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Discussion Starter #1
Hello from gixxer.com. I am trying to get together as many people as I can to send a formal petition to Suzuki to recognize this problem (abrupt ON/OFF throttle). Please follow the link, read up and decide if you have experienced what many of us have. If so please add your screen name to the list and I will contact you with further information when we get enough people together.

Here is the link: http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139581

Sincerely,

Randy Chong (Mr. Big)
 

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Yes I've been following your posts over at the gixxer.com forums. I wish you luck in your persuit of a recall. If you haven't already, might post this at gsxr.com also.
 

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Welcome back after a year and a half, Maui. So you're still a Kaw rider on SBN, but a 'gixxer' rider over there...

I've been following this for awhile now, too. Among others, I liked Ghostrider750 and TheGeek's responses to this 'problem' -

Ghostrider750 said:
I love how newbie's post "It's the bike, can't me me! I'm smooth with a car or dirt bike. Believe me, unless your that 1% that actually has a lemon bike-it's you. You got to get use to how the bike really works and how it like to be ridden. Ever notice why Suzuki stated that the GSX-R bike are intended for experienced riders? That means even the 600 and 750 not just the 1000.
TheGeek said:
For all this bitching and moaning, who has taken their bike to the dealer to have it checked out? I have 2 friends, both with K6 600s. Both had the problem. Both took it to the dealership, and now both won't shut the hell up about how smooth it is and how quick the power comes.

This is what happens when you have too many secondary valves (intake and exhaust) combined with 8 fuel injectors on a bike designed to be run at very high rpm, but choked with EPA mandated lean spot mapping, out of spec cable adjustments and operated by inexperienced riders in low speed and stop and go traffic.

Check all the cables for proper spec, get your bike properly mapped to restore EPA robbed throttle response and oem ecu deceleration fuel cutoff abruptness, and ride it like it was designed to be ridden. The sky is not falling on you guys over at 'gixxer'. Commute on a Burgman, or a Hondah.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the warm welcome back. I don't think a remap is going to solve this problem. I believe the problem lies deeper than that. I have an Arrow s/o, Set disabled and I'm running a map from Powercommander.com with no change whatsoever. I realize a custom map is going to smooth the power curve out substantially, like the map I'm running now has. But the ON/OFF throttle gremlin is still apparent. What I have found by deduction is that the mounting position of the Rectifier/Regulator is very poor (behind the radiator and inches above the header pipe) There is not enough air flow to dissipate the heat which has lead me to testing the rectifier and concluding that it is shot. I will confirm this when I get my dealership to scan the bike later this week.
 

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Why do you suspect the regulator/rectifier? It's true that it could be mounted in a better position, and those things do get damn hot! But what about this do you suspect is causing the throttle issues?

I have my own ideas about improving the regulator/rectifier cooling, but if it is the culprit of these throttle issues, it's even more important.

I'd still be leaning towards secondary throttle valve (STV), actuator (STVA) or position sensor (STP) mis-adjustment. The ecm controls these functions, and if your bike is lurching while you are not manually moving the primary throttle at all, the ecm might be triggering the secondary throttle valves to move. The service manual offers detailed procedures to test and adjust these functions. If the owner can't do it, any quality service technician can.

Let us know what you find out. Glad you found our little Suzuki section here. Don't be a stranger! :cheers

:edit If I'm right, or if I fully diagnose the problem before anyone over at gixxer, you have to post a link up over there instead of the other way around. Deal?
 

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Hell the installation of of the power commander and and a good map got rid of the problem for me, not that it was that big of a problem for me to begin with.
 

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That's true, Will. I think your bike's symptoms had a lot to do with the S.E.T valve actuator cables being out of adjustment, too. That was also a common issue to many K6 owners. That, and the lean stock map.

This is why I said in post #4 to check all cable adjustments.

The problem that these owners are talking about might be the same thing, or it might be something different on the intake side. The way it sounds, I'm thinking it has something to do with the Secondary Throttle Valve system.

Does it demand a recall? I doubt it, but I don't know yet for sure. I want to get to the bottom of this as much as anybody. Sometimes the most complex problems have the simplest solutions.
 

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jk750 said:
That's true, Will. I think your bike's symptoms had a lot to do with the S.E.T valve actuator cables being out of adjustment, too. That was also a common issue to many K6 owners. That, and the lean stock map.

This is why I said in post #4 to check to check all cable adjustments.

