Sport Bikes banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
what's up bitches
Joined
·
1,382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Damn, when will I stop being a noob? LOL.. probably when I fix all the crap on my bike and I actually have a running bike. Geez.


Anyway, first off thanks to the forum members that have been great help so far. I can't help but think I'll get flamed everytime I make another thread about an issue I cant seem to solve :D


Well, remember I got my first bike last week. It's a 1995 YZF600r w/ 31k miles. Salvaged title. But at $1100.. honestly it needs work and it aint the best bike, but for $1100, it's great. I mean I can't find any other bike for $1100 that's not old, broken, beat up, or stolen. On top of that the seller is a great guy and went to UCLA ... like me and i also have the opportunity to fix and repair the bike with him and myself instead of spending money on the dealer's service dept.

Well here's the situation. I need new rear tires (has a plug right now), new rear sprockets but need the whole chain and sprocket setup cause it's better to replace together. I need front pads, and I think front rotors. And a new battery.

Yesterday I took the bike in to the dealer to do some paperwork and the service guy and I talked about the bike and how much i got it for. He was telling me it's gonna ask me a couple hundred bucks to repair it and i can probably find a better bike. But honestly, for $1100 I can't. And so anyway, I need new front brake pads cause it's making noise right now when I just push the bike. NO pads whatsoever right now. It's just metal to metal basically. The guy mentioned that to me and he says "Yeah you need new pads. But whatever..you can't do any more damage to the rotors than it already has." So im like "I need new rotors??" and he says yeah. I felt it and At the edges, I guess it has a little lip thing but not big. The service guy said if i dont replace the rotors and just get the pads.. the pad life is going to decrease more and more everytime I replace it.


Now here's my question. What should I do about the rotors? Replace them? I mean, OEM wise, it's at least $300 for the pair. That's something I can't afford. Which is why I'm looking frantically on ebay, and also trying to see if I can use other bikes' rotors on my 1995 yzf600r. Do you think it'd be okay for me to get just the front brake pads?

keep in mind that this bike isn't a 2005 Hayabusa. It's my first bike, that's been spray painted black and has chips and scratches. Has a salvage title but I mean, the bike itself is good.

With that said, what do you think? Oh yeah, the seller came by today cause I freaked out yesterday. The bike didn't start up after I took it for a ride. We jumped it and it started today and we left it on for about 20 minutes to charge. Then it wouldn't start again. The Honda dealer said the battery is dead. Great, so i need a new battery.. but at least I know that was the problem. The reason why he came by was because I asked him if I can give him the bike back. He said okay and that's why he came by. But after he fixed the stuff, I had second thoughts.. and ebay is a life saver. So what do you think? I told him to give me until tmw to think it over and he said okay. He's a great guy btw.


What ebay and forum has done. For the battery, i can get a brand new battery for about $35shipped. The sprocket and chain deal, I can get a JT steel set (with any teeth configuration) for about $110. And then, rear tires I think I found one for free from a forum member. So that leaves the front brake pads, which is $60. But i'm looking to see if other bike parts will work. And of course the rotors. Thanks, and all help is appreciated.

-David, frantic and panic mode newbie in search for answers. :D
 

·
Light it up! Light it up!
Joined
·
1,459 Posts
you should replace the rotors if they are worn funny and not flat anymore. Look in the vendor section on this board. There are people that can hook you up with almost dealer cost on OEM Yamaha parts (i'm assuming that they can get parts for a '95). That should give you a break on some of the parts you need.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
813 Posts
Your battery won't charge by just leaving it on. your RPM has to be at 2,000 or 3,000 to start the charge... that's why your bike didn't start.

I can't help you with your other questions.. sorry
 

·
Smiley Gladhands
Joined
·
3,050 Posts
Here's a set of FZR rotors on ebay with bidding starting at $10...

Ebay Auction

It's very important to learn to ride on a bike that is mechanically sound. If you can't afford to fix it, you can't afford to ride it!
 

