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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
And i also like riding on two wheels and not stuck carpooling, so while i was out grocery shopping, i went ahead and picked up one of these.

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Yup, another 2005 Kawasaki ZX6R, I just couldn't help myself. The owner was trying to sell it originally for 3800, but i talked him down to 3200 because he had some fairing damage and scratches here and there. He didn't know that i was just going to use the good parts from my 1st 636 to repair it, but that was my little secret.

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This shows what i went ahead and did the first free day i had to work on the bike. I stripped the entire body off, replaced all of the fluids, chain& sprocket, levers, mirrors, fairing bolts, re-did the clutch line and replaced the body kit.

The things i have planned for her next is to have her CCT tightened, fork seals re-done,filters and spark plugs swapped out and a new voltage regulator (because the current one is going bad). The bike has 40K miles on her, so i am going to assume no maintenance has been done and i will need to service everything within the next few months of ownership.

I am also considering either a new wiring kit or a new HID kit, as the current HID kit installed is a 55w energy hippo, which may or may not get resolved when i get the new regulator in.

I also have a picture of what caused my other bike's motor to blow. The discovery was so "amazing" that the guy who helped me break my bike down to pieces gave me the pieces to show everyone else because no one would believe the story without proof. That will come later.
 

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YYYYEEEEEEEEEAHHHHHHHHHHHH!

All kinds of fuck yeah going on right now dude. well done, welcome back!
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
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This is half of why my first 636 blew a motor...

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this is the other half.

From what I can understand, when i was doing my ride on Ortega Highway back in September, one of my pistons got "stuck" in the cylinder and broke off of the crankshaft. The broken portion of the crankshaft then punched directly through the engine the fore part of the engine casing, resulting in a 2-3 in. diameter hole. In addition, my buddy was saying that he also discovered a rod that had punched towards the rear of the bike, inches from where the fuel was (I forgot to ask if he meant fuel tank, fuel pump or fuel line). He was shocked and said that i was lucky the fuel did not get hit or else it along with the bike and myself would have ignited and turned into 50 shades of Wesley Snipes. He was even more surprised at how when all of this actually happened, that the bike would still start up (pre-breaking it down and pulling everything out of everywhere).

I am sure the more technically savy mechanics in here could probably look at these pics and tell me exactly what happened and remind me of how important engine maintenance is no matter what the circumstance.
 

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I'll tell you what happened.

you ran a cylinder dry of oil, and dry seized it. either that, or that specific cylinder warmed up MUCH quicker than the cylinder it was in, and seized by literally becoming too big. Judging from the very melted down look of that piston, this is the much more obvious choice. it ran with the cylinder way too lean, and caused the piston to overheat in a speedy fashion.

You just melted down a piston. Probably caused by a shitty/stuck/toast injector. That 1 cylinder couldn't resist the motion of the other 3, and you ripped the con rod off, and sent it flying.

Not overly amazing that it'd still run. crankcase pressure ain't high in most engines so punching a hole in the case wouldn't affect that (minus, well, the oil everywhere), and if the other 3 cylinders still had fuel/compression, you just managed to send the parts flying through just the right spots.

Note: I have seen jeep engines run with valves dropped into cylinders, I have seen a VW engine run for about 15 minutes after eating a valve spring and retainer, and I've seen certain diesels run with rings that were busted and being chewed up by the pistons. you'd be amazed what some engines can and will take.
 

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an old shop i worked at had a "wall of shame" where we would put especially creative and spectacular parts failures.

While i was working there i had a lady come in complaining that her car was "Running a little rough" and "needed an oil change". when i started draining oil, coolant came out, confused i looked her engine again, and noticed hole in the block.

her engine had done something similar to yours, but the broken connecting rod had punched holes in the water jacket and block.
 

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0_0

wow. . .

reminds me of the RCMP cruiser that left Smeaton, SK and drove to Choiceland, SK. a 21KM drive.

upon turning out from the Smeaton, SK RCMP detachment, the engine prompty, for one reason or another, blew the block heater clean out.
You can imagine what happened.

Amazingly enough, the thing lasted through the drive, got to the shop, (with the officer calling ahead and having a bay ready when he noted that the temp gauge was PINNED. . .then zero) had the hole helicoiled and peened, a new heater/coolant thrown in, and is still on the road with no further problems.
No idea how or why it blew the heater out.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'll tell you what happened.

you ran a cylinder dry of oil, and dry seized it. either that, or that specific cylinder warmed up MUCH quicker than the cylinder it was in, and seized by literally becoming too big. Judging from the very melted down look of that piston, this is the much more obvious choice. it ran with the cylinder way too lean, and caused the piston to overheat in a speedy fashion.

You just melted down a piston. Probably caused by a shitty/stuck/toast injector. That 1 cylinder couldn't resist the motion of the other 3, and you ripped the con rod off, and sent it flying.

