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Ive looked at the manual and read others experience with their oil change but so far all ive read were different opinions of how to do it. "dont do this or you'll break that" "be careful or this might come off". All this has got me too scared to even try. Need help on oil change. My engine is working hella hard right now because its overdue. preciate it.
 

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1) Warm bike up for several minutes

2) Put a drain pan under the bike (if it's big enough, put the side stand in the pan. I have a large piece of cardboard that I use on my bike and truck to minimize cleanup.)

3) Remove drain plug and drain into pan.

4) Remove oil filter

5) Replace filter

6) Wait for oil to finish draining then replace drain plug

7) re-fill with approx. 3 quarts of motorcycle oil

8) Check oil level

9) Start bike and let it warm up to make sure the oil light doens't come on. Look for any oil leakes

10) Shut off bike and let it sit for several minutes.

11) Recheck oil level, adding oil IF necessary

12) Go for a ride!

Not that difficult, and no reason to be afraid of it.
 

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Before starting make sure the bike is upright on center stand and warmed up.

1) Carefully loosen and remove the filler cap, then the pan bolt.
2) Drain.
3) Gorilla the filter off.
4) Hand tighten new filter on, make sure to coat the gasket in fresh oil first. You can optionally choose to fill the canister no more than half way with new oil if you want to be extra careful.
4) Hand tighten the pan bolt, don't use any tools until it's threaded as far as you can get with your hands the last thing you want to do is strip this thing. Sounds scary, sure, but it's not, it's easy and even the simplest precaution will prevent it. Now tighten it good with a wrench.
5) Fill with your favourite oil, anything within specificaiton from the manual will work, it's a matter of opinion and there will be no shortage of them from the people here. When they tell you that you need to use a zip tie when changing the oil, ignore them!
6) Start the bike, make sure the oil dummy light doesn't stay on, turn off, check oil level, if it's fine you're done if not, fix it.

Whoops, I was beaten to the reply, how is this board for service? My instructions are better though so listen to me. ;)
 

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if you havent changed the oil in a vehicle i wouldnt suggest a bike
 

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I disagree, it's easier to change the oil in the bike than the car... it's not like you have to jack the thing up, find the support points for axle stands, block the wheels, get underneath something heavy enough to kill you if it were to fall, and get oil all over yourself .. blah blah blah. Bike = easy.
 

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Binary Jay said:
I disagree, it's easier to change the oil in the bike than the car... it's not like you have to jack the thing up, find the support points for axle stands, block the wheels, get underneath something heavy enough to kill you if it were to fall, and get oil all over yourself .. blah blah blah. Bike = easy.
I have a couple guys on R6's that are jealous of how easy it is to change the oil on the FZ.

My truck is a little more difficult, but not quite. I don't even have to jack it up, just crank the wheel all the way to the left. I can reach my drain plug through the wheel well *happy dance*.

I think a combination of our directions is better. You added some things that I didn't think of, and I find it easier to change the oil while it's on the side stand, not on the center stand.
 

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I forgot to emphasize to make sure the new filter is on before filling the oil... I almost started my car once filled with new oil without the filter, man what a mess that would have made. :)
 

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Binary Jay said:
I forgot to emphasize to make sure the new filter is on before filling the oil... I almost started my car once filled with new oil without the filter, man what a mess that would have made. :)
That's why I put the new filter on immediately after taking the old one off. I'm too scatter brained and it's too easy for me to forget to do it.

But our point is...it's NOT that difficult to do. Just pay attention to what you're doing and it'll be a snap.
 

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Ride Naked
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What's the deal with warming it up first? Is there REALLY some benifit to it? Or is it just more fun to scald yourself with hot oil? :confused:

Hyunmin84... try it, you'll like it. There's nothing easier.
 

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crx81 said:
What's the deal with warming it up first? Is there REALLY some benifit to it? Or is it just more fun to scald yourself with hot oil? :confused:

Hyunmin84... try it, you'll like it. There's nothing easier.
Don't warm it up to the point where the oil burns (god THAT sucks). Just warm it up enough so that the oil is a little thinner. It'll drain faster.
 

