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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This thread has instructions on how to replace your neutral safety switch. This is the switch that tells the bike that the transmission is in neutral, allows the bike to start with the clutch engaged and run with the sidestand down, and activates the green light on the dash.

This is not the same as the clutch switch that activates when you pull the clutch in.

Anyway, the repair is extremely easy, but it's always nice to see what you need to do in advance. It takes about 20 minutes.

Here is the new switch which I got on warranty from the dealer. They were happy to just give it to me since they wouldn't have to do the repair.




The switch is installed on the lower left side just behind the fairing.




Take off the left fairing to make it easier to access and remove.




Use pliers to lightly pull off the wire. The metal part loosely grips around the switch part but doesn't require tools to remove.




Here's the switch with the wire pulled off.



continued...
 

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Finally got that ticket
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Discussion Starter #2
Use the 14 mm wrench included with the bike's toolkit to remove it.




This was the hardest part of the repair. The switch was really stuck in there and I had trouble turning it. Once it did finally go, it went with a vengeance, and my hand slipped and slammed into the sidestand, cutting it a little bit. Use a socket and ratchet if you have one.




Unscrew and pull out the switch and the washer that's on it. Be ready with a small pan or rag, and be ready to put the new switch on quickly, since a little oil will drip out. I was not really ready for the oil, and I still only got this much spillage:




Don't forget to put the washer on the new switch!

No signs of a problem with the old switch.




Put the wire back on the new switch.

 

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Very nice!
Thank you!

I've been having problems with my neutral light being goofy and people have been telling me to check my switch.

Now I know where to look!

:cheers
 

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ok i put a jumper on my handle switch so nomatter what was going on it was making contact all the time on all 3 wires. I just put a thing or solder all the way across them. now the "N" is lite up all the time the key is on and it will start with it in gear and with the stand down i can drive off. is this a sign of the 1 u replaced being bad also?
 

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ok i put a jumper on my handle switch so nomatter what was going on it was making contact all the time on all 3 wires. I just put a thing or solder all the way across them. now the "N" is lite up all the time the key is on and it will start with it in gear and with the stand down i can drive off. is this a sign of the 1 u replaced being bad also?
So the neutral light stays on when the switch is on, even if the bike is in gear? I'd fix that, because once the bike is started, how do you know if it is in gear or not? If the indicator is on, and you let out on the clutch, the bike would jump off the sidestand, correct? Maybe I am misunderstanding... Either way I would fix it. It sounds like you bypassed it, which may not be a good thing if I am understanding what you are saying...
 

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Finally got that ticket
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Discussion Starter #7
I think what Ray is saying is right. You seem to have bypassed or shorted across that part of the circuit, creating a false closed-circuit even when the switch is open. I'm not sure if the switch can fail-closed, but mine didn't. When mine failed, it was open-circuit all the time.

Your situation does sound dangerous, since the bike will allow you to ride with the sidestand down, which could be very bad.

Very nice!
Thank you!

I've been having problems with my neutral light being goofy and people have been telling me to check my switch.

Now I know where to look!
Thanks, glad it helped!
 
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