I did some of this 2 weeks ago.
Just like any paint job, the prep work is very important.
Sand, prime, fill sand prime fill sand prime sand.
Wet sand with 400 grit, palm sand with 200 grit.
After you have fixed what will be fixed and primed, you are good to go.
Finish with a light block sand with 400 grit wet to produce a very good finish.
The sanding block is a 1/4" rubber block, it helps to get the low spots out.
Use a sandable primer. They are fast dring and will not load up your paper too bad. The paint I used is Platicoat. It dries really fast (under 1 hour). Get one of the spray can handles. It will help get pro finish. when the parts are ready to spray. First lay the down on a plastic tarp, make sure there are no other vehicles that will over spray. Space the parts about 1 foot apart min.
Make sure it's a nice warm none windy day. Shake the can like hell, and remember less is better than more. Move the can perpendicular across the parts at the constant distance of about 12" across the parts, spray past the edges without stoping. Paint them one at a time, just a light coat, no runs, no drips. Start with the edges, allow the parts to dry 10 min to an hour between coats depending on the pant. I use about 2 cans to paint a tail section and the upper fairing. For the last coat, use a light wet sand to knock down any high spots (dirt). After the parts are fully dry, spray a heavyer coat on each part you want to get the whole part shiny at the same time. To do this you need to wok fast. Add just enough paint to get the good shine or you will get runs, so don't blow it here. after each par is painted relocate it to prevent over spray from fogging your nice finish.
After it as cured for several days or a month, you can try a light polish, but remember the paint is not really very thick!
Mine came out great, but I'm not sure it's thick enough to polish.
I used white, because it goes with the rest of the colors on the bike.
It's also harder to screw up.