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Sidehacker Extraordinaire
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It certainly sounds like it's operating as if there's an on/off switch being used, so I'd naturally start looking at all the sensors on the bike that are in fact on/off switches...

You've got the lean angle cutoff switch (i.e. tipover safety switch), sidestand switch, neutral switch, kill switch, and of course ignition. The good news is, all this stuff is easy to check with the onboard diagnostics, check diag codes 8 for tipover (should be 0.4 - 1.4), 20 for sidestand (on or off), 21 for neutral (on or off); the kill switch can be checked by using one of the tests that requires you switching the killswitch on, i.e. test 30 or 31 for ignition coil firing. The ignition I would say is working properly as if it were shorting to OFF the instrument cluster would change.

Best time to check these diagnostics is when you repeatedly can't get the bike to start. Have the bike in neutral, sidestand up, and upright; if any of those values are not what they should be, bingo. If they are fine, check the kill switch operation. Keep in mind that since your problem is sporadic you might not find the problem straight away.

One other thought, have you been starting the bike in neutral? Or in gear holding the clutch? When you first cycle the ignition on and all the lights light up, does your neutral light come on?
 

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The Flying Finn
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2,594 Posts
damn^^ ;-) do you guys have the same mapping on your bikes as we do around here?
the "worst" Gas i am able to buy is 95 Ocatne, then 98 and V-power with 100 Octane...
Next time you fill up, look at the letters beside the octane number. You should see RON somewhere. You're filling up with 95 Research Octane Number, while we're filling up with 87 R+M/2 (research+measured/2).

Without getting involved in the math here, you're 95 is like our mid-grade, your 98 is like our supreme, and we usually can't get anything like your 100 here. Shell Ultra 94 would be similar...

Now back to our regular scheduled thread already in progress. So lucky devil you going to get the Louisville slugger out and get these guys to figure out your bike?!?!?! I'd take it to a different shop, sounds like they're deadbeats...

Good luck!
 

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549 Posts
I have to ask, did you switch the kill switch off/back on?
If you leave it to run it usually doesn't prime the fuel pump(that whirr sound beneath the tank), but if you turn the ignition on with it on kill, then turn it to run it should do that.

Also if you didn't mess with the switch it could indicate a problem with it.
 

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Ok, I found three codes for the TPS:

2004-2005 = 5FL-85885-01-00
2006-2007 = 5FL-85885-02-00
2008 = 2D1-85885-00-00

I have a 2005 FZ6, which is identical to 2006 model, so I can surely use 5FL-85885-02-00. However, what about the 2008 version of the sensor ? I remember 2007 and 2008 FZ6 are identical, so if a 2007 FZ6 can use both 2006 and 2008 TPSes, it means the 2005 FZ6 can also use the 2008 TPS. Am I right ?
 

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stayin' sucka free
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1,394 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
Well, I went to the dealership today.

The guy said that he had ridden the bike a few times but it functioned normally. He said that the FZ6 had known TPS issues, but only the 04-05 models were affected. He mentioned that the TPS appeared to be fine when he put it into diagnostic mode to check it (something I already told him), but that he hadn't removed the TPS to manually check resistance yet. He said he planned on calling Yamaha about it today and that he would call me once he had spoke with them.

As an interesting side note, my bike wasn't anywhere on the premises... which kind of has me concerned. It was nowhere in the shop, and it wasn't parked outside either :confused:

oh yeah.... and he never called me :rolleyes surprise, surprise...

I'm going to give him all day tomorrow to call, and if I don't hear from him I think I'm just going to go pick up my bike and start trying to troubleshoot it myself. I don't believe for one minute that this guy is doing anything about my bike... and I'm tired of feeling like I'm getting dicked around.
 

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Well, I went to the dealership today.

The guy said that he had ridden the bike a few times but it functioned normally. He said that the FZ6 had known TPS issues, but only the 04-05 models were affected. He mentioned that the TPS appeared to be fine when he put it into diagnostic mode to check it (something I already told him), but that he hadn't removed the TPS to manually check resistance yet. He said he planned on calling Yamaha about it today and that he would call me once he had spoke with them.

