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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bike: 2006 gsxr 600
location: Skyway bridge toll plaza.
Problem:

Well where do I start. Just got back from being out of town for a week, (I install Solar panels for a living.) Wanted to take the old lady out for a ride, uip to st. pete beach. Started out great. Bike cranked up we geared up and hit I75. Lovely day cold front creepin down south, and everything is great. In the back of my mind the whole time I had a funny feeling something was wrong. Been worried bout my tires and what not, bike felt funny to me to.. Anyhow enough drama, we are headed to a toll booth to a big bridge down here in the South, and I pull up in line behind another car, I am idling, and my bike's engine stops. At first I thought I let go of my clutch since it happened so fast, and was odd. tried to kick in logic. Anyhow I tried to restart, dead, hit my ignition and dim, dim, then dimmer.. til it was a dead stick. Imagine the horror, dead bike at a toll plaza, so I am walking my bike across mad cages like frogger to get to the parking lot, for the toll employee's. Whole time I am thinking cops gonna come bother me now.

SO I got the old lady pushing , I am pushing trying to spark her back up. After about ten minutes of this I realize it wont work. Battery need some juice to charge the coils, for the R/R or whatever it was my bud said. Not magneto.. So my boys come with the truck and pick me up, got my girls home, now I am beiging to worry about the bike. My gut is telling me it my be the r/r, strange for the battery to just croak after its getting fed juice driving down the interstate in high rpm's. Yet I beleive its still the factory battery in her.

Does anyone know for sure or pretty positve it is the r/r the stator? being the problem? Is it normal for battery to just crash out after a long high performance ride? Just concerned about buying a new battery, when its not the problem, and pouring to much scratch in the bike, that could be prevented. Will go out and buy a voltameter tommarrow, but does anyone have a good idea its not the battery? Just shocked and awed this happened to us, so odd. Anyhow peace bro's.

Good lookin out.
 

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Take your battery out and get it load tested. If your battery is on it's last leg even bump starting it won't get it going. Once you get the battery fixed then you should have bright lights and ready to hit the starter. Make sure you have good sound when you are hitting it.
I would bet it's just the battery. T
 

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if your bike died after riding for a while i would say its not the battery. even if your batter started off the day dead it should have charged during riding. has your bike overheated recently? the regulator/rectifier is right next to the exhaust headers on these bikes, easy to blow it up if it gets too hot. best thing to do is check your charging system with a multimeter.
 

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dude thats exactly what my battery did when it chocked on me,,, the only advanced warning i got was my speedo quit right before it fell on its face and died when i came to a stop and turn around to go home and see why the speedo quit
 

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Brothers bike had original battery in 04 600rr March of 08, battery was so dead it would just die while riding, lucky he was close to home and pushed it. Replaced the battery, all good. You can only charge a dead battery so much while riding, start with the easy things, battery, charging system, fuel, plugs, then look at other things. If you have a meter handy you can check the rect as well. T
 

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First thing to do is see if you can bring that battery back to a full charge (on a charger). You could have it tested as well as tripage suggested. It may or may not be bad, but whether it is or not... you want to check the charging system to make sure that's not the cause. So start with your newly charged old battery, or a new battery (only if necessary), and then...

1) check charging voltage (DC) across the battery terminals while running @ ~ 4-5K. Is it somewhere around 13-14 v (if not a hair more)? If so, your charging system is doing its job. If not, further investigation is required. Post back if it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Jody,

Put the guage on the bike started at 1000 on the dcv guage floated between 12-13 across the rpm spectrum between 4-5, dipped it to 20, and really does not crest past 12v, but their is a increase in amps, just nothing near 14v. So not sure if that is sounding like the r/r (I am hoping not) but it is getting a charge.. Any suggestions?

Peace
 

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Use jumper cables from a car battery. If it starts then your battery is toast. Still could be a regulator or other charging issues depleting the battery charge.
 

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mine was charged just enough to start it and i said it'll charge while i ride,

i was a few miles down the road and look down and speedometer and it quit ,,,

i turned around and started to take off and it just died,,,

battery was toast and mine was a 2006 model,,,, battery just fried

sounds just like yours
 

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Jody,

Put the guage on the bike started at 1000 on the dcv guage floated between 12-13 across the rpm spectrum between 4-5, dipped it to 20, and really does not crest past 12v, but their is a increase in amps, just nothing near 14v. So not sure if that is sounding like the r/r (I am hoping not) but it is getting a charge.. Any suggestions?

Peace
You should expect a higher charging voltage than that. But... assuming this is the old battery... it could be the reason you're not getting good numbers. I'd consider these results inconclusive.

If you haven't already done so, I'd get the battery load tested. Or if you can, swap out a known good battery.

If you get the same results, the next thing I'd do is check the output voltage of the stator. If it comes back good, do a diode test on the R/R (which should be outlined in the factory svc manual).

Also - check the electrical terminals connecting the stator to the harness and the R/R to the harness. Look for any dirt/grime/burning. Clean as necessary.
 

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On a 2006 model, my vote goes with battery. I was on my way to Cincinnati last month and stopped to get gas. When I went to start up I had NOTHING. No lights, no clicking, just dead. I was over 100 miles from home and it started up perfect when I left.

