[WTVa]

Well had some free time this evening so stopped by a Radio Shack found the connector needed to make the 55W part of the H4 light up and turn off when the 65W part comes on. Well also picked up some wire loom to hide the wires into the existing wire harness into the light switch. Well I went the easy route did not remove any thing from the bike.. Like alot of the other documentations shows.
I wired it in a few inches from the switch at the handlebars it was easy and I was done in like 30-45 mins after metering out to be sure I was splicing in the right wire.

Yeah first MOD ..... now just need my FE kit next :grinbounc
Hopefully will catch up with Mike this weekend...

 

[Proc]

Was it the green wire in US model too?

 

[WTVa]

Was it the green wire in US model too?

Yes is was Green with a slight orange looking dot on it, hard to tell since I only working with 3 inches of slack. I will try and post up some pics latter today when I get a chance. I have a few PM asking for more details so I will try and put a little something together tonight but I am by no means a expert.
Granted anyone cares :dunno

 

[Proc]

Ah good. So, the instructions could be GREATLY simplified.
My instructions would be:

1. Find the green wire in the harness coming from left handlebar.
2. Cut it and reroute it to the low beam connector of the H4.
3. Enjoy

There, much shorter than the original instructions

 

[WTVa]

Okay here goes.... I will post a link to pics I took and it also has more info in them. Hope this will help someone out.

1st I will say if you do this modification, You proceed at your own risk !
Don't blame me if you mess something up !!
I will also say if your not sure of the wire before you cut into it get a meter and test it ;-)

Tools needed:
Side cutter / wire stripper
Soldering Iron

Supplies:
6' of wire 14GA
1 Connector
Solder
Electrical tape
Wire Loom
Cable ties

Expand (needed since it was a little smaller than the original) one of the connectors and crimp wire on end (test fit to lamp connector)

Place connector into H4 wire connector (I used some electrical tape to help hold it snug)

Run wire up to handle bars (follow other wires)

User wire loom to hide new wire and give it a clean look

Open wire harness just past handle grip and you will find a green wire with orange dot (note the harness already has a cut here)

Splice (solder) into the green wire but I did not cut the cable, I just cut back the insulation

Use wireloom to hide new wire run and clean up the look, also used wire ties to hold wire loom in place.

I did it this way since it seemed easier than tracking down the wire under the tank as in some of the other writeups I have read.

Link to Album with PICs..
http://community.webshots.com/album/169586128FWwiZU

 

[FAZR6]

I checked WTVa's out this morning while he was over for his FE kit install. I have to say that he did an OUTSTANDING job and it is very simple...even I can handle it.

 

[Proc]

I just cut the wire since it isn't going anywhere, at least on EU models.
Then just solder, and cover it with.. what do you call it.. shrinking tube? Anyway, makes it more weather-proof than electrical tape.

Also, I didn't find a suitable piece for the H4 connector so I replaced the whole connector. You can get them from car part stores. Solder, and use shrink tubes, perfect

 

[charlieoneseven]

So your powering the second bulbs low beam with the first ones power. Do you think you will have to increase the amps of the fuse? It sounds like a simple fix as long as it does turn off when the bright is on, with both burning at once the bulb might not last too long. I'll bet those connectors cost much less that Yamaha parts. Now do we dare try to make the high beam in both light?

 

[WTVa]

So your powering the second bulbs low beam with the first ones power. Do you think you will have to increase the amps of the fuse? It sounds like a simple fix as long as it does turn off when the bright is on, with both burning at once the bulb might not last too long. I'll bet those connectors cost much less that Yamaha parts. Now do we dare try to make the high beam in both light?

Actualy from my reading of the others writeups of this mod from the net, the green cable coming off the switch is not used and was intended to be used for just this purpose just Yamaha didn't use it when it came over the pond since over there the H4 bulb is on the opposite side of ours.
As for price of the connectors I think it may have been $2.00 for the pack.
For the bulb running both elements on it does not, the 55W turns off when you turn on the brights the 65W element. Guess if someone was to be able to fit a H4 buld in the left hand side it could be do able
Hope that answers a few questions.

 

[fuzzy6]

Do you guys know if this mod voids the warranty?

 

[fuzzy6]

I forgot to ask, did you keep the existing bulb or did you have to change it?

 

[Proc]

Yes, the green wire is meant for that purpose. It properly switches off the low beam of the H4 when you turn on the high beam.

You don't have to change the bulbs, although many do. I changed them to brighter blue ones.

Yamaha didn't use it when it came over the pond.

They didn't use it on this side either. Although, for some crooked reason, they switched the low beam to another side for US market.. go figure...

 

[WTVa]

Do you guys know if this mod voids the warranty?

I would assume any MOD could void the warranty, so do at your own risk or if you have a problem remove it before taken it in

 

[ripthenightopen]

Hey thanks a lot for the info, I like the last picture you have on your slide show, looks like something you would find on the yamaha site, very nice. Take it easy.

 

[WTVa]

Hey thanks a lot for the info, I like the last picture you have on your slide show, looks like something you would find on the yamaha site, very nice. Take it easy.

Thanks for the compliments hope this helped someone here

 

[MrPostman]

it convinced me to do mine. It took about 15 minutes. Thanks for the info and pics! I probably would have spliced in on the wrong green wire if it wasnt for your pic.

 

[Dexter_643]

With only 300 miles on my bike, I must've been flashed over a dozen times by people thinking I had a headlight out. This weekend I plan to implement the mod. Thanks folks for the info and walkthroughs.

 

[ZeuSeason]

Great post. All of the info worked, and worked well. I just did the mod to my bike and it was a snap. I had a hard time finding 14 gauge wire so I ended up using 16 gauge wire. I didn't splice the green wire up by the grip, I spliced it with a quick splice connector down just before where the group of wires tucks into the frame. Pretty inconspicuous there. Has anyone noticed any ill effects of this mod as of yet?

Thanks again for this mod, was easy to do and I am glad I did it.

 

[WTVa]

Great post. All of the info worked, and worked well. I just did the mod to my bike and it was a snap. I had a hard time finding 14 gauge wire so I ended up using 16 gauge wire. I didn't splice the green wire up by the grip, I spliced it with a quick splice connector down just before where the group of wires tucks into the frame. Pretty inconspicuous there. Has anyone noticed any ill effects of this mod as of yet?

Thanks again for this mod, was easy to do and I am glad I did it.

Glad it all worked out for you
You may still consider replacing that quick connector after a while, they tend to come loose over time from vibrations and heat.(IMO solder it)
No ill effect that I can tell and I had it done pretty much since I got the bike less a week, close to 600+ miles after this weekend and no ill effect that I can see. I sure others will chime in but this mods been going around for a long time and I have not heard of any problems, I just simplified it to what works easier for me thats all. I even took my riding portion of the DMV test and passed.. yeha all legal now :lol

 

[Dexter_643]

I used one of the quick splice connecters into the wire by the frame as well, then zip-tied over the housing to ensure that it would stay together. I think I had ~330 miles when I did the mod, at 1700+ now, I haven't had any problems. At ~1500 miles I did a pod light mod, similar to one of the others posted. While I had the fairings off, I inspected the original mod and everything was still kosher. I think that as long as it's done correctly (and a zip tie doesn't hurt), a splice-in connector is fine.