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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
here are some pics of my modded F3 turned streetfighter. home built engine cage, home built 12 o'clock bar, home built from headlight plate. i still need to bash down the tank, but its about done, let me know what u think









 

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at the track
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looks good, get that tank mashed in
 

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So you can sit on it when you're doing highchairs and not slide off
 

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not a real knowledgeable person about 12bars, but wouldnt it be more useful if it were taller? (more surface area on ground = less wobble, no?)
 

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Chinygyal said:
So you can sit on it when you're doing highchairs and not slide off
Oh. Thanks, seemed kinda weird. I'm thinking about buying another bike, used, to screw around on. Don't want to lay down my baby :)
 

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drog said:
not a real knowledgeable person about 12bars, but wouldnt it be more useful if it were taller?
The only thing wrong with the 12 bar is that it hasn't scraped the lettering off of it.

Get out there and practicwe with that thing. Get that thing a scarpin'. :cheers
 

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From back in da' day
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the cage is for slow speed crashes if it hits going fast it is gonna flip tips or not. The 12 bar is a bit thin man but if you get good at slow shit you wont need it anymore anyways. I kept mine on for parking it and apehangers, other than that it was just there.

using the bar


not using the bar


using the bar
 

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the bike looks good
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks guys,

i was thinking about putting some ABS plastic on the 12 bar, but i want to be able to stand it up and shoot sparks out at night. plus scrap the -No Limit- off the back so people know what is up. i was goign to machine down skateboard wheel and use them to plug up as frame sliders in the engine cage, but i haven't gotton to the skate store yet.

i'm still practicing, but i think i need a b***** rear sproket i have a 48 now i want to go up to a 52 or 55. but i'll see.
 

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CryptChappy said:
here are some pics of my modded F3 turned streetfighter. home built engine cage, home built 12 o'clock bar, home built from headlight plate. i still need to bash down the tank, but its about done, let me know what u think
For the cage you'll want to put delrin sliders where the motor mount is. Also it would be a good idea to put a brace from that point back to another motor mount. This will keep the cage from bending toward the rear and stripping the motormount.
For the 12 bar, it looks like the pieces going through the plastic are too weak. Most people use something like 1.5" X 3/16" steel for the sides and something simliar, or thicker, for the rear plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
f4rider said:
For the cage you'll want to put delrin sliders where the motor mount is. Also it would be a good idea to put a brace from that point back to another motor mount. This will keep the cage from bending toward the rear and stripping the motormount.
For the 12 bar, it looks like the pieces going through the plastic are too weak. Most people use something like 1.5" X 3/16" steel for the sides and something simliar, or thicker, for the rear plate.


the cage it fine, it been tested, it doesn't move. i don;t think u can see the support in the pic (it mounts right above the exhaust collector. on both sides). i'm not using expensive delrin sliders, i'm using milled skateboard wheels, and the 12 oclock bar is 1/4" steel already. if i were most people i would have bought the shit for $500 but i'm not, so i built it all for less then $20.
 

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CryptChappy said:
the cage it fine, it been tested, it doesn't move. i don;t think u can see the support in the pic (it mounts right above the exhaust collector. on both sides). i'm not using expensive delrin sliders, i'm using milled skateboard wheels, and the 12 oclock bar is 1/4" steel already. if i were most people i would have bought the shit for $500 but i'm not, so i built it all for less then $20.
i built all my stuff too, but it's still wise to barrow ideas and specks from designs that have been tested for years. A 12 bar made from 1.5"X3/16" will be stronger than one made from 1"X1/4" and will weight almost exactly the same. Now back to the cage... That is the main flaw with the FI cages. Because there is no brace where the main motor mount is, it tends to bend toward the rear fairly easy bending the bolt and/or breaking the frame tab and stripping the bolt. In this aspect, i think 905 and mxd cages are better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
f4rider said:
In this aspect, i think 905 and mxd cages are better.
i agree, but with my riding style i hit my shins on the 905s, thanks for the ideas, but i'll stick with what i got.
 

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Looks good! I wouldnt use the 12ve bar for stuff like bar tricks (apehangers, gardians etc) but as a tail light cage its great!

F3's kick ass!
 

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For some reason I can't see the pics. I was thinking about building my own cage, but I would have made it too ridgid anyway and would have broken the frame and everything! I did build my 12 bar, but haven't scrapped it yet, but it will stand on it...even with a drunk in a hula skirt on it! :eek:nfloor
 

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