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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, let me start by saying that this mod is not easy, cheap, or fazt. I bought an extra set of mufflers off E-bay for around $130 with shipping, these were in case the MOD went completely sour. You see I’ll do almost anything to keep the factory look but get ass kicking sound on them, so if worst comes to worst ill just stay factory sound and look. The bill for the complete job in the machine shop (opening the can, debaffling, fabricating a new cover, and Heliarching it together) was for $125. :bitchslap Yes........$255. Halfway to any descent aftermarket can.

So now to the results. Keep in mind that my CAT was completely stripped previously to this MOD.<see attached picks> :pisson
The first obvious result is that the bike looses a bit of power, so you'll probably have to add a PC to it. The sound results are a bit complicated. It's a complete improvement from factory, BUT if done right! Sadly mine wasn't due to that we (me and the machinist) didn't know what to expect.

1. We cutted out a hole on the bottom of the exhaust as big as we could without cutting out mounting holes or important parts of the muffler. It could have been cut in half but for complete debaffling it’s easier to make a big hole. Besides you'll have to be very good to weld half and half back together exactly as factory to keep the mufflers mounting points. You will have to cut into the plate you are removing to be able to remove it. It is welded to the inside baffle. And this pretty much destroys the plate and you'll have to make a new replacement plate.

2. Once inside we proceeded to remove as much baffling as we could. This was good in the sense that now the muffler weights half as before, but it is also BAD! And here’s why. The muffler is composed by two thin layers of metal with some fiber glass in between here and there and the inner layer has little holes. The baffles gave structural integrity to the bottom part of the muffler (the thinnest area). The plate that we heliarched to it was thin just like the original one (and to my opinion too thin). Now at some revs the new plate resonates and gives of kind of a metal sound or faint ping (not the motor!). What made things worse is that some of the fiberglass burned away in the heliarching process and left the inner layer of metal free to vibrate and annoy the shit out of me! It sometimes sounds (depending of revs) like a small screw is in the muffler hitting around! If I had known this would happen I would have completely removed the inner layer near the hole we made!

3. The oscillating plate problem I fixed it by bending the plate inwards with a rounded head hammer. Still thinking on how to fix the "loose nut sound" problem without having to re-open the muffler (it's an expensive weld). Without these two problems and the obvious cost the sound kicks ass. Haven't had the time to take it out for a spirited ride but to my opinion it sounds better than MOFOs 2 bros (I mention this since they are the ones I would buy). It's loud but not annoying! To me it sounds like a GSX 1000 with a Yoshimuro CAN without the exaggerated loudness of it.

I'll try and post picks and keep updated after the spirited run. I’m taking the time to install the LSL sliders I just got and changing all the damaged parts from my accident in January.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok....let me first finish the fix up, then ill try to post em.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
PETA?!......well anyways. A little update. Yesterday I finished changing the scratched tank and stator cover. And today decided to turn it one and make sure I didn't leave a loose bolt inside, or that the cover didn't seal right or that the fuel wont leak......hmmmm many opportunities for disaster. But to my neighbors dismay nothing wrong happened.

Well.....something good did happened. I don't know if it's growing on me or if something really happened but the sound of the exhaust is improving a lot. First, the inward bending of the new plate seemed to work and stop the metallic resonating. Second, the annoying rattling noise is almost gone. Either there was some loose material in there bouncing around or whatever it was got enough clearance to stop rattling. Haven't checked at speed to see all the rev range but ill get around to it. Something new though, I'm starting to have a little pop-ing. This leads me to think that the mix is rich, ill just install a KN filter and see what happens. The sound clip will probably be ready for this weekend. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update

Ok finished fixing up my baby and recorded a short good quality video so you guys can hear. All I need to do is edit it to make it as short and small as posible. :popcorn :pisson (some butter for your popcorn?)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
:lol Should be done by saturday. Im using my bro's profecional equipment from his business and I can't use it while he's using it.:lol Good things come to those that wait.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well here it is like promised.

This is part of the audio from a 5min, 9.5mb video I made. Since I wasn't able to get it small enough without it looking and sounding like crap i did this little audio file. In the video i showed my bike, reved it up, did a burn-out, a couple of fazt drive-by's, and a couple of weeling drive-by's. If anyone cares for it let me know. And if anyone want's to host it, let me know too. :lol
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Well......it's divided in 5 zip files of approx 1.3mb each. PM me an e-mail address
and ill get it to ya. G-mail helps a lot. :)

Just came back from a spirited ride (running from the cops :lol ) and noticed that Ive lost a bit of power. Cant say if its rich or lean though. At high revs it feels like if im runing lean but when standing still and just reving it to 7k to piss-off the rider behind me( :pisson ......we bother each other like that) it smells rich. Ill figure it out in time.
 

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FAZtER said:
Just came back from a spirited ride (running from the cops :lol ) and noticed that Ive lost a bit of power. Cant say if its rich or lean though. At high revs it feels like if im runing lean
Do u think there is a way to reset the PCM to relearn the mods that you made. I don't know the complexity of the chip that's in the bike but I know with some cars, the computer relearns after it is resetted to how the driver drives the amount of air that comes thru the intake etc etc. Or is it the old fashion EPROMM where the only way to reprogram is to by a different EPROMM with a different map in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well I started a thread about Cracking/Hacking the FZ6's ECU. If I do figure it out Ill post it in there. I will try disconecting the battery for an hour and see if it does, but I dont think this will work since it keeps memory of your miles without power to the ECU. Hence it must be a Flash chip or an EEROM.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sorry bout the e-mails not getting there. Yahoo wont let me cus they're too big and for some weird reason gmail ain't working either. Any ideas on how to get the video to you guys?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Finally got Gmail working. Email sent you mad scientist!
 

