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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I just bought my 05 FZ6 (Grey and Black) and I have a couple questions.

1) I read the acrhives and found the answer to what would have been my first question about the 1st > 2nd gear "Clunk". As long as others are hearing the same thing I won't be too concerned about this. My last bike a 1996 Honda Magna did the same thing and after many years of service showed no signs of any type of issues.

2) When I drive around town here in the Metro Area of Detroit, I find that I end up changing gears at lower RPM's (i.e. 3500rpm). Sometimes when I get to the 5th > 6th gear change I can get "Stuck" between gears and I have to re-shift up to 6th. Also the FZ6 will jump out of 6th sometimes when this happens. What is the best RPM range to ensure smooth shifts and solid gear changes? Since my last bike was very different from the FZ6 I find my habit of shifting at low RPM is a hard one to break. I think that maybe letting the FZ6 rev to 5500 or higher to shift up might work better.

3) Is it necessary to completely pull in the clutch lever?

4) Does anyone have advice to ensure smooth shifting? I only have 120 miles so far and I want to ensure a long life with my FZ6.

My last question has nothing to do with shifting:

It was nasty-hot the past 3 days. Even though my FZ6 wasn't topped off with fuel, the vent hoses had "something" that dripped on the ground. I touched the ends of the hoses and inspected the "spot" on the ground and I also saw what I would consider oil. If it is super hot outside (95+ degrees) will the oil release vapor that condenses in the vent tubes, and the drops on the ground? I just got my FZ6 three days ago and I guess I am overly paranoid. I have been a die hard Honda guy for years and this is my first Yamaha.

Thanks for the help.

-Mike R-
 

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It may seem weird but I usually taste the liquid to find out what it is, one of the most accurate ways.
 

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mrench01 said:
2) When I drive around town here in the Metro Area of Detroit, I find that I end up changing gears at lower RPM's (i.e. 3500rpm)
If you are only around 3500 rpm, there is really no need to shift up. The engine is designed to be high reving. Let your engine live a little bit.
 

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i usually shift around 6000 just taking it slow and around 8000 if i want to get there a little faster
 

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When my bike was brand new I got a bunch of junk coming out of the vent tubes a few times which freaked me out a bit, but after a bunch of distance with it, it's stopped completely.
 

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I've got a bit of a clunk between 1st and 2nd, It has receaded a little (almost 2900 miles), and the synthetic i started at 2000 seems to have helped as well.

Never had anything come out of the vent tubes that I have noticed and we've had a few days in the 90s.

I does sound like your shifting a little low in the rpms, but not damagingly low. Considering your bikes in breakin just bring it up to 4000 to 6000 and see how it does.
 

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No need to pull in the clutch all the way when shifting. On my bike, I just curl my fingers in a little bit, and the shifts are nice and smooth.
 

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The bikes going to be a little finicky for the first 1,000 to 1,500 miles. Forget 5th or 6th gear until you are above 50 mph as they are a bitch to work with. I switched mine over to full synthetic at 290 miles and the transmission started working much better. Around town where the speeds are 0 to 45-50 I never get out of 4th gear and I use 5,000 rpm as a minimum shift point. Put the bike up on the center stand and check the oil cold, it should not be overfilled; mine was that way from the dealer. This bike loves rpm and it also loves being upshifted as well as downshifted and this would include 1st. If you don't get it down by the time you stop, it may give you trouble getting there once you are. Do not hold the clutch in and just start slaming down, shift and release all the way down; this will make a difference later on.

Good luck, Hawk
 

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same as the other guys, shift higher up, around 5-6k! to get it smooth! about the getting stuck between 4/5 etc, I had the same problem, figured out it was because I wasn't putting enough up pressure on the gear leaver. fixed that by dropping it a bit when it went in for a service, don't seem to do it anymore.

for u guys that do mostly metro ridding, seriously consider changing your sprockets when you can, makes town driving so much better. i sit in top gear now all the time and still have enough power to overtake comfortably at about 45-50mph wiithout changing down. moved to 15-48, not so great though if u do extreme long distance though.
 

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I get a small spot on the ground right below one of the vent tubes. I'm not sure what it is, but it's not a lot so I don't worry too much about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys!

The FZ6 owners manual kinda sucks when I comes to the proper shifting method. It only gives suggested speeds when to shift up / down. I like using the RPM to figure out which gear to be in.

Thanks for the suggestion about using 6000RPM for a good shift point. I gave it a try and the shifts are much smoother.

Also I will try adjusting the toe-lever for the shifter down a little bit so it is easier to fully "click" into gear. How hard is this to do? Is there any special trick I should know? Usually I like to do most of my own maintance.

I think you guys also might be correct about the dealer over-filling the oil. I will check the level tonight to ensure it is correct.

My 1996 Honda Magna left me with a bad habit of lugging around in tall gears at low RPMs. I can tell you for sure that I like the FZ6 a LOT more!

-Mike R-
 

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mrench01 said:
Thanks guys!

The FZ6 owners manual kinda sucks when I comes to the proper shifting method. It only gives suggested speeds when to shift up / down. I like using the RPM to figure out which gear to be in.

Thanks for the suggestion about using 6000RPM for a good shift point. I gave it a try and the shifts are much smoother.

Also I will try adjusting the toe-lever for the shifter down a little bit so it is easier to fully "click" into gear. How hard is this to do? Is there any special trick I should know? Usually I like to do most of my own maintance.

I think you guys also might be correct about the dealer over-filling the oil. I will check the level tonight to ensure it is correct.

My 1996 Honda Magna left me with a bad habit of lugging around in tall gears at low RPMs. I can tell you for sure that I like the FZ6 a LOT more!

-Mike R-

I had to adjust my shift lever shortly after I got the bike. I had to lift my foot off the peg to shift the darn thing.

All you need to do is loose the jam nuts on each end of the tie-rod and turn the tie-rod. Retightened the jam nuts and you're good to go.

You might want to put it up on the center stand so that you can sit on the bike and test your new setting before trying to go out and ride it.
 

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Kind of off topic, but when you're checking the oil make sure you don't thread the dipstick back in when checking the level. Just insert it till it stops. Threading it back in will make it look like it's too full.
 

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shifting faster at higher rpm's is better.. also, the bike shifts buttery smooth without using the clutch. I can shift much better without it than with.
 
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