·
SBN Rookie ;-)
Joined
·
686 Posts
Can you machine motorcycle rotors?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,276 Posts
I don't think you could pay me to take that bike. If the guy who owned it couldn't be bothered to do basic maintenance necessary to make the bike safe like replacing brake pads or a rear tire with a hole in it, I can't imagine the rest of the bike is in particularly good shape, either. Add in the salvage title, and I definitly wouldn't touch that bike. The absolute minimum to make that bike roadworthy is probably going to be around $300-400, and that's if you don't replace or turn down the rotors. This means you're talking about a total investment of $1400-1500 just to get on the road, and with the bike in such poor shape it's probably going to need more work before too long. To compare, a friend of mine just sold a 91 GS500E in perfect mechanical and 75% cosmetic shape for $1200, and I thought he ripped the guy off.

If I were you, I would look for something different. As a new rider, you really want something that works right, not a clunker that's falling apart underneath you.
 

·
what's up bitches
Joined
·
1,382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Ah thanks.. Thanks for the ebay link freeky929.

To R.Brosman, yeah that's what i was thinking and when i tell people about the repairs they say just sell it cause even if it's cheap, you gotta figure at least $300-400 in all the little stuff. That's what I thought but when you think about it.. i got deals on some stuff so it won't cost as much. The new battery I can get for $35 shipped which is a great deal compared to the original $55+tax. Rear tires I already got for free from a forum member. Brake pads are $60 for the whole front setup. The sprocket setup (IF i get new) will at most be $110 cause I got a nice deal on steel JT sprockets and chains. But if i go used, I can get used sprockets and chains for $55 shipped. All that is like, at most $200. At most. And the reason why I'm not paying the supposed $300-400 is for one reason, I don't have to pay the dealers for parts cause I found great deals, AND no labor fees at all. The seller lives 5 min away and he said he'll help me with the chain and sprockets, and all that good stuff. Again its just me but to me, i thought it was a good deal on the bike. THe bike runs good though cause i test rode it. none of the gears pop out or anything either. And the reason why the brake pads and all this isn't changed is cause the seller got another bike. If you had a better bike, id doubt youd spend any money on the sold beater right? :D well, he crashed his new one and repaired it so that's why he's been using this one for a little bit. But i guess that's the reason.


About the rotors. I need some help accessing the problem. Cause maybe it's not that bad. I tried to see if they were warped but you cant tell by looking at them. They look straight. And i took my fingers and placed them on the very inside of the rotors, and slowly slid them toward the outside to feel the grooves or roughness on them. It doesn't feel that bad.. it's still pretty smooth, but once again, there's a small lip at the edge. Some people said it was normal which I hope i dont have to get new rotors then.


EDIT: Found out that it matches. Thanks
 

·
No limit hypocrite
Joined
·
1,695 Posts
Hey Superstud.. I think buying a fixer-upper bike is an AWESOME idea.. You will be more familiar with your bike, how to maintain it, and have better mechanical knowledge than a lot of riders on here have..

I bought a totaled 94 Seca II for my first bike, rebuilt it from the ground up.. I knew that bike inside and out, and because of that, EVERYBODY asks me how to "fix this sound, fix this vibration".. You'll love the knowledge you gain later..

Anyway.. Stealerships make most of their money off repairs. If they can make you think ANYTHING is wrong with your bike, they'll tell you they need to replace it. If your rotors are flat (take them off, and lay them on a table to see if they are warped), and are not grooved, then they are fine.. You dont need to replace them. Hell, even if they ARE grooved, they're still fine, they'll just burn that groove pattern into your pads, and use them a little faster than normal, but Brake pads are cheap.

Edit: more about rotors.. small ridges in your rotor are NORMAL.. your rotor is NOT supposed to be glass smooth, or it would squeal and vibrate like crazy... Small ridges are what you want.. Large ridges, from Rivets burning into your rotor are bad, and you can have your rotors turned if they arent too bad.. That small ridge at the top is also supposed to be there. I have never met a stealership that offered to turn the rotors, they always want to replace them..
 