The problem that these owners are talking about might be the same thing, or it might be something different on the intake side. The way it sounds, I'm thinking it has something to do with the Secondary Throttle Valve system.

Does it demand a recall? I doubt it, but I don't know yet for sure. I want to get to the bottom of this as much as anybody. Sometimes the most complex problems have the simplest solutions.

I think you are right bro! Another reason I am fixing to bypass the SET valve and not have to worry about it any longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
well I suspect it is the rectifier/regulator

A) Because I bench tested it and I'm pretty sure it's fried
b) There is voltage regulators in the wiring diagram for the three yellow wires from the generator.
C) I'm pretty sure the ECM tells the rectifier that it needs a certain voltage, it turn closing the circuit for the generator and allowing voltage to be transfered to the rectifier, in turn stepping it down and converting it and then sending it back to the ECM to distribute it to a number of sensors and control's (TPS,STV,STVA,STP). So when the rectifier is pooched the circuit no longer is able to close and the ECM doesn't get the regulated voltage it is requesting.

A lot of people are complaing that this only happens when the bike is warm after they start it up. Well my theory is that the rectifier works fine up until a certain temperature at which time it shorts and the circuit can no longer close to allow voltage to transfer from the Generator. When you shut the bike off after it is warm and then turn the ignition back on again, the bike goes through calibrations for numerous sensors, because the ECM cannot receive the requested voltage it works with what it has and throws everything out of wack... ie herky jerky throttle

Did I confuse you yet? Because I'm pretty sure I confused myself.
 

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You may be on to something. If your R/R is fried, your stator is next. If your R/R is only temporarily overheating, it may be causing those problems.

Time to do some temperature readings on the unit. Possible cures include relocation, installing a heat sink, or even adding an auxiliary pc fan.

If this is the cause of the throttle problems, then yes, it warrants a recall.

Old but good info on R/R problems and solutions - scroll down to step 3.
http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfaq.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #12
great link jk750. I'm going to do some more testing as I talked to a mechanic that has some knowledge in this field. I'll keep you posted.
 

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Let us know. I'm obsessed with getting to the bottom of this now. Like a Bulldog with a bone. :lol

If it's a heat related R/R problem, does it mainly happen when riding slowly in traffic? Does it go away when you start getting some air flowing?
 

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Hey, im just curious but i have read this forum and i am curious to the herky jerky and on/off throttle due to the rectifier...... is it when your getting into a high rpm that it shuts off? because that is what mine has been doing. it runs smooth as butter and takes off decent but once i get to higher rpms it will damn near toss me over the bars because of a sudden NOTHING, trying to dump the clutch in 2nd just does NOTHING , and yea so i was just curious if that was what you all were talking about
 

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You may be on to something. If your R/R is fried, your stator is next. If your R/R is only temporarily overheating, it may be causing those problems.

Time to do some temperature readings on the unit. Possible cures include relocation, installing a heat sink, or even adding an auxiliary pc fan.

If this is the cause of the throttle problems, then yes, it warrants a recall.

Old but good info on R/R problems and solutions - scroll down to step 3.
The GSResources - Stator Papers II - FAQ

i just had to get my rectifier replaced because mines caught on fire and had a hole burnt into it. so i was wondering where could i possibly relocate the rectifier so that it could get better air flow so that its not so hot?
 

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f1 light / rec regulator

i have had a heap of problems with my gixxer , i brought it brand new in 2006 and im relucktent to say i think i have a lemon , i was wondering if anyone has had the same problems as me ? ... i first noticed it would have some trouble holding a constant speed down low around 60-70kmh it would become jumpy and unsable , then it sh!t a rec reg witch i had fixed then the F1 light still keeps coming on and now when i go for a ride it just cuts out randomley like there is no charge in the battery even though i have put a brand new one in .... Has anyone had the same or simaler problems and know how to fix them?
 

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I have not experienced this problem with my 08 750 but I did get a recall notice from Suzuki stating the following:

"Some rectifier assemblies installed on the affected models may have a condition which can cause the internal circuit board to fail in service due to excessive heat. Should this occur, insufficient charging current will be available to the battery. If the battery becomes excessively discharged, the engine may not be able to start, or my stall. Engine stalling while riding may increase the risk of a crash. To ensure safety and consumer satisfaction we are initiating a safety recall campaign to replace these affected rectifier assemblies."

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