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'98 fzr600 here. it's got a little over 17k miles on it. bought it used last year. this is my first bike so there's some things i'm learning about maintenenence.. i found out after a month of buying that the previous owner had the air filter yanked out so i dropped a k&n in there. he also had a yosh slipon and a 150 tire. i didn't realize the tire until i replaced it with the recomended 140 and then of course noticed the difference. (ordered a 150 to put on this time)

so it's time for some tlc on this thing. change the oil, etc.. does anyone use 10w50? it's a little thicker than the book but it's a lot easier to find. last time i found the right stuff at walmart but they quit selling bike oil :a2

the clutch/tranny doesn't give me too much trouble. once every few hundred miles it might fall out of gear (actually when i took this to the strip i almost blew it up because of this)(averaged about 13 flat). when leaving from a stop (quickly) sometimes seems like there's slippage. i'm not sure if it's my skinny-ass rear tire or the clutch. other times (especially warm) it seems like it bogs down and needs more gas than usual when leaving from a stop. i'm not sure if this is usual or if the bike was abused or what. should i be worried or are these just the miles catching up with the bike? maybe it's the oil?

another thing is the carbs are nasty. there's a huge dip in the powerband at about 6k but if i push past the power comes back. i'd really like to fix this but i'm a little scared from how involved carbs look in the manual. anyone know some shortcuts?

last thing is wheelies. i tried a few times and couldn't pull it off. one of my buds tried too (he can do them on his R6 but isn't a pro or anyhting) and had no luck on my bike. since i don't know wheelies i'm asking if this bike is intensely hard to wheelie or if i just suck at them. one of the front fork seals is dripping a bit so i don't know if the previous owner stunted it or not, might be just regular use (i do live near some nasty rr tracks). but i figure i outta learn before i replace them or buy a new bike just in case i do drop it. not that i intend to be a stunter or anything, but every once in a whlie i hit a straight open road and just want to wheelie the bitch. :D
 

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You can use the 20W50 Castrol GTX or pretty much any oil that's not "energy conserving". It sounds like your bike has a weak tranny that the FZR's are known for. My 90 FZR has never slipped or popped out of gear, so I don't know this first hand.
As for the bog, is your fuel filter clean? Any vac leaks? Also did you check the valves? Your bike is at the mileage where they will need to be adjusted. If your bike has any trouble idleing or starting then adjust the valves.
As for the dip, it could be that the pipe was put on and not rejetted so the mixture is not right. Again, I don't have this problem so I'm just guessing.
And lastly, wheelies. I have no clue, I don't do them. Never have on the FZR and probably never will. And replace that fork seal! You don't want any oil or grease to get on your tires when you only have 2 of them.

www.fzrarchives.com is your one stop site for FZR info. I hope this helped.
 

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I have hesitation at around 3k myself not sure whats causing it.
 

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RLPoloArgyleSweaters,Son!
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Bad carbs synch or stock air box...I launch around 3k so I'm not familiar with this problem
 

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Stock air box? I still have stock pipe though.I thinking its the carbs.The guy I bought it from claimed to have had them cleaned , but I'm not buying it.;)
 

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RLPoloArgyleSweaters,Son!
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...Get carbs synchronized...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok well tonight i put in the 20w50. right off the bat it seemed to take a lot longer to warm up.. i had to pull the choke when that's been jsut a winter sorta thing. i think i remember this from last time i changed the oil too but this seemed a little worse. when i gets cold out i might have to order some thinner stuff just to get it to idle right, not sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
when the tank was about half empty i dumped in a full bottle of that carb cleaner and rode around with it locked in that rpm range it was coughing in for a little while. it actually helped a lot, but i think you guys might be right about that valve and carb tuning.
 

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There's nothing wrong with using a 150 tire. You'll lose some quickness while turning (barely noticeable on the street), but the bike will feel a bit more stable. If you're losing traction on hard takeoffs, it's likely not the tire, but probably the transmission... definitely a weak spot on this bike... especially if has been abused.

I use to use Yamalube 20W-40, which was the recommended oil. I'm switching to Shell Rotella T 15W-40 next time. Many bikers use this oil with excellent results. Plus, you can find it for about $1.50/quart. I think Walmart carries it.

Definitely get a carb synch and valve adjustment done. I had that done on my FZR earlier this year and now I get better gas mileage. The carb cleaner you added probably cleaned the carbs sufficiently to help, but if you want it done right, you'll have to have it taken apart.