Not overly amazing that it'd still run. crankcase pressure ain't high in most engines so punching a hole in the case wouldn't affect that (minus, well, the oil everywhere), and if the other 3 cylinders still had fuel/compression, you just managed to send the parts flying through just the right spots.

Note: I have seen jeep engines run with valves dropped into cylinders, I have seen a VW engine run for about 15 minutes after eating a valve spring and retainer, and I've seen certain diesels run with rings that were busted and being chewed up by the pistons. you'd be amazed what some engines can and will take.
So how would i go about keeping this from happening again? Is it strictly an issue with the Injectors or would this fall under routine engine maintenance?
 

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most of the time when an engine seizes, it is from lack of maintenance.

for example, the lady that i saw was correct about her engine needing an oil change, in fact it had needed an oil change for 10,000 miles.
 

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So how would i go about keeping this from happening again? Is it strictly an issue with the Injectors or would this fall under routine engine maintenance?
It's tough to say. Gas injectors, if you care for the fuel, are typically pretty damned bulletproof. I'm rather amazed you managed to have one fuck up THAT hard.

typically, use fuel stabilizer, and when you run it for the first time of the year, run it through the full rev band. away ya go, have at er, no worries.

Unless something happened that I just cannot place right now (having only a rudimentary knowledge of motorcycle fuel injection and on-board diag systems), then what happened to you was that "1 in 10,000" kind of deal.

only thing I'd point to, is a fuel pressure regulator, or fuel pump. usually, 1 or 2 cylinders (1 in engines as small as these) will suffer from low fuel pressures before the others do.
A yearly fuel pressure test might help notify you of things going awry before they get too bad.
 

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^ he's in San Diego, we don't winterize. No stabilizer needed.

Congrats on the new ride. I need to get down there to Palomar one of these weekends. I've been through some of the back roads out in that area in the car a few times, but not on the bike.
 

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My dad and I did the valves on his '07 ZX6R this winter (yes, I know, different engine). But, I was surprised to find out that 8 out of 16 valves were out of spec. 6 exhaust valves were on the tight side of tolerance.

I have been of the mindset "A modern engine will run forever, just keep the gas clean and the tires full of air."

But, this wasn't the case for his Ninja which has just 13K miles.

If I were you I would do a valve inspection sooner rather than later. It is not THAT hard of a process to check. Pulling the cams would be the hard part (and by hard I mean the part that you could do something to actually mess it up) and you wouldn't have to do that if everything was within spec.

Your list of future maintenance:

I don't know what you mean by "tighten" the CCT. If its a manual one, then I understand. If its a ratcheting one, then it would be wise to pull it out and check that it is functioning correctly.

Fork Seals seems like a waste to me unless they're leaking. For oil may not be the worst idea, but getting all the oil out of my dad's '07 forks was harder than I expected. Still could be done in under an hour with the right tools. Not quite as easy as when I drained and filled my '90 GS500 with traditional forks and no adjusters.
 

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most of the time when an engine seizes, it is from lack of maintenance.

for example, the lady that i saw was correct about her engine needing an oil change, in fact it had needed an oil change for 10,000 miles.
must have been running shit oil. I've run many an engine with oil change intervals as high as 15k. never blew one up. heck, My 02 VFR800 was supposed to have oil changed every 8k per the book. 2k isn't much more.
just saying... still sucks that those people had such bad incidents. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So just as an update, i think the stator on my old bike was bad and might have explained the electrical issues and random shutting off my first 636 had. With my current 636, i couldn't get the stator out of the scratched up stator cover to put in my woodcraft cover so i used the stator cover from my first 636 instead, then i started having electrical issues. I put the old stator/cover back on and the electrical issues are fine. I googled around for a week and got myself a new voltage regulator that just came in yesterday, along with 4 new spark plugs that i have to go get measured before i put them all in my bike tomorrow (tomorrow is bike maintenance day for me. I have some extra cash so I am going to see if i can find some long enough screws to put in the frame sliders that i have (cuz i lost the old screws). Also going to recheck all of the grounding wires since the hi beams now shut the bike's engine completely off when turned on. Research lead to think that there are loose ground wires/screws so i will be investigating that and putting in a new air filter tomorrow.

For the CCT, a local shop (not stealership) wants to charge about $160 to service my CCT provided i give them a new CCT to put in. Does this sound fair or not? I am also going to try the "tape trick" to dislodge any dirt and debris that may have gotten in my fork seal and cause a leak.

I had order a set TBR power tips for the dual can exhaust and a servo mod, but i don't think the order went through and the money magically came back into my account a week later. I don't care for the power tips, but i did want the servo mod to clear the FI light that stays on. The previous owner had a bracket installed in the servo motor, but the motor doesn't even move whenever the bike is on (noticed when i first started swapping parts off/on the bike and testing electronics.
 
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