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FZ6 Baffle-ectomy

I saw your post two days ago and decided to perform the operation as well. I am not beyond my break-in miles yet (328 as of now), so I have not yet experienced the complete potential of the bike and would not notice a loss or gain in power from this modification.

My whole purpose was not for power gain. I just couldn’t stand the fact that this bike sounded like a 600cc Singer sewing machine and I too liked the factory look a lot! I don’t like the fact that the after market pipes stick so far out and if I wanted a more powerful bike, I would have just got the R6. So with the whole point being that an FZ6 is just an FZ6, I chose the path to a louder exhaust only.

I did design a strait pipe set up first since the CAT is a small muffler and the exhaust system has so many bends, the noise volume would not have been too much. That idea was shelved when I figured how much work it would have taken to fabricate mounting brackets for the system and the exhaust cover (again factory look).

The operation took place on the bottom of the muffler to avoid all the mounting tabs on the top. I used a rotary (Dremel) tool and stone blades (29) to make a thin cut (makes easier welding). I cut a rectangle approximately 2/3 of the bottom, cutting through one of the baffles and around two of the spot welds. I cut squares around each of the spot welds to pull off the outer skin and left the inner perforated skin for the blow torch.

I was lucky enough the have a friend who’s back yard looks like the cable show Junk Yard Wars. He has anything and everything to make ANYTHING. So the blow torch and TIG welding were done at his place. This brought the cost down considerably.

The muffler is designed just like a car muffler with three chambers and two baffles. It reminded me of the inside of a BOSE subwoofer. The exhaust enters chamber #1 and is transferred to chamber #3 and then back to the middle chamber #2 and then on out your twin exhaust tubes.

We started by using the cutting torch to remove the perforated inner skin where I had made my cuts and then cut out the first baffle and tubes and then the second baffle and tubes so that it was one big empty muffler can. Once that was done he cannibalized the parts I had cut around to fill in the wholes on the outer skin and weld the cut pieces back in. we used that same outer skin to seal up the muffler. This was about a 90 minute weld job. That fact alone makes it expensive, but still cheaper than a set of pipes. we reused the original muffler skin, so it looks a bit factory with a surgury scare.

The completed job looks good and the bike has a unique sound. It is not as nearly as loud as normal after market pipes. The sound is a cross between a muzzy, a two-stroke bike and an F1 car. I know it sounds crazy, but it does. And the sound is cool!!

I have pictures in my TREO phone, but can’t get them to download into my computer, so if you want pictures, I’ll have to send them via cell phone for now.

As a note, my friend is a certified welder and on the side makes patented metal and fabrication work for off road trucks, buggies and bikes. This means he will do the mod for anybody intersted, but for approximately $150.00 if you bring him the muffler. If you live in the So. Cal. area, let me know. You can even look at and hear my bike in person to see if you like it.

Bike10
 

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You've got 328 miles on the bike and already modding it? Go riding for f sakes!!!!

IMHO, to mod the stock can, the best thing to do would be to open it up, loose the pipes but leave the baffles, and make a custom Y pipe that would route the one inlet to the two outlets (could increase the outlet sizes by 1/4" at the same time). Drill holes in the pipe, basing the size on a typical "cherry bomb". Inset the Y pipe and weld it to the baffles where it pases through (to hold things tight). Then back the muffler with fiberglass and weld the skin back on...

I don't like the idea of the pipe just flowing into an open can and then going out the two holes at the back, not very good fluid dynamics methinks! I do however like the stock look WAY more than aftermarket pipes, so one day I may do this. For now, and for the last 13,500 km, I've had no problem with the stock exhaust!
 

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FZ6 Baffle-ectomy

I am riding believe it or not. I commute 5 days a week, which is why I got this bike. My Ducati Monster broke and they told me parts could take weeks or months. Needless to say I bought this bike last Saturday. I actually have more miles on two wheels than four wheels in the last 26 years and ten bikes. In two years I put 37,000 miles on my Bandit 1200s before some rookie fell off his bike in front of me in January and put me into the cement center divider at 40mph. after healing all my broken bones I got on my Ducati for commuting (yeah I know, not the ideal commuter).

If I’m hearing you right, you’re talking about a glass pack muffler (cherry bomb). I also drew up a design for that too, but the work involved creating mounts etc.., was not worth it. If you ever look down an aftermarket pipe, it looks very similar to a glass pack and has the same dynamics. And to put it into the original muffler-can would be near impossible since there are too many blind spots you can’t reach with a torch.

I was not looking for power, just noise. If you think about it, the original 3 chamber design stuffs the exhaust gasses into chamber one and the exhaust gas has to finds it’s way to the third chamber and then find it’s way back to the middle (second) chamber and so on till it exits the two tail pipes. I have brought all that down to just one large chamber till it exits.

You’re right about the flow efficiency, but I wasn’t looking to do that, if so, I would have used either one of my designs or used after market pipes.

As for enlarging the exit tubes, I also thought of that until I had the muffler off, and it is possible, but it meant modifying the rear mounting spot for the silver exhaust cover which I was not wanting to do.

As for the result, I think I have gotten more heads turned with the new exhaust sound than I do with my Ducati (loud Arrow pipes). Because of the single chamber design, there is TWO-SROKE can sound and the slight sound of an F1 car.

If you have a buddy with welding capabilities, give it a try or contact me and my friend the “Bead Man” can do it for you.
Bike10
 
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