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Discussion Starter #1
Don't I remember someone working at a dealership? I was talking with someone about a battery a year ago. I think I'm gonna need that battery and probably a starter relay.

As for the relay...since I'm sure you don't work in a priller shop, Honda part # 35850-HA8-771 will work just fine.

As to the battery...I'm looking for one of the following from Yuasa, in order of preference:

YTZ-14S (most preferred)
YTZ-12S
YTX-14BS
YTX-12BS (stock part)
 

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RC51 works at Yochum Motorsports
diamond works at Rob's Performance

I can check on those part #'s for you and let you know what my cost would be from Motosports Factory.
 

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Retail prices at Motosports factory (not including my discount)


starter relay...Honda part # 35850-HA8-771 $65

YTZ-14S ***they were unable to find this one for some reason, they're going to look into it for me***

YTZ-12S $136.95
YTX-14BS $83.95
YTX-12BS $79.95
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well...I don't object to paying a little more to a local shop vs the internet (I've lost a few local hobby shops and such due to the internet squeeze)...but..uh..I can get (Yuasa, not copies) YTZ14S to my door for $90. :O Several other places under $100 shipped.

That's about what I figured retail would be on the relay. Gotta check mine yet to make sure that's what's actually wrong.

Thanks for checking. Will keep those in mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Moses: You know if MSP has the solenoid in stock?

Mine's definitely screwed.

T
 

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Teej said:
but..uh..I can get (Yuasa, not copies) YTZ14S to my door for $90. :O Several other places under $100 shipped.
You'd have to call and see what the parts guys can do for ya. We carry Yuasa batteries. You can get them cheaper at Batteries Plus, but you get what you pay for. I'm not sure how much shipping would be due to the acid and such in a battery. You're probably better off picking it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well...I'm not so concerned with shipping a real Yuasa (and that's what I mentioned price on above) as it's a factory sealed unit - there's no acid to dump in like the interstate I have at the moment. I'm not in as big a hurry on the battery as the relay, however.

The relay has me dead in the water. The battery is a nuissance (that could cause more relays to go..heh...)
 

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Teej said:
Well...I'm not so concerned with shipping a real Yuasa (and that's what I mentioned price on above) as it's a factory sealed unit - there's no acid to dump in like the interstate I have at the moment. I'm not in as big a hurry on the battery as the relay, however.
If we order Honda parts before 10:30am, they usually come in the next afternoon.
 

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Teej said:
Well...I don't object to paying a little more to a local shop vs the internet (I've lost a few local hobby shops and such due to the internet squeeze)...but..uh..I can get (Yuasa, not copies) YTZ14S to my door for $90. :O Several other places under $100 shipped.
Unfortunately we've gotta do things like this from time to time. I would definately purchase more from brick and mortar stores if the prices were within a few dollars. But when you can save money (sometimes hundreds) purchasing online who wouldn't? I know that this hurts the local shops but we as consumers have to be concerned with our pocketbooks. For instance, the Pirelli Diablos I am currently riding on, I saved approx. $100 by purchasing online. I was going to get the Cheng Shin tires I've got on the xr50 online, but at the last minute MSF was able to get me a great price installed.


Teej said:
That's about what I figured retail would be on the relay. Gotta check mine yet to make sure that's what's actually wrong.
Teej, are you sure that's the right number for the relay/solenoid? If it is, I know where there is one in stock and my price would be $64 + tax.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Consider it sold, Bri. And I've read of other people using that part, so I'm pretty sure it'll work. As I understand it, it's even go the right connector on it.

Tanya: Thanks for looking into it - I appreciate it. Bri lives about 5 minutes away from me vs 45 out to you guys. Heh.

T
 

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Teej, check your PMs
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hahahah.

For what it's worth, in case anyone else happens to run into this problem...

The starter relay / solenoid, for those that don’t know, is a switch that lets a low-power (your ‘start’ button) circuit switch a high power circuit (the starter itself).

I don’t know if it’s a case of a poorly spec’d part or what yet, but what happens is if the starter stalls (fails to turn the engine) and you hold the starter (which I had for a second or two) hoping to get the engine to go…the excess power is distributed as heat. It seems that in this installation, one of the terminals on the relay takes a good bit of the heat…and partially melts the plastic cap on the solenoid. This allows the conductors to sit a few thousandths of an inch out of level with each other…the effect being that when you hit the starter, the conductor that gets “pulled down” across the contacts does not make solid contact and there’s not enough juice flowing to crank the starter. This results in what I ran into on Sunday – I barely got it started, melting the solenoid in the process, and rode out to where I needed to be. When it came time to come home, I hit the button and got nothing but a “click” in response. Ended up having to pushstart the bike.

Had I felt ballsy (and as positive that this was the problem as I suspected then) I could’ve jammed a screwdriver across the relay terminals to fire the starter and put up with a shower of sparks in the process.

Contrast this with Busas which, if you don't hold the starter long ENOUGH, the engine can kick back hard enough to crack the crankcase.
 
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