Sport Bikes banner

61 - 76 of 76 Posts

·
The Flying Finn
Joined
·
2,594 Posts
That sucks! I wonder if he didn't do that good a job "lining things up" last time!?! I'd be tempted to jump the kill switch and ride it for a while and see if that's the problem.

Ron Ayers has the kill switch assembly for $45... 5VX-83975-01-00
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,393 Posts
I'd like to know where your bike was when you went to the dealership.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
Im no expert when it comes to these kind of problems, but it does sound pretty close to the tps issues im having with my 2004 bike at the moment. It will ride for an unspecified amount of time fine. You come to a stop at a junction and the bike dies. Restart and it wont run properly. Like its missing, wont rev cleanly etc. Let go of the throttle and it dies. Turn the ignition off and then on and then the bikes fine again for an unspecified amount of time.

Ive had the orange engine management light come on as well. Every time you check the tps in diagnostic it shows within spec. But to enter diag mode means turning ignition off and then fault does not show.

My bike thankfully is covered by the yam recall. My tps was never changed. I will report back as my bike is in the dealership to have tps changed under recall.

Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,525 Posts
Yes, it abruptly died.

When it died on the freeway, no amount of fiddling would get it to start.... I fiddled with it, the bridge patrol guy fiddled with it, and the tow truck driver fiddled with it. We were all stumped. It didn't try to turn over at all, nothing happened when I pushed the ignition switch. The bike had power (instrument cluster came on, lights worked), but it acted as if I was trying to start the bike in gear without the clutch pulled in. Also, the normal whirring sound I hear when I turn the bike on (I think it's the fuel pump priming the injectors) was absent.

After I backed the bike off of the flatbed, all I did was turn the key and press the ignition button and it whirred to life, fired right up and purred like a kitten... like nothing had happened.

The next day, I went to ride it to the shop and it wouldn't start again... not a dead battery, just the same symptom where I could turn it on and lights and everything would work normally, but no EFI sound and dead ignition button. I toggled the kill switch a few times, turned it off and back on again a few times, and about the fifth or sixth try it finally started... and ran fine all the way to the dealership.

The dealership keeps promising me a call back, but still hasn't looked at the bike. I'm going to stop by in person tomorrow afternoon and see what's up.
Check the "LEAN ANGLE SENSOR."
 

·
stayin' sucka free
Joined
·
1,394 Posts
Discussion Starter #65
The dealership called me with an update today. The mechanic said that my bike died while he was in the middle of diagnosing it, so at least he was able to see what I was talking about first hand. He said that it's still the kill switch, and that he ordered a replacement switch under warranty today.

I hope that a new switch solves the problem.

What do you think the chances are that they'll be willing to refund the $90 I had to pay last week for them to "fix" the kill switch... which has now been deemed to be faulty?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
The dealership called me with an update today. The mechanic said that my bike died while he was in the middle of diagnosing it, so at least he was able to see what I was talking about first hand. He said that it's still the kill switch, and that he ordered a replacement switch under warranty today.

I hope that a new switch solves the problem.

What do you think the chances are that they'll be willing to refund the $90 I had to pay last week for them to "fix" the kill switch... which has now been deemed to be faulty?
If you want to get anal and threaten legal action, it would be pretty easy to get your money back. If you ever want to go to that shop again, I'd talk to the manager and explain that you didn't get what you paid for.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,222 Posts
there should be no question that some credit is due. the shop should be questioning the skills and decisions of their mechanic, and asking him why he wasted their time and money.
 

·
Another day lived!
Joined
·
2,288 Posts
They should be able to give you a credit no problem. If not that is just bad business.
 

·
stayin' sucka free
Joined
·
1,394 Posts
Discussion Starter #70
If you want to get anal and threaten legal action, it would be pretty easy to get your money back. If you ever want to go to that shop again, I'd talk to the manager and explain that you didn't get what you paid for.
I don't want to be a dick about it... but I do think that it's fairly crappy that they said it wasn't covered under warranty and charged me $90 because the switch just needed to be repaired and wasn't faulty... and then a week later I'm right back at the shop and the switch is now considered faulty and is being replaced under warranty.

I certainly don't want to burn that bridge though.... since it's the only dealership in town I can take my bike to if I need warranty work done again.

I guess it wouldn't hurt to ask for a refund... but I wont push the issue if they don't want to fork over the cash.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
Talk to them. Suggest maybe converting the $90 to credit for accessories or gear?
 

·
stayin' sucka free
Joined
·
1,394 Posts
Discussion Starter #72
Picked up my bike yesterday and so far so good.

I asked about the $90 I had to pay a week ago, and they gave me a complete refund right on the spot :banana
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Same problem at 13k miles

Here is some disassembly of the switch I did. With a pocket knife I took the control appart (3 or 4 screws on bottom) and popped this switch out. Cut the wires, striped with teeth, twisted together, on my way.
Diagnostic: Side loading the switch and holding it in certain positions kept it running so obviously it was the switch. No surprises as the rest of the bike got really badly corroded from being in a parking deck uncovered all winter next to a construction site at work. Popped the switch off with philips head screw driver and tested by pushing knife into the insulation of both wires. Yup, fuel pump came on so the next logical step to get home was obvious. I will say this, the battery did die on me over the winter because it was left for a few months unstarted and it was a BAD winter here in NJ.
Check out the corrosion on the switch contacts. I'm also going to say that it might have been a problem with too much current from low battery voltage but I doubt it.
Check out the animated gif that shows a problem with the contact pressure range. It appears that the switch relies heavily on the housing to keep pressure on the contacts. Notice that without any pressure holding the switch sides together the contact plate is hitting it's mechanical stops. This would result in very light contact pressure and create a LOT of resistance -> creates heat -> creates corrosion. I think this switch is a faulty design but who am I? Just an engineer that pulls everything apart and teaches at an elite University. Probably a know-it-all a$$hat ;)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,680 Posts
Hmm, I have heard problems that the contact on the kill switch can go bad and sometimes needs to be cleaned.

Sounds like a wiring problem, not a TPS issue.
Yep, I had this, or at least the start of it. Sometimes I would hit the starter button and got nothing. The Shop Guy told me to shoot some WD-40 in it. That worked. The Shop Guy told me moisture can get in the housing on that side and carrode the contacts. His theory was the housing gets taken apart to do the factory fix on the TPI and it isn't sealed properly when it's put back together. He asked me if I had any issues with it cutting off while driving. I told him no. He said, good, we got it in time. This was last June. Haven't had any trouble out of it so I guess it was fixed. Check the history of the bike. It wouldn't hurt to ask about getting the recall redone. :|
 
61 - 76 of 76 Posts
Top