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I've been idling here for awhile now, but I have a question that has been bugging me for some time now. I have a D&D exhaust and as everyone can guess, it is too loud for my liking. I've heard that repacking might help? Has anyone here ever done this before and know if it works? Do you buy a repacking kit or something?

I'm also considering trading for a quieter pipe. I like the sound, it's just too loud for me (I don't like all the head turning). So if you're willing, maybe we can trade?

Thanks for any help! :cheers
 

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I've repacked the Muzzy can on my old 6R. It made the can a little quieter, but eventually it got loud again.

If you're just looking to make your can quieter, I think you're going to have to switch to a different brand can. Even if repacking the D&D does make it quieter, I don't think it's going to be to the point where you'll be happy with it.
 

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Your best bet is getting rid of the D&D. D&D are made to be loud,and thats pretty much it. Repacking I don't think will give you the results you are looking for. Try and sell the D&D on Ebay or something and look into getting a Two Brothers or a Micron, those or my personal favorites for a Honda.
 

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My Yosh can isn't too bad either. Decent rumble, but not insanely loud. Although, a guy over at CBRWorld said that his F4 never sounded better than when he had a Muzzy can on it. They're usually running a half price sale on "dinged" cans, but the defects are usually fairly minor and difficult to find. Check out the website and see...I think they're usually running for $135 or so for the F4.

As an addendum, they also have a sticky portion with all of the cans from different manufacturers being tested (at CBRWorld). I think they're tested on an F3 or an F4, so it will give you a good idea as to what the can you want to purchase will sound like.
 

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Repacking instructions from personal experience (thise is meant to be kind of funny)...

1 - Attempt to drill out rivots at the end of the can (one or both ends).
1a - Realize that 4 of the rivots are spinning infinarely in with the drill... get pliers to secure culperate rivots. Scratch endcan.
2 - Remove endcap, burnt packing and core.
3 - Examine charcoal-like carbon deposits on core, packing, hands, shirt, and shorts... wonder if bike is running a tad rich.
4 - Wash hands, change cloths (to black T-shirt and dark shorts)
5 - Stuff all of the packing in the Vance & Hines packing kit you bought into the muffler. Realize it only takes up 2/3 the required volume.
6 - Locate fiberglass insulation (Owens-Corning), deem reasonable substitute, use to fill remaining 1/3 of the muffler.
7 - Realize that you are placing the theoretically more flamable house insulation at the engine side of muffler. Remove all packing and reinstall with Owens-Corning on the theoretically cooler outlet side of muffler.
8 - Re-rivot endcap.
9 - Realize 1/8 rivots are too small to provide clamp force. Run to hardware store and buy larger size (you want to use aluminium rivots for this). Find out 3/16" rivots are out of stock, so buy 1/4".
10 - Realize that 1/4" rivot is too large to fit in hole. Drill out holes to fit.
11 - Re-Rivot endcan together.
12 - Reinstall endcan using needle-nose pliers as spring puller. Invent new 4-letter word strings when describing how stiff the mounting springs are.
13 - Test ride - revel at the fact that your ears aren't bleeding anymore after full-throttle run.
14 - Realize that flat spot is gone because the carbs were jetted with properly packed exhaust and associated backpressure.

It's really not that tough. Generally, the loudness of the exhaust is determined by the density of the packing. Before you sell the D&D, I'd try packing it really tight. See if that makes a big enough difference.
 
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