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So I am about to do this mod since the damn FI light has been on for weeks. Seems like most of you have been happy with the results. Has any one noticed any difference in the low end torque after the mod? The service manual states this is the purpose of the valve. I know most of us agree its for passing sound tests...however being an engineer it makes sense you would loose some low end torque with the difference in back pressure. Just wondered if it was even noticeable? Or if noticeable the added throttle response made up for the difference in low end torque that that was lost that you just don't care about it?

I will let you know how it goes once i get mine done. Figure it can't hurt since the dealer wants to replace the motor saying it will take two hours of work at $75/half hour plus the cost of the motor. Figure a free mod is well worth a try.
 

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It's definitely a noise control solution. It says so right in Suzuki's first generation SET valve literature. An added benefit might be improved low speed torque, but that is not the reason for the valve.

If the low speed torque improvement was so advantageous, Suzuki, Yamaha and the others would be using them in racing to get the drive out of the corners with the Ducatis.
 

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completed

Well all in all it took about an hour. Almost all of it was trying to get the plastic tail piece off! There is a screw that i was having a hard time getting to break loose at the weird angle you have to attack it at. It's been raining here pretty much non stop the last few days. Hope to get out to ride it this weekend. Took it down the street and back just a few minutes ago. Seemed to stumble when i first got on it. Other wise was doing fine. Will be curious if that goes away once the bike runs for a bit and the computer relearns the system performance. It was raining so i didn't get to really test it.
 

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Done with mine... So easy... a caveman can do it!... (No caveman's were harmed during the making of this post). Will ride it in a few days, after i finish installing the Yoshi TRC slipon and will post results. ;-)
 

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Hey guys hopefully you can help me out. I am a dumbass and pulled out the wrong wire. I pulled out #22. In the process of pulling it out the wire also broke less than an inch from the pin connector. I have spliced the wires back together with a connector and am trying to put the pin in but it doesnt seem to be catching. What do i need to do to get it to stay in the wiring harness? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I have a yosh exhuast and thought i would try this mod out. Performed this mod last night only took 12 mins. One thing you want to do to pull the #30 wire out is to remove the grey colored keeper on the back of the plug (this is the plate that has the #'s marked on it). just use a baby screw driver to pry it back. (you will see a notch to do this). If you do this you can pull the wire out with your fingers. Test road it today and it is alot smother in the lower speeds. It does make the big have a deeper sound and that pesky F1 light is finally gone. :banana Thank you very much for posting this mode. My GSX-R has never run better. :bowdown
 

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thanks so much for mod instructions

i just did my set valve mod and its freaking awesome at first i had a problem with turn the ignition trying to get it to stay open bc one of my cables were loose so any i continued to the next steps so wheni finished i started the bike and it didnt sound any different but theni just thought it was bc i just have a loud exhaust any way but then i just thought let me try a pair of channel locks on the wheel that open aned closes and so nough my valve was closed and as soon as i turned the channellocks the other way i could hear my exhaust get LOUD!! but for some reason my valve turns clockwise to open no counter clockwise but anyway man thanks for the help
2007 suzuki gsxr 750
 

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My bike didnt like this mod at all..It was louder but the rpms wouldnt get up over 6500-7000..I called the dealer and they told me the only thing they could think of was that they overserviced my engine with oil, or the exhaust control valve was not working and it wasnt creating enough back pressure to make the power....the oil level was fine and sure enough, I put the mods back to stock and it ran like a champ...not sure why it did this, I know the set valve was in the open position, i counted the cycles and I even took off my exhaust to make sure I did it right..oh well!

Just did mine and it did the same thing so i looked at it more and what i did was when you first turn the key it fully closes the valve then fully opens it! i pulled the plugs when it was fully closed :bangdesk and it would not go over 6500 to 7000 but now i got it right bike is louder, smother throttle, pulls a little harder :)
 

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Hi,
Just joined this site after reading this thread..i have an 2006 GSX R600 and was having same problem with the FI light,, code46..
followed the instructions and problem is fixed!!! Thanks...
Question is,,,is the the light only dis-abled for a code 46 ??
It will still come on if some other problem happens , correct?
 

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so what happens if you pulled all the set valve stuff with the bike off? I dont know it mine was opened or closedwhen i disconnected if. Does the ecu think its closed and have an effect on the fuel / timing?

this is on my k3

i see the bugman site say to short the feedback plug...
 
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