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Piece of cake, just listen to what the guys above have said. Takes about 30 minutes tops. Save some money and learn a little about your ride in the process. A filter wrench may be necessary as some people, especially the factory, love to tighten that baby up! Rememer to only hand tighten it a half turn past contact. Snug is all you need. And definitely lube the rubber gasket with fresh oil. Specs for how much to fill should be in your manual, online or call your dealer. Good luck!!
 

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Two reasons:

1) Lowers the viscoscity, drains faster and more completely. Less of the old oil will want to stick to the surfaces in the crankcase this way.
2) More importantly, running it for a few minutes stirs that old crud up that would otherwise just settle at the bottom of the oil pan in the cruddiest of sludge that would not want to come out otherwise. Remember, you don't just want to get the oil out you want to get all of the crap into suspension first.
3) Unless you want to look foolish and stick your face underneath the drain plug and pretend you're working on your car, the hotness of the oil really doesn't matter, at least not to me. I've never burned myself on oil changing the oil on my cage, I always burn myself on those hot exhaust headers reaching past them to get to the filter though. :bitchslap

crx81 said:
What's the deal with warming it up first? Is there REALLY some benifit to it? Or is it just more fun to scald yourself with hot oil? :confused:

Hyunmin84... try it, you'll like it. There's nothing easier.
 

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Binary Jay said:
Two reasons:

1) Lowers the viscoscity, drains faster and more completely. Less of the old oil will want to stick to the surfaces in the crankcase this way.
2) More importantly, running it for a few minutes stirs that old crud up that would otherwise just settle at the bottom of the oil pan in the cruddiest of sludge that would not want to come out otherwise. Remember, you don't just want to get the oil out you want to get all of the crap into suspension first.
3) Unless you want to look foolish and stick your face underneath the drain plug and pretend you're working on your car, the hotness of the oil really doesn't matter, at least not to me. I've never burned myself on oil changing the oil on my cage, I always burn myself on those hot exhaust headers reaching past them to get to the filter though. :bitchslap
The headers are definitely the worst, though the oil isn't all that great either.

Or you could just get one of these
 

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I'd suggest you use the side stand rather than the center stand, helps the oil drain. Also, I cut a short section of the cardboard tube from gift wrap and put it on the exhaust under the drain plug so the oil doesn't get on the pipes.
 

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I have a valve made by FRAM on the cage, and I love it.
 

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Heavy FZ6 said:
I'd suggest you use the side stand rather than the center stand, helps the oil drain. Also, I cut a short section of the cardboard tube from gift wrap and put it on the exhaust under the drain plug so the oil doesn't get on the pipes.
I second that, the side stand tips the bike in the direction of the drain plug. Helps drain more of the oil that way vs the center stand.
And another good point is to put something between the pipes and oil pan. First time I drained my oil I didn't put anything in there and got a nice large pool of oil where the 4 pipes merge to 1. I just take a few pieces of paper towle & fold them up, then stuff them in between the pipes and pan. But anything that will soak up and/or block the oil from gettin under teh pan and onto the pipes will work. Just don't forget to take it out when you done, you don't want something soaked with oil layin on your pipes as you ride and they start gettin hot.
 

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We all learn something new every day.

Here's a good tip, use Loctite Threadlocker 277 on the drain plug before you tighten it back in to make sure that it doesn't come loose! :p
 

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RE: Fram Oil Drain Bolt Valve...

crx81 said:
Those are pretty slick. I've thought about getting one. No problems from it?
None so far, and I've gone through about 5 oil changes with it. It doesn't leak one bit, but it has a machined metal cover that screws over the valve anyway "just in case".

It sure makes the job a lot less messy, just screw the supplied tube and valve opener onto the valve bolt and out comes the oil through the tube directly into your recepticle... of course, I usually make a mess anyway doing things like burning myself on exhaust headers and dropping oil filters full of filthy oil into the engine bay.
 

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Binary Jay said:
We all learn something new every day.

Here's a good tip, use Loctite Threadlocker 277 on the drain plug before you tighten it back in to make sure that it doesn't come loose! :p
You should probably let the nervous newb know that you are only joking about the Threadlock compound...just in case.
 
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