·
what's up bitches
Joined
·
1,382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks punkwood. Yeah I was kind of thinking, they were exaggerating a bit. I mean, after all it was the service guy that told me that. LOL And I looked at it and it doesn't seem to be warped but can't really tell. So I guess that's a good thing. There are grooves I think but not that much. With the fingers you can barely feel the grooves.. almost like you're running your hands over .. uh damn I have no example. Crap. (I was thinking for about a minute trying to finish this sentence) Oh well.. yeah and anyway, I found rotors on ebay for $10!!! Well it has 3 days left but still. They came off a race bike but the place selling it just got them and never installed them. Actually it's the link up there posted by freeky929. Thanks freeky. With 10 bucks for new rotors, cant go wrong. :)

Oh yeah, anyone ever try a battery tender? Like... first off, how long can you keep your headlights ON (on your bike) without the ignition before it drains the battery. I left the lights on without ignition for only about 4 minutes. maybe 5.. but when i came back to it, it wouldnt start. Then we jumped it.. and it died again. So we jumped it again, ran it for about 30 minutes at idle.. but it died again. So we took the battery and got it tested and they said it's completely dead. Now, would a battery tender bring it back to life? or will tha tjust be delaying a problem of getting a new battery anyway. Thanks
 

·
Light it up! Light it up!
Joined
·
1,459 Posts
if your battery won't hold a charge then you will need to replace it. a battery tender is just a charger.

if you got the battery tested and they said it was dead (i.e. won't hold a charge) then you need a new one.

a battery tender is good, for example, to use over winter when the bike doesn't run for a while and you leave the battery in the bike. it kicks on and charges the battery when it needs too and kicks off when the battery is full of charge. you leave it plugged into the wall and the battery the entire time.

a tender will not fix your battery if it cannot hold a charge.
 

·
Smiley Gladhands
Joined
·
3,050 Posts
Good luck with the repairs! I agree with the others here who said that you made the right decision to buy a fixer-upper. It's the best decision when buying your first bike.
 

·
No limit hypocrite
Joined
·
1,695 Posts
SqDancerLynn1 said:
Motorcycle rotors can not be turned, When you replace the pads you should clean them with a scotchbright pad or 180 grit wet/dry paper
HUH?? who says you cant machine your rotors??? Why do you think they are required to put MINIMUM THICKNESS stamps on them?? Whats the difference between Car Rotors and bike Rotors??? I've had mine turned, and they were fine..

Honestly, if there is a reason not to, tell me.. I've only had a stealership tell me they cant turn them and then "we will sell you a new set for $300".. I dont believe a damn thing a stealership tells me.. My wife works for one, and I barely believe her... :lao
 

·
what's up bitches
Joined
·
1,382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well the service guy said, "we can't surface your rotors like a car part. you gotta buy new rotors. I suggest you sell the bike before you're in too deep". kind of makes me wonder cause it's a Kawasaki dealer and I have a yamaha. I didn't take it in for service or anything... so not sure if he was really trying to sell me on the new rotors deal.


I felt the rotors once again.. and there's like a small very miniscule "bump" as you move your fingers from the inside to the outside lip. I dont think it'll be too bad. :D
 

·
Mexican Hard Shell Taco
Joined
·
5,896 Posts
EBC HH Brake pads $60 (at least for my Katana, and that is the price here)

Rotors $300 (In the US, probably more here)


Fawck the stealership, I'll get new pads with the old rotors. 5 sets of pads for 1 set of rotors?


And don't believe them, every rotor will have that "lip" after some use, and you don't see people replacing their rotors everytime they replace the pads!

By the way, the lip will be formed on a new rotor very fast as the rotor gets "polished" by the new pads, after that the wear will be less. After replacing the pads the only "unusual" wear will be while the pads get the pattern of the rotor itself, after that they will be like if both had been replaced at the same time.

And if you do decide to replace the rotors, look for aftermarket alternatives. OEM parts aren't known to be the cheapest parts out there.
 

·
what's up bitches
Joined
·
1,382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
hah yeah. SCREW oem parts! I'll try and find all these things on ebay. i already found a good deal on a new battery for $35 shipped, rotors if no one bids.., and chains for about 30-50 bucks brand new xring. front sprockets like 12 shipped. and all i need is the rear sprocket and the rear tire.


The forum member thats giving me his old rear tires.. says that it's 1 mm away from the wear bar. What does that mean? Dang, i dont even know how to tell if the tires worn, other than looking at it and trying to guess. Is the rear tire worth the trouble? He's giving it for rear, it's a 30 minute drive not too far.. the only thing i'd consider is the mounting and balancing thing for about $15. Right now, my rear tire is worn and there's an outside plug so that's dangerous.
 

·
No limit hypocrite
Joined
·
1,695 Posts
Superstuddc27 said:
well the service guy said, " I suggest you sell the bike before you're in too deep".
Which wouldve been followed immediately by "Lets see what I have on the showroom floor for you".. stealerships are nothing, if not predictable.
 