I was able to jump it from a nice car driver and went the last 175 miles without stopping. It SUCKED. But my bike has an alternator, so it will run fine on a dead battery, unlike most R/R systems.
 

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Buy the manual and follow the simple procedure within. Or buy Motorcycle Electrical Systems and follow the simple procedure within. Each wrong guess costs a C-note (or more.) The book is twenty bucks. It's easily as useful as your manual and twice as easy to understand.

Amazon.com: Motorcycle Electrical Systems: Troubleshooting and Repair (Motorbooks Workshop): Tracy Martin: Books

The book is twenty bucks. It's easily as useful as your manual and twice as easy to understand.

But if you're committed to poll-based diagnosis, my vote goes to the regulator/rectifier.
 

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Most bikes have 3 wires comming from the alternator. The output of each one of the wires should be aprox 50 volts AC at around 5K rpm. The output of the voltage regulator at 5K rpm should be over 14 vplts DC at the batery. If the AC is not there your stator is probably bad. If the AC is correct and the DC is low then your voltage regulator is probably bad
 

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Each wrong guess costs a C-note (or more.) The book is twenty bucks.
I really like that! Mind if I use that the next time I hear of someone just guessing at what part to replace? :D

And Veefer... if my stator was reading 50VAC per phase @ 5K, I'd be a bike-pushing MoFo. That number is most definitely bike-dependent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well it was the stator. I replaced it and everything worked great. For a while. In addition I do have the Manuel, lemme tell you there are somethings in that manual you have to really think about to understand, especially in the Electrical portion of it. So anyhow, I replace the stator, and the battery, and it worked for about a week or two, then once again it started, the problem that is, yet luckily this time it crashed out in my driveway. Battery dead, checked it with my volt meter once again and Now I am getting the same symptoms as I had before. Been so pissed off about it, it has been sitting in my car port for the last week. My wife is begging me to take it to the garage but I know just how expensive that will be so once again I am going to try and repair it once more on my own. BTW replacing the stator was not that hard. Pretty easy actually, just dismantling my bike is a pain in the arse. Taking the plastic off, taking the air filter out, that takes a half hour at least, not to mention better have allot of tools before you even dream of working on your own bike. Long screw drivers plenty of wrenches and ratchets. So anyhow I need help, any idea's what to check that might be killing my stator? I have not diagnosed the stator itself but I am about 90 percent sure its that damn stator again. Could the oil be a problem? Would the rectifyer be dead? Burning out the stator? I have googled and googled and googled and it seems I am on a uncharted journey here with my bike. If anyone knows what I can be looking for man, I would apreciated it, with the state of the economy today I really do not want to go to the shop to, have them lick their chops and I feel like an idiot. For not asking here FIRST..

PEACE
 

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Buy the manual and follow the simple procedure within. Or buy Motorcycle Electrical Systems and follow the simple procedure within. Each wrong guess costs a C-note (or more.) The book is twenty bucks. It's easily as useful as your manual and twice as easy to understand.

Amazon.com: Motorcycle Electrical Systems: Troubleshooting and Repair (Motorbooks Workshop): Tracy Martin: Books

The book is twenty bucks. It's easily as useful as your manual and twice as easy to understand.

But if you're committed to poll-based diagnosis, my vote goes to the regulator/rectifier.
I just checked and that book is available at my library, I'm gonna check it out and read it. And its free.
 

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Well it was the stator. I replaced it and everything worked great. For a while. In addition I do have the Manuel, lemme tell you there are somethings in that manual you have to really think about to understand, especially in the Electrical portion of it. So anyhow, I replace the stator, and the battery, and it worked for about a week or two, then once again it started, the problem that is, yet luckily this time it crashed out in my driveway. Battery dead, checked it with my volt meter once again and Now I am getting the same symptoms as I had before. Been so pissed off about it, it has been sitting in my car port for the last week. My wife is begging me to take it to the garage but I know just how expensive that will be so once again I am going to try and repair it once more on my own. BTW replacing the stator was not that hard. Pretty easy actually, just dismantling my bike is a pain in the arse. Taking the plastic off, taking the air filter out, that takes a half hour at least, not to mention better have allot of tools before you even dream of working on your own bike. Long screw drivers plenty of wrenches and ratchets. So anyhow I need help, any idea's what to check that might be killing my stator? I have not diagnosed the stator itself but I am about 90 percent sure its that damn stator again. Could the oil be a problem? Would the rectifyer be dead? Burning out the stator? I have googled and googled and googled and it seems I am on a uncharted journey here with my bike. If anyone knows what I can be looking for man, I would apreciated it, with the state of the economy today I really do not want to go to the shop to, have them lick their chops and I feel like an idiot. For not asking here FIRST..

PEACE

It's either one of two things:

a) Bad rectifier / regulator
b) Short circuit somewhere that is overloading the charging system.
 

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Recharge battery get a mutimeter and check the charging voltage out of the regulator perfably under load (turn all the lights on high beam where relevant). As you havn't mentioned testing the final output of the charging system ie at the battery. I would also clean ie remove corrosion etc etc where the earth cable bolts to the frame also clean the bolts that hold the regulator to the frame the earths are used as a refereance and its important the voltage regulator and the rest of the charging system are working off the same base.
 
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