If you're leaking oil in the forks, then it's definitely time to replace the seals. It can happen if the bike is brought down from wheelies too hard... you might want to consider this before doing too many yourself. :)

The problem with the FZR regarding wheelies is that the bike is a bit low on power at lower RPMs. Try this... while in first gear, rev the bike up to about 3500 rpms, then let off the throttle completely. When you feel the bike surge forward slightly, then whack open the throttle. This should bring the front wheel up. If it doesn't, try a higher speed in first gear. Be careful not to loop it and make sure you're wearing your gear.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
is that rotella actual bike oil or just branded as motor oil? i don't like this 20w50, it's too thick. So far i've avoided stuff that doesn't actually say 'motorcycle' on the bottle.

and with the wheelie thing.. i tried the suggestions but the rear tire just busts loose. i'm gonna wait till the new 150 is on to try again. so you guys don't have trouble getting the front up on this bike?

how expensive is the valve asjustment? does it noticably restore performance (like fixing the carbs) or is it more like something you should just do (like changing the oil)?

soo many questions i know.. thanks guys
 

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RLPoloArgyleSweaters,Son!
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I can get front up easy with Dunlop 140, I finally broke down and bought a BT014 150 last night. I'll let you know if it's easier or harder. Valve adjustment isn't like changing oil important; it's like change timing belt(Jap Car) important...If they get out of spec they can destory the whole engine(needed every 15k according to me or 16k by the owners manual) Carbs Synch is all about smoothness, it helps performance, and you could even invest in a Jet Kit for some more power! Look on MAW online for a V&H SS2R pipe for even more power(They are like D&D loud on my FZR600)
 

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Wiglaf said:
is that rotella actual bike oil or just branded as motor oil? i don't like this 20w50, it's too thick. So far i've avoided stuff that doesn't actually say 'motorcycle' on the bottle.

and with the wheelie thing.. i tried the suggestions but the rear tire just busts loose. i'm gonna wait till the new 150 is on to try again. so you guys don't have trouble getting the front up on this bike?

how expensive is the valve asjustment? does it noticably restore performance (like fixing the carbs) or is it more like something you should just do (like changing the oil)?

soo many questions i know.. thanks guys
No, the Rotella oil is not bike specific motor oil. It's labeled as "heavy duty" oil. Don't worry though... many people use it and no one has ever had any problems. Just do a little research on the internet. Heck, you can use just about any car oil as long as it doesn't have friction modifiers in it... it'll make your clutch slip.

Maybe you're too light on the bike if the rear tire is busting loose. :D Check the air pressure in the tire... it may be low. I personally haven't tried doing a wheelie on my bike. I don't really see the "fun" of doing it... plus I don't think the excess strain it puts on the chain and sprockets is worth it, not to mention the risk of blowing out your fork seals if you land it too hard.

Definitely get the valve adjustment done. I just got one done this year. It was included in a full tune-up (which also included the carb synch and fork oil change). Cost me $200 plus parts.
 

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fzr1rider said:
Look on MAW online for a V&H SS2R pipe for even more power(They are like D&D loud on my FZR600)
A slip-on isn't going to give you much (if any) power increase. It's more or less for the exhaust sound. Yours must need the baffle replaced or is gutted if you think it sounds like a D&D... I have that exact slip-on and unless the RPMs are up there, it's pretty quiet.
 

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sjlee said:
Definitely get the valve adjustment done. I just got one done this year. It was included in a full tune-up (which also included the carb synch and fork oil change). Cost me $200 plus parts.
All of that for JUST $200! :eek: Man! That is really really really cheap!
The north east is just too expensive.
 

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As for oil I was using Mobil 1 15W50 red cap, and recently switched to Rotella 15W40, and I like the Rotella better, even tho it's a little clunkier shifting, but the motor seems to run a touch hotter and is quicker to spin up. I have almost 33000 miles on my little fizzer, and have had absolutely no problems with it, a slight drop in power from 8800 to 9000 RPM, then back in the power band:) I have always had 150 rear tires, and have used BT010's and now have it shod with the BT014's, which have make the bike corner like a sweetheart, but don't last more than 4000 miles, the BT010's lasted almost 10000 miles, well probably less than that, the cords started showing at 10000. Every 4000 miles I put in a concentrated jet cleaner in a tank of gas. This winter I'll change the plugs, which I haven't changed in 3 seasons, get a very well known shop in my area to synch the carbs and give it a "professional tune up", I'm a hack, and this bike hasn't seen a pro since I bought it. Actually I have been really impressed with this bike, and will go down in my bike riding history as one of the best bikes I've owned, I can run with almost every modern sport bike in the corners, but on the straights the liter bikes are long gone, most 600's I can keep up with.
 

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Heres another recommendation for getting the carbs taken apart and cleaned. I had the same problem as you with the flat spot at 6k. I also thought it was the pipe, but lo and behold after my friend cleaned my carbs for me it was completely gone and the powerband is incredibly smooth.
 
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