·
what's up bitches
Joined
·
1,382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Punkwood2k said:
Which wouldve been followed immediately by "Lets see what I have on the showroom floor for you".. stealerships are nothing, if not predictable.

Haha yeah. I actually came in about 2 months ago and sat on one of their new ninja250's. It wasn't the same guy but i'm sure if he got me to sell the bike, he would just talk me into a new bike. :D Well i decided to fix her up. Actually I did the math and if i win the ebay stuff, i can get all those repairs done for anywhere from $200-$240. Not bad eh? For sprockets and chains, new battery, rotors and brake pads. :)
 

·
Mexican Hard Shell Taco
Joined
·
5,896 Posts
$15 to mount a tire??? Man, THAT IS CHEAP! I paid $20 for each on my bike...

But don't get the used tire, too much trouble and 1mm is nothing on bike tires. When I got my Katana the rear was like that, 1000 miles later it was almost bald (like half mm left of thread in the center).

Ride the current tire 'till it is bald, don't worry about the plug too much. It is your first bike, you shouldn't be riding it so fast as to make the plug a problem. You'll hear here that plugged tires will blow on you, rape you and then kill your family, but riding at the speed limits will be fine for a plugged tire, just don't try to take it to the track or run the twisties like you were Rossi.

"Junkers" as the wealthy riders call them are not a good deal for people who take the bike to the shop for every repair, they usually get ripped off and end up paying more for the repairs than if they had got a good bike to begin with.
If you are a good DIY mechanic, a junker can be a very good choice.


I've spent about $300 on spares for my 'Tuna, bad huh? Not that bad if you consider the other options I had. I got a bike with low miles that needed some work, instead of a high mileage bike with an almost blown engine that needed "no work" (it could be running fine for the moment, but had the engine blow up in a few thousand miles).
If I had taken my bike to a shop or stealership to have those parts installed and the repairs done, I would already have a $1000 bill waiting to be paid for...

And now I have a 'Tuna that is running way better than every other single bike I saw when I was looking to buy.
 

·
what's up bitches
Joined
·
1,382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Süsser Tod said:
$15 to mount a tire??? Man, THAT IS CHEAP! I paid $20 for each on my bike...

But don't get the used tire, too much trouble and 1mm is nothing on bike tires. When I got my Katana the rear was like that, 1000 miles later it was almost bald (like half mm left of thread in the center).

Ride the current tire 'till it is bald, don't worry about the plug too much. It is your first bike, you shouldn't be riding it so fast as to make the plug a problem. You'll hear here that plugged tires will blow on you, rape you and then kill your family, but riding at the speed limits will be fine for a plugged tire, just don't try to take it to the track or run the twisties like you were Rossi.

"Junkers" as the wealthy riders call them are not a good deal for people who take the bike to the shop for every repair, they usually get ripped off and end up paying more for the repairs than if they had got a good bike to begin with.
If you are a good DIY mechanic, a junker can be a very good choice.


I've spent about $300 on spares for my 'Tuna, bad huh? Not that bad if you consider the other options I had. I got a bike with low miles that needed some work, instead of a high mileage bike with an almost blown engine that needed "no work" (it could be running fine for the moment, but had the engine blow up in a few thousand miles).
If I had taken my bike to a shop or stealership to have those parts installed and the repairs done, I would already have a $1000 bill waiting to be paid for...

And now I have a 'Tuna that is running way better than every other single bike I saw when I was looking to buy.

Haha i meant $15 for each wheel as well. Which isn't much different from the $20. Well i only need to mount the rear anyway that's why. As for the repairs... yeah it would've been VERY expensive if a) i didn't have all the labor taken care of. It's me and the seller (probably a new friend now) cause he lives 5 minutes away and he said he'll help me with the sprockets and all that and while we work on that, i can go get the tires mounted. :D b) if I didn't use ebay or the forum.

Man can you imagine how much these repairs would run me if I had to pay for labors and got them without a deal? At least $150 for the rear tires and mounting, $150 for chain and sprockets and another $50-100 for labor on that, rotors would cost $300 without labor, brake pads are the same, $65 on a new battery. WOW...that would have sucked. :D
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top