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** I posted this on a couple forums after I did this today. Just thought I'd post it here in case anyone needed it **

Just thought I'd post a "how to" since I didn't see one online anywhere for this simple mod. Aimed at "idiots" like me that need pictures to understand what anybody is talking about...so apologies in advance for the slow load time...

If you've got a basic garden variety sportbike like me, then you may have noticed that they lack auxiliary power outlets like some fancy touring bikes have. And if you're like me, you occasionally forget to charge you iPod and cellphone before heading out on a ride. And if you're like me, you kinda want the option of being able to add a radar like an X50 (not a Solo or other such battery powered one), and maybe a GPS, and maybe a Roady2, etc, etc...Here's a pictorial guide for how to install some auxiliary power outlets on your sportbike, so that you can power up all your electronics (tip: put electronics in tank bag)

My supplies (inline blade type fuse holder, 15 amp fuses, etc.):
 

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I got a couple Truck Bed Liner cigarette lighter type power outlets because they are weatherproof (and have a 17 foot hot wire). I chose the mounting points shown in photo below because those locations had enough clearance for the underside of the power outlet assembly without having to modify the ram air ducts.
 

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Drill a pilot hole in the vicinity of the area you wish to mount. Then place the ring from the bottom of the power outlet over the pilot hole. Use this as your guide to grind out the hole using rotary tool. You could alternatively use a hole-saw like the power outlet instructions say, but I didn't have a hole saw bit.
 

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If you haven't already unscrewed the cap (and ring) from the underside of outlet, do so. Feed the wires down through the top side of ram air duct cover and see if outlet fits. Grind until it fits flush. Then screw the bottom cap and ring back underneath.

 

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Test fit on your bike for clearance. Measure and mark the length of wire you need to reach the battery.
 

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Cut the hot wire to the length you marked (save the excess). Solder the inline blade type fuse holder to the hot (red) wire. Install a 15 amp blade type fuse. Crimp and solder a ring connector on the end of fuse holder


Cut a length of wire from the excess hot (red) wire and solder to the ground (black) wire so that the total length is same as hot wire. Crimp and solder a ring connector on the end of ground wire. Picture below is of finished wires.


Unscrew the cap from the bottom of outlet. Put a bead of silicone on top side and underside of outlet where it meets the ram air cover. Screw the cap back on.

 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Lift tank on bike and prop it up. Position the ram air covers and run the wires as close to the stock wiring harness as you can. (left side is pictured below. outlet wires are the red and black wires 'looped' around the stock wiring.)


right side wiring below


Unscrew the screw holding the ground side of the stock battery cable to the negative battery post. Stick the screw through the ring connector you soldered to the ground wire and through the stock battery cable ring connector and screw them back down onto the battery post. Do the same for the positive (hot) wire side. Tuck wires, bolt the tank back down, screw the ram air covers back in, and then you're done.

Sorry for lack of pics for battery connections, but it's pretty self-explanatory. Ground (black) to ground (negative), and hot (red) to positive side of battery.


****UPDATED PHOTOS BELOW***** (Scroll down)
 

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DarkF4i said:
Cut the hot wire to the length you marked (save the excess). Solder the inline blade type fuse holder to the hot (red) wire. Install a 15 amp blade type fuse. Crimp and solder a ring connector on the end of fuse holder

If you want to go Pro with this, you could add Heatshrink Tubing to the list of materials, and use almost any heatsource. Before you make the connection on the wires, slide a piece of tubing over one loose end, make the connection, do the solder, then slide the tubing over the connection, add heat, and it will seal up over the exposed wires. This eliminates the need for electrical tape, which we all know gets really nasty in hot conditions. Nice job though doing the HOW TO.
 

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climb21cj said:
If you want to go Pro with this, you could add Heatshrink Tubing to the list of materials, and use almost any heatsource...
Yeah, while I was playing with the solder, I was thinking "Man, heat shrink would be MONEY right now!!". I didn't have any laying around (I do now). But, electrical tape is holding up fine.

I'm thinking I'll add a relay to each outlet so that they only work when the KEY is turned to the ON position. I'll probably run the relay through the tail light wiring since the tail light turns on when Key is at the "ON" position.
 

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stereo....check. :dblthumb

I just picked up an XM Radio (Roady2 for $50 at Best Buy). XM Radio is the BOMMMMMB!!!! My iPod is good for playlists, but I only have about 10-15 hours worth of music that I really actually listen to (my 15GB iPod is loaded with about 14GB of tunes.) Been listening to the SAME stuff over and over....gets old. Kind of annoying that in a 3-4 hour playlist, I know what the next song is gonna be (that's how much I listen to my iPod, currently I have 3 different 4-hour playlists in rotation)

as for the mini-fridge...you gotta draw the line somewhere... :)

Even though motorcycling is an inherently 'minimalist' activity, it never hurts to have a few creature comforts, and music is something I can't live without (especially on LONG road trips, which I'll be doing for the next month or so).
 

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Just getting ready to do the same mod on the bandit. got a question though...

On the power outlet, which wire is + and which is -? That is, is the center contact positive or is it the contact on the side of the outlet? youcan fry your toys if you get em reversed.
 

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Great step by step deal there.

Honestly I would have never thought of putting that on a sportbike.
 
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