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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone! I picked up a bike last week. A 1994 Honda CBR 600. I know this goes against all the advice provided by you lot, but it was a good deal and the transaction went smoothly, which is more than I can say for the other sellers who gave me the run around. I understand that if something were to happen, it would be on me.


I spotted a stain. OIL!



So I decided I'd look for the leak. This is where I am now.


I can't remove the fairing completely 'cause the allen bolt under the shifter is stripped and I can't get it out.

I've decided to turn this into a mini project. Find the leak, fix it, change spark plugs, change oil & oil filter, and check valve clearance while I'm in there.

I have yet to find the leak... All this motorcycle stuff is new to me. Not really sure how to go about it but here is what I found so far.




Some kind of gunk in airbox... Should I be worried?


Also, there may be rust in the gas tank. Seems there is some rust residue on petcock. Kinda hard to see. I'll update with a pic of inside gas tank after I drain it fully.
 

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the tank needs to be cleaned. if that varnish breaks lose it will clog the fuel filter (if the bike still has one) and if it passes the filter get into the carbs. since the tank and airbox is off you might as well pull the carbs and clean them too. my guess is the carbs are in just as bad as the tank if not worse.

the leak? i have no idea where it is coming from and can't get good enough reference from the photo posted. additionally the leak my be from somewhere else and seeped and settled where you see the most of it. give the entire engine a good degreasing and spray talcum foot powder on the outside. it will show where the leak is coming from after it has sat for a bit.

a service manual is your friend. they can be found on the internet with some looking. no, i'm not going to look for you. if may be a simple engine cover gasket or something b*****.

good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think I found the leak. Seems it's the cover gasket. Leak was at bottom of clutch/alternator cover. Leaked onto hose pictured. Ordered gasket and now just have to wait.

Carbs are also out and ready for cleaning.

How would I go about cleaning the gas tank? Also, would you recommend I replace the fuel filter? Where would I find a fuel filter? Would places like Autozone or O'reilly carry them?

Thank you for the replies by the way.
 

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the joke is in your hand
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auto parts stores don't typically sell motorcycle stuff besides spark plugs and batteries. if you need gasket sealant I love the ultra gray made by permatex. it's a high torque sealant for japanese engines. works way better than any of there other stuff.
Gasket Makers : Permatex® Ultra Grey® Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

a dealer (will be very expensive) or online (my prefered method) is about your only options.
mr.cycles.com is a very good and usually cheap place to get stuff from.
however if you want a headache from using their awful website ronayers.com is almost always the cheapest place to get oem parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks serpent. Seems the fuel filter is internal on this bike. The petcock also has a little varnish on it. Can I just scrap this off with something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Found some stuff. Milk Stone Remover. Says to mix 50% with water. Should I fill whole tank, half way, etc?

I've removed the float bowl covers on the carb to clean them. Took gaskets off them so I could dip in carb cleaner solution. My question is, can I use the same gaskets when putting the covers back on carb? Will I need some kind of sealant?

Also, petcock cleaning. How would I go about this? Seems to have a little varnish on plastic pieace that goes into the gas tank.
 

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Are we not men?
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You should use new carb gaskets, fuel leaks are not worth it.

What does the package say about contact with rubber? I doubt it's ruined, but check the package to see what the mfg says.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There was nothing on package about making contact with rubber or plastic. Seems it's not a huge issue.

This turned into a b***** project than I expected. Can't wait to have her back together and running!
 

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the joke is in your hand
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There was nothing on package about making contact with rubber or plastic. Seems it's not a huge issue.

This turned into a b***** project than I expected. Can't wait to have her back together and running!
shit like that always does man, it always does. and no point on skimping while you got it apart. do it right once or do it many more times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
There is a lot of sealant gunk just under the flywheel. I need to get the flywheel out to properly clean it out... and therein lies the problem. I simply CANNOT get the nut in the middle of the flywheel to turn. Manual shows a special tool being used. I've looked online to see if I could order it and no luck. I've been to every auto parts place in the area and they don't carry flywheel holders. I'm going to try Harbor Freight in the morning.

If I have no luck there either, how do I go about this? I've seen a couple youtube videos on the subject. One involves turning the engine to the compression stage and jamming shoelaces into the spark plug opening to stop the engine from turning. The other involves jamming a screw driver into the flywheel to keep it from turning. Neither of these is something I'd want to do... Are my options so limited?
 

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shoe lace works.

Try a crescent wrench or box end wrench to hold the fly wheel while loosening the bolt.

hit the bolt with an impact wrench while gripping the fly wheel.
(i prefer air but a battery one will do in a pinch.)

borrow one if you do not have one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
shoe lace works.

Try a crescent wrench or box end wrench to hold the fly wheel while loosening the bolt.

hit the bolt with an impact wrench while gripping the fly wheel.
(i prefer air but a battery one will do in a pinch.)

borrow one if you do not have one.
Tried holding it with a wrench and couldn't get it. The shoe lace won't damage anything? I'm afraid of something getting caught in the internals.
 

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not if you are on the compression stroke.

how to tell if a piston is on the compression stroke
#1
if you have the exhaust off, check for when the exhaust valve is closed and the piston is rising. this is the compression stroke.
#2
take the valve cover off. when both valves are closed and the piston is rising, it is the compression stroke.
#3
take all the spark plugs out and spin the engine with you thumb over the spark plug hole. When the engine tries to blow you thumb off the hole, that's the compression stroke.
 

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if you have air thought i still suggest using an air wrench.

if you do not have air go to a shop/store and ask to borrow an electric impact wrench.

then hold the fly wheel with one hand, or better yet recruit some poor innocent passer by to hold the fly wheel, while you use the impact driver to loosen the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
if you have air thought i still suggest using an air wrench.

if you do not have air go to a shop/store and ask to borrow an electric impact wrench.

then hold the fly wheel with one hand, or better yet recruit some poor innocent passer by to hold the fly wheel, while you use the impact driver to loosen the bolt.
:eek:nfloor I actually did have a friend try to hold the flywheel. No impact wrench though. I managed to clean most of the gunk without taking the flywheel off.

This little project will be further delayed because the Honda Motorsports dealer sold me the wrong feeler gauges. I'm also waiting on float bowl cover bolts, valve cover gasket, flywheel cover gasket, hose to fuel pump (tore mine when removing tank), and a few fairing bolts.

Also, probably a stupid question, but when checking valve clearance, do you take the measurements from the front of the bike (looking at the windscreen) or the back (looking at the controls)? I also can't seem to figure out which cylinder is which... 1-4 starting from the left if you're looking at the controls?
 
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