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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My bike is 07 I bought it with 700 miles on it The girl i got it from said it was stock the bike run great no problems. (Miles now is 1500 hundred) I have added a Yosi RS3 slip-on (Thats it) I wanted to check the Air Filter and Plugs, So i took the bike apart last night The Air Filter is OEM-Stock little dirty and all four plugs look good maybe a little rich, But I am at 4200FT above sea level. I was looking at the carbs and I noticed the float bowls had allen bolts not the soft screws and the PMS have Not been drill out Just wondering if some one changed the jets or could Kawaski have sent the bike with allen bolts on the float bowls. Thinking of pulling the carbs to check jets and drill PMS .....BUT THE BIKE RUNS GREAT AS IS.
 

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So I'm confused... you want to tear down a bike that runs great? Why break it to try and fix it if nothing is wrong?

On a side note... I'd snag a different air filter. Everyone will tell you K&N, but I just know how crappy the stock filters are. Anything is better than those.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
NO I don't want to take the carbs off or tear into them Just thinking while the tank and air filter is off, And I noticed the float bowls with allen bolts I am just wondering what jets are in there and after looking at the plugs. I have a K&N air filter and a Factory Pro Advancer Just never installed them wanted to check things out before I install K&N and Advancer. (When I do install the K&N Air filter it will change the A/F Ratio) I know about shimming the carbs,Rejeting,and adjusting pms Just not sure what I want to do. (Bike runs great as is) Look at the Plugs (Little Rich ?)
 

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That's the first time I'd heard someone saying the stock filter is crap on the ZZR. *shrug*

If you're changing your plugs Mike, I'd go with the iridium. ZZRocket highly recommends them and he's about as knowledgable on ZZRs are you're going to find around here. I have mine on order from ebay. $35 for a 4-pack. I had to pay shipping where I'm in Canada, but the seller was offering free shipping to most domestic locations.

** And Ray too. If either of these guys can't help you with a ZZR/ZX6J issue, I don't know who can.
 

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I've found that both of the air filters I've removed from two separate ZZRs, just crumble. Now that could be the age, along with other factors, but I've never had that problem with the K&N.
 

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Carb'ed bikes are always going to run rich at higher elevations. Your at 4200 ft above sea level. I'm only 990 ft above sea level here in Indiana and my A/F mixture screws are at 2 turns. Your A/F mixture is more than likely still at the factory settings. As for the allen screws I would love to change mine over. They were a bitch to get out the first time when rayzzr and I rejetted it in NC. I guess the rich thing is sort of a safety net as you wouldn't want to run it to lean risking burning up a piston or a valve.
 

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Carb'ed bikes are always going to run rich at higher elevations. Your at 4200 ft above sea level. I'm only 990 ft above sea level here in Indiana and my A/F mixture screws are at 2 turns. Your A/F mixture is more than likely still at the factory settings. As for the allen screws I would love to change mine over. They were a bitch to get out the first time when rayzzr and I rejetted it in NC. I guess the rich thing is sort of a safety net as you wouldn't want to run it to lean risking burning up a piston or a valve.
Someone could make decent coin making up kits to swap the carb screws for allen heads. Someone in the ZRXOA did that and I have all allens on my Keihin carbs for that bike. Would love to do the same on the ZZR. Those screws are torqued too much and are too soft. So easy to round them off. Also, the pitch of the head is different - best to use the screwdriver that came with the bike.

If the plugs are tan, then the A/F ratio is close to ideal. Too dark and you are rich, too white and it is too lean.

Jay - rejetting the ZZR this weekend to the smallest in the DJ kit. If that is still too rich or goes the other way and is too lean (doubtful) then I will break down and buy new jets. I'll try and have dyno sheets to compare to our last runs. The real test would be to have Wheeler run it again, since comparing dyno sheets from two different setups is like apples and oranges...
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I think i will first try installing the K&N air filter and shim the carbs maybe that will keep the bike were it's at now a little rich or just right for my elevation 4200 (Just Not sure shimming the carbs will be enough with the increased air flow of of the K&N ???) I have seen alot of you that shimmed the carbs have now rejetted - Anyone... Or maybe just clean OEM air filter and leve the bike were it's at running fine. I know how to do these mods, Just not sure what one i want to do. Have had all the parts for over a year.
 

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I'd get an Ivan's kit if all you want is power. If you want to balance the A/F properly and get decent power and fuel economy get a Dynojet and have the bike dynoed. I just went to 118 inners and 116 outers on the jets. I do think I will need a half turn out on the fuel screws to work with the new jets. At altitude I'd likely be fine with 2x out. The DJ kit plugs the air jets and pressurizes the fuel delivery, which I presume allows more fuel to be delivered with smaller jets than without. Just my thoughts on why. Even the stock jets are rich, as are most of the jets in the Dynojet kit. Ivan's kit is a one size fits all and he will chastise you if you do not exactly follow his instructions. You will like the power gain, but not so much on drop in fuel economy...
 

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I been fiddling with my idle screws.

2.25 works best for me.

2.0 to lean

2.5 to fat

K&N filter
DJ kit
Slipon
+4 advancer

I picked up a set of E3 sparkies, will be installed soon.

Do I need to go from under the tank to install or from behind the radiator to get access, its been awhile sense I have done this.
 

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Haha... Thanks. It's taken a few years, but I think I finally have her the way I want her. Only thing I wish I wouldn't have done was polish the frame... If I could do it all over again, I would have just painted it black. But it's way too much work to undo what I've already done! lol
 

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I been fiddling with my idle screws.

2.25 works best for me.

2.0 to lean

2.5 to fat

K&N filter
DJ kit
Slipon
+4 advancer

I picked up a set of E3 sparkies, will be installed soon.

Do I need to go from under the tank to install or from behind the radiator to get access, its been awhile sense I have done this.

Huh?? "Do I need to go from under the tank to install or from behind the radiator to get access, its been awhile sense I have done this." You are the last person I would see asking this question. But that's cool:) Here.... http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/zzr-mods/398469-plug-change-procedure.html

It's funny how a small change in elevation can change the A/F mixture. Your 600 ft and I'm at 990 ft. I'm running 2 turns out and your at 2 1/4 turns out.
 

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I been fiddling with my idle screws.

2.25 works best for me.

2.0 to lean

2.5 to fat

K&N filter
DJ kit
Slipon
+4 advancer

I picked up a set of E3 sparkies, will be installed soon.

Do I need to go from under the tank to install or from behind the radiator to get access, its been awhile sense I have done this.
Which jets are you running? We have basically the same setup (don't you have a Euro ECU as well?), and we are at equal elevation... I just went from 120 inners/118 outers to 118 inners/116 outers (smallest in DJ kit). Seems lean even at idle, so will try a quarter to half turn on AF screws.

Oh, and Jay and I are running NGK Iridiums with good results...
 

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Someone could make decent coin making up kits to swap the carb screws for allen heads. Someone in the ZRXOA did that and I have all allens on my Keihin carbs for that bike. Would love to do the same on the ZZR. Those screws are torqued too much and are too soft. So easy to round them off. Also, the pitch of the head is different - best to use the screwdriver that came with the bike.
JIS Screws. A set of JIS screwdrivers can save you lots of trouble:

jis

Basically, regular screwdrivers do not go in fully into the screw head, that's why you end up rounding the damn screws.
 
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