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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, this is my first post ever. Hurray! Unfortunately it's to look for help fixing my horribly broken bike. I have a '93 Yamaha FZR 600 with the R6 tail conversion and a YZF tank. It's my first bike and I made a huge mistake buying it, but I have it now and want to fix it regardless. There are so many problems with the bike that I found after purchasing it from a guy on Craigslist. Like I said, it's my first bike so I'm not familiar with fixing anything on it. The biggest problem I have is it will not start. I don't mean I press the start button then it cranks but won't turn over. I mean I press start and it does nothing. Well, the oil light comes on like usual, the headlight dims, but there is zero sound. The engine isn't doing anything. I've checked all the fuses and changed some bad ones out. I've had problems with the battery. It dies really easily so I'm looking to replace it in the spring. I downed it on the right hand side. I managed to crack the cover next to the crankshaft cover and had to ride it home while it was leaking all kinds of oil. I J.B. welded the cracks and got the leak to stop, but I don't know if maybe the crankshaft could be damaged. If anyone has any ideas for what I could do, besides replacing the battery and fuel pump because I'm going to do that when it warms up. I live in Minnesota so I can only work on the bike when the temperature is warm enough that my hands don't fall off. My other huge problem is the over heating. I didn't do my research when I bought it so I was unaware that the FZR has a design flaw which causes the engine intakes to tulip. At one point I walked the bike 6 miles home because it overheated and wouldn't start up again. That was the second to last time it ran. I would really like to get everything fixed because I am a college student, so I can't afford to buy a new bike nor can I afford to pay $5 a day to park my car in the lot. Motorcycles park free, so if I can get it to run reliably, it would help me a ton.

On a side note, I also can't get the passenger seat off. I'm looking around for a key hole, but since it's a converted tail, I think the guy half assed it so much that he didn't put in whatever held the key hole. I really don't want to cut off the seat, but that's going to be my next move if there's no key hole. It's not that I want to, but I have a tail light out and kind of need to fix that too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wow I am really sorry I didn't respond to anyone for like… 3 months. Today was the first day I actually got to bring my hunk of metal on wheels out of my garage and look at it. I have a few updates, but generally the same concerns.

I got a new battery. I'm on quite a budget and it cost me $90, but I put it in cause I needed one anyways, and it changed nothing. Nothing except the brightness of my headlight.

I did figure out how to take the passenger seat off. Not really a huge issue, but it's solved.

I'm not sure if I mentioned the ridiculous amount of play on my throttle, but if I did, that is also solved. Not very difficult.

I took the carbs out. Tomorrow I'm giving them a much needed cleaning. Hopefully that will help somewhat, but I'm not sure.

I will be ordering a new fuel pump. I took mine out and man did it look like something I'd find in a dumpster outside of Axe Man.

With all that said, I still have a few problems that I'm hoping to solve soon since the snow is gone. I put a brand new battery in my bike, but it still does not make even a hint of I sound when I try to start the bike. The fuel pump doesn't click, probably because it's trash, but when I hit the start button there is still no sound. Totally blank. I'm assuming this means that I need to replace my spark plugs. I looked at the service manual and it looks like I have to take the entire engine out of the frame to change the spark plugs. If anyone knows a way around doing that, please let me know because I am not a professional nor am I savvy enough to do something like that.

I'm pretty sure the engine is not hydro locked. From the time I've had it it has only been left out in light sprinkles twice and ridden in a light sprinkle once. Even so, is there a somewhat simple way to check for sure by myself? I know some people might have someone look at it, but the closest shop to me charges $90 a friggin hour. I can't afford that.

Thanks again for responding, and I apologize for not updating this thread sooner. If anyone has any idea as to why my bike doesn't make a single sound when I hit start, please let me know what it could be. I feel as though I need to say no, the kill switch is not on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Kind of a silly question but I want to make sure I don't mess up my carbs. I went to clean them and the screws holding on the float bowls on 3 of the carbs were stripped beyond belief by the previous owner. After I manage to get them out I obviously want to replace them instead of putting the stripped ones back in. Does is matter what kind of screws I get? Obviously I need the right sized screw and the same style, but does the type of metal have to be the same? The ones that are in there now are really soft metal and I just want to make sure that if I put something harder in it won't damage the carbs.
 

