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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i'm not taking credit for this info. another member here told me, i dont remember his name. hey if it's YOU are reading this, thank you! im doing this is cuz i dont think this info is well known. of course i can be totally wrong, if so plz correct me. however i have observed this personally and i believe the info i'm presenting you is pretty dead on. ok here it goes.

after draining oil and you re-insert the drain bolt. set the torque wrench correctly according to the manual. as you are tightening the bolt you either over tighten or crack the oil pan when you haven't even reached the desired torque. WHY?

here's the answer:

I strongly believe that when the bike engineers were deciding what torque to put down in the manual for which bolt. they got the torque readings when the bolt and the threads were completely dry. dry means more friction.

so when you go re-insert your drain bolt and it's covered in oil, there's less friction. so with the same amount of torque the bolt will go further IN into the threads cuz it's well lubricated.

that's how it ends up being overtightened. i've seen too many people post threads about this and i have personally experienced this with my engine mount bolt where i lubed it with grease so it doesn't cease. guess what? i set torque wrench to 40 ft lb as indicated from the manual and the threads striped before i reached 30 ft lbs.


ok discuss.
 

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Drain plug bolts are no more than 12ftlbs. Your 40 is what took it out. You have a crush washer and that is going to squeeze some pound as it flattens, so that 40 pounds is that publisher owes you a drain case, crush washer, gasket, drain bolt, and a new manual that says no more than 12lbs foot.

:popcorn:eatpop
 

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He said engine mount bolt - I'd say an inaccurate torque wrench - what brand is it and how much did you pay for it? - oh and the wrench doesn't have N/m where you set it to 40 does it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Drain plug bolts are no more than 12ftlbs. Your 40 is what took it out. You have a crush washer and that is going to squeeze some pound as it flattens, so that 40 pounds is that publisher owes you a drain case, crush washer, gasket, drain bolt, and a new manual that says no more than 12lbs foot.

:popcorn:eatpop
learn to read whole sentences next time :twofinger :bitchslap
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
He said engine mount bolt - I'd say an inaccurate torque wrench - what brand is it and how much did you pay for it? - oh and the wrench doesn't have N/m where you set it to 40 does it?
plz dont make it sound like im a total noob with torque wrench :twofinger it's a mastercraft click wrench. cant be that far off. i unwind it after every use. so it been taken care of.

i've tightened the same engine mount bolt many times when it was dry at 40 ft lbs. no problems.
 

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plz dont make it sound like im a total noob with torque wrench :twofinger it's a mastercraft click wrench. cant be that far off. i unwind it after every use. so it been taken care of.
your a noob. <-thats a discussion ... discuss.
 

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Thanks for that. I had a bad day and now let me restate that. I would use the drain bolt as the torque wrench. I would think playing as an inner child you might tighten up your nuts buy hand.

Like someone said before, I forgot to read let alone type a complete sentence.
 

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What's the problem in here? This thread's not even a page long yet. We can do without the drama.
 

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There is wet torque and dry torque. The 2 should not be mixed as thread damage or a loose bolt could result. Personaly I never use a torque wrench on the drain bolt but all my drains are safety wired.
 

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You guys need to work on your right arm calibration. You don't want to tighten it down until it snaps, then back off a 1/4 turn!
 

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"...as thread damage or a loose bold could result." Well wait.. Both oil'd and dry bolts and nuts is how you assemble the bike. Sans the human error cross threading, you do not have to much damage to a bolt or nut if torqued to spec or even under-torqued, they pretty much hold their own.
Now, I will over-read everything so it makes more sense and all that detail.
 

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In all my years of wrenching I've never used a torque wrench on an oil drain plug. If you're paying attention when you break it loose you'll see that it doesn't take a lot of effort to loosen, so why do so many people tighten the crap out of the thing when they put it back in? :eatpop
 

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the joke is in your hand
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we need a post of shame where everyone that has stripped the oil drain plug is listed in it...so I can laugh at them.:twofinger

newbie wrenchers are all over forums and all of them swear up and down you need to use a torque wrench on everything or they act like it will blow up.:eek:nfloor
 

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In all my years of wrenching I've never used a torque wrench on an oil drain plug. If you're paying attention when you break it loose you'll see that it doesn't take a lot of effort to loosen, so why do so many people tighten the crap out of the thing when they put it back in? :eatpop
Same here man, I just put the bolt in, tighten it up until I feel it isn't going anywhere. Then drink a beer.

To be honest, I have stripped a drain bolt on my first bike and from there I learned my lesson after my old man spent a few hours fixing my mistake. He made damn sure I knew how to tighten a bolt while I was busy fetching him tools and running to the dealership for him while he was fixing it.
 

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the joke is in your hand
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also, you don't need a new crush washer every time you change the oil.. I have buddy that has a bag of them.:eek:nfloor
 

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Might part of the problem with tightening oil drain plugs be using an old crush-type washer that's already flattened? I always install a new one. Torque wrench or not, never had a problem.
 

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You guys need to work on your right arm calibration. You don't want to tighten it down until it snaps, then back off a 1/4 turn!
I'm with you, I really don't understand why you need a torque wrench for an oil drain bolt. It's not like it's a structural bolt that holds the bike together or keeps your wheel on. The damn thing just keeps oil in the pan !! tighten it snug (ie just enough so it doesn't back out) and your good.
 

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"...as thread damage or a loose bold could result." Well wait.. Both oil'd and dry bolts and nuts is how you assemble the bike. Sans the human error cross threading, you do not have to much damage to a bolt or nut if torqued to spec or even under-torqued, they pretty much hold their own.
Now, I will over-read everything so it makes more sense and all that detail.
Cross threading has nothing to do with dry or wet torque. The dry or wet torque is specified by the product manufacturer. Case in point is the conecting rod bolts. If you miss apply a dry or wet torque serious engine damage could accur. Another example are the wheel halfs on some aircraft that are bolted together. The wet torque and lubricant is specified in the maintenance manual.
 

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Yeah I've never used a torque wrench on the oil drain bolt?
 
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