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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I installed my DDM HID kit "35w 6000k" and everything was easy to get off "Don't read the Clymer manual, it's full of shit" but after I put my new lights in I had a horrible time getting everything back together. I spent several hours working on it. Eventually I got everything ALMOST lined up, the left side "when sitting" was off by about half an inch off and I just forced my fairing holes to line up and put the screws in that way. I'm a little worried since I did have to force everything. I hope it's okay. Any ideas why this was such an issue? I kept checking everything, and couldn't figure out what on earth was causing it not to slide all the way into place... it was a major headache.:duh2

*The Clymer manual says you have to remove the GAS TANK and side fairings to remove the front fairing, so fuck Clymer. I removed the front fairing to remove the front fairing*
 

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I don't really know what to say. plastics have a fair bit of give but half an inch is not a small amount of torque to be putting them under either, depending on where you are twisting. I don't think I'd ever needed to remove the tank to get under the fairings on mine, but I've always removed it to get under it for a reason while I am in there.

one thing to learn is that bike panels are pretty much always a bitch when you first take em off.

They're kinda like boobs.

every set is different, they never feel quite how you imagined, and putting em back in is best left to the professionals who have been doing it longer than you. :D
 

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Fairings. I once tried to put a Druze (I think that is what those quick release fittings are called) kit on an Interceptor (VFR 500). It defeated me. My theory is that the fairing braces have tension on them and when the fairing is pulled the brackets (braces) pop into whatever position they want. The position they want is seldom the position the fairing needs. I have heard others express disgust with the process, so I hope I'm not the only one. The gap between my tank (Battery cover?) is half an inch or so on the right side and maybe a 1/16th on the left. The bike has tipped over enough times to have scratches on the mirrors, bar ends, clutch cover and what might be the alternator cover. I think the fairing got knocked out of alignment. I have no clue how to get it realigned. I use a drift punch and my large strong 15 year old neighbors arm to put it all back together after cleaning the air filter and checking the battery 'n plugs. I used 2 drift punches to line up a 3rd hole, which I then place the bolt in. Once I get a bolt in each side, I can get the other holes to line up.
Anybody with a better way or a system, sound off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I took my side fairings off like 100x in the last months it seems and never had ANY issue with them so I popped the front one off without a second thought... fuark.
Woodcraft cut-Frame sliders were a breeze, my alarm and self-made headstock gps mount were easy, rim stripes were easy, wiring all of this was easy, took my battery out once, that was easy, so wtf is wrong with that stupid fairing -_- ;;
 

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Probably something in the way that you can't see because you didn't take the tank off. You don't have to pull it off the entire way, just take the two allen bolts under the seat off, and the two 8mm at the top of the tank, then use a piece of rope or a ratchet strap and lift the tank from the top (I suggest putting rags at the bottom of the tank between the rear fairing and the sides of the tank or else you'll scratch the tank) It's fairly easy and I've done it more times than I care to count trying to track down an electrical gremlin.

Oh, and the air ducts need to come off too. Allen wrench on the tank side and mine was phillip screw connecting to the front (can't remember if it's the fairing or not that it's attached to so you may already have these off)

Then while you're in there, check/clean your air filter and filter box.
 

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I've always propped the tank up with a block of wood, myself.
 
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