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Kind of a silly question but I want to make sure I don't mess up my carbs. I went to clean them and the screws holding on the float bowls on 3 of the carbs were stripped beyond belief by the previous owner. After I manage to get them out I obviously want to replace them instead of putting the stripped ones back in. Does is matter what kind of screws I get? Obviously I need the right sized screw and the same style, but does the type of metal have to be the same? The ones that are in there now are really soft metal and I just want to make sure that if I put something harder in it won't damage the carbs.
I usually replace them with allen headed screws and stainless is the best, but expensive, the black normal steel ones will work but will rust. Take one to a hardware store and either find a nut that fits them, that is the size bolt you will need then, or if the hardware store has the thread gauge card use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This has gone from bad to worse. I bought a new battery and put it in, took the carbs out and they were already virtually spotless, ordered and installed a new starter solenoid, but still when I try to start my bike it makes no noise. No fuel pump clicks, no solenoid clicks, nothing. There must be a short somewhere, right? I can't think of any other explanation unless my clutch or kickstand switches are broken. My headlight turns on so I know the battery is hooked up, plus I'm not stupid enough to get that part wrong. Anybody have any other suggestions before I give up and pay the nearest shop $90 an hour, which I don't actually have, tell me it's going to cost another $1000, which I don't actually have, to fix the problem?
 

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first is your kill switch in the "run" position?

any way time to start tracing continuity and voltage.

get a wiring diagram, and factory manual.

does power get to your ignition, does it get to the handle bar, does it get to the switch assembly, does it get to the ignition relay... ect.

sorry i do not have a manual for you, try searching around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok my bad on my last post. I bypassed the starter solenoid I just bought and the bike tried to turn over. Time to get my money back for the solenoid and order another one. If that doesn't work I'll take it to a shop to get the wiring looked at. Thanks for the help guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Last question! I'm putting in a brand new solenoid when it comes in the mail. Everything else on the bikes works. When I install the solenoid, if my bike still doesn't turn on, it's gotta be the wiring, neutral switch, kickstand switch, or starter switch. SO, if I press the start button, obviously with the kill switch set to "run" -.-, and the oil light comes on/the headlight dims, can I assume that the starter switch is working properly? I'm only asking because I'm going to take it into a shop if it won't start and I want to tell the mechanics, "Look at the wiring, this switch, that switch. I don't give a damn about my cracked hoo hah or my loose shmee shmaw, just look at these couple of things!"
It'll help me save a ton of money.

Quick edit: I saw a couple of videos that said if you can start the bike in neutral with the kickstand up, but when you put the bike into gear it turns off, that means it's the kickstand switch. Another video suggested that if you can see the neutral light on your dash, that means the neutral safety switch is working. Is this information accurate to anyone's knowledge, or are the people who put of those videos window lickers?
Since my neutral light is on, can I rule out a faulty neutral safety switch?
 

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Where in Minnesota are you?

While you may think "by guess and by gosh" you will eventually find the problem and perhaps you will perhaps you won't. A proper diagnostic isn't that hard nor does it take all that long.
It may well be money well spent to have it professionally looked at, it could be something really easy to fix.

By any chance is there a cut switch anywhere (hidden possibly) to make the bike less easy to steal?

Perhaps try this guy Riverszzr.webs.com I hear he is really good with working on bikes at reasonable prices.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok, I got a brand new aftermarket solenoid. I am hoping beyond hope that I simply installed it incorrectly, and I will post a picture so maybe someone could tell me. My motorcycle still will not make noise.
I can bypass the solenoid and it turns over.
I have a brand new battery.
My neutral light is on so I assume my neutral safety is working.
My kickstand switch may be messed up, but even so I should be able to start the bike in neutral, but it won't start.

Everything points to the starter switch being bad OR not getting power from the handlebars to the solenoid.
When I push start my oil light comes on and my headlight dims. Since the oil light comes on and the headlight dims, can I rule out a bad starter switch?
 

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their are two circuits in your solenoid, one big one (this passes juice to the starter motor).

and one small one (this switches the big circuit).

If you run juice straight to that small circuit, the solenoid should fire, and the bike should crank.

if the bike cranks when you run juice straight to that small circuit, then you know that the solenoid works.

look up steam from that. a set wiring diagrams and ohm meters will be very helpful in tracking down the problem.
 

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....

a set wiring diagrams and ohm meters will be very helpful in tracking down the problem.
THIS. buy a a cheap multimeter and start tracing the wires. the large posts on solenoid should have 12v on one, and other should have virtually no resistance to the post on the starter. check that. then make sure the small wire is feeding 12v to the solenoid when the start button is pressed and its ground is good. if you're not geting the 12 volts, check neutral safety and kickstand switch (you can bypass both for testing). also, it could be as simple as cleaning the kill switch / start button with a shot of contact cleaner. stop throwing parts at.
 
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