As an interesting side note, my bike wasn't anywhere on the premises... which kind of has me concerned. It was nowhere in the shop, and it wasn't parked outside either :confused:

oh yeah.... and he never called me :rolleyes surprise, surprise...

I'm going to give him all day tomorrow to call, and if I don't hear from him I think I'm just going to go pick up my bike and start trying to troubleshoot it myself. I don't believe for one minute that this guy is doing anything about my bike... and I'm tired of feeling like I'm getting dicked around.
The only Yamaha dealer in SF is Golden Gate Cycle, so I'm assuming you took your bike there. I had some insurance work done at Golden Gate Cycles a few years ago when an idiot driving down Oak st changed into my lane and scratched up my clutch cover. Lucky he didnt hit my leg. They were suppose to change the sprocket nut that was recalled but after I looked at the work order it didnt look like they did anything. I've never been too fond of that place.
 

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According to the mechanic I spoke to, the damn TPS can act strange under certain conditions (like vibrations, heat or even humidity) then work normally. Of course, the bike would log the problem.

Lucky_Devil, I doubt TPS is at fault in your case.
 

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The diagnostic mode won't show a TPS fault unless the problem is occuring. Shutting the bike off "resets" the TPS and it doesn't act up right away after you restart.
 

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I change my diagnosis

I change my diagnosis from TPS to something electrical.

When you posted your additional information that it wouldn't even turn over after it died, that's not the TPS, that's something else electrical in my opinion.

Bad kill/kickstand/gear switch or something along those lines, as other people said.

TPS wouldn't keep it from turning over.
 

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butt marker
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1,715 Posts
I would take apart the switches and look for wear or sticking. Also check the wires for wear along any spot they are against an edge. Also a voltmeter can help you figure out which switch might be bad. Also, some electrical contact cleaner spray might help if there is dirt in the switch contacts.
 

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If the fuel pump won't prime, it's gotta be the kill switch... right? The fuel pump will still prime even if the kickstand/clutch/TPS...etc is faulty.

My $.02.
 

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The Flying Finn
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If the fuel pump won't prime, it's gotta be the kill switch... right? The fuel pump will still prime even if the kickstand/clutch/TPS...etc is faulty.

My $.02.
+1 (what's that now... $1.02??? :D)

Fuel pump will not prime with kickstand in either position with key on and killswitch off.

Fuel pump WILL prime with kickstand in either position with key on and killswitch on.

I accidentally hit my kilswitch once doing 140 km/h on the highway, and it actually wasn't an apprupt stop, it just felt like I was running out of gas. I'd be tempted to put a jumper in to bypass the killswitch and it's wiring (jumper as close to the computer as possible) and if the problem doesn't come back, repair/replace the killswitch and all it's wiring as necessary.

HTH,

Aaron
 

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I didn't do it.
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95 Posts
Try reading this thread from another forum. FJR's are experiencing some ignition switch issues. This could be a possiblity.
FJRF003: Ignition Failures on FJRs - FJR Forum

The thread itself is a information-gathering thread. Within the thread are many links to other threads describing exact problems, symptoms, etc. Could be a lengthy read, but could be worth it.
 

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stayin' sucka free
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1,394 Posts
Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
Just got off of the phone with the dealership. It was the kill switch. He said it was a "little cockeyed" and wasn't making a strong connection, thus causing my problems. He said he lined everything up, cleaned the connection, and that I should be good to go.

Unfortunately, he said it's not covered by warranty because the switch wasn't "faulty"... just a little off and/or dirty, so I'll have to pay out of pocket.

sucks.

... but at least I'll have my bike back :banana


MAD PROPS TO KILLERNOODLE who made the Kill Switch call on the third post!!!
 

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stayin' sucka free
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Discussion Starter #59
shame on you for not checking
yeah.... but I though it would be something that would be covered by the warranty. Guess I learned my lesson. Next time I'll just start a thread and let the SBN think tank tell me what's wrong with it :beer
 

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stayin' sucka free
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Discussion Starter #60
Wellllll.... I guess it wasn't the Kill Switch after all.... my bike died again today. Luckily I wasn't far from home when it happened.

Took it back to the dealership this afternoon.
 
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