if you have access to a factory service manual and have a little mechanical experience you should do it yourself. it's not that bad. take your time and be thorough and you wont have any problems. my chain was only $25. I'd hate to have to pay a few hundred bucks to install it.

the #1 piece of advise if you do it yourself is to make sure you put the motor in the #1 pistion TDC (top dead center) before you take the motor apart. and don't turn it again until you have the new chain installed. remove the battery cables so no one can accidentally turn it over via the starter too.
 
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