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Worked !!!

It may be that your new lever is actually thicker or just not allowing the rod to extend all the way out. Pull the clutch in and look under there to see if the rod is extending all the way out. You may need to just sand that rod down a little bit.
Great Suggestion, my aftermarket lever was thicker and was not allowing the rod pushed out all the way when clutched in. I just sanded the lever notch with a dremmel and voila it works perfect.:banana
Thanks a lot Farsscf for the great suggestion !
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Great Suggestion, my aftermarket lever was thicker and was not allowing the rod pushed out all the way when clutched in. I just sanded the lever notch with a dremmel and voila it works perfect.:banana
Thanks a lot Farsscf for the great suggestion !
No problem, glad to help!
 

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Awesomeness, Inc.
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Good writeup, i might have to do this soon.

Regarding the screws, this exerpt is from this site Cleaning the carbs 1 - Ninja250Wiki

A note on screwdrivers: Motorcyclist magazine, in its May, 2007 edition, had a tech tip for Japanese carburetor screws. Take a close look at the photo above while you read this. This is quoted directly from the magazine, and no one from the board has tried these products, but we do consider this a reliable source:

* It is quite often difficult to get the Phillips screws out of the carburetor float bowl. Those and a lot of other screws on Japanese products...are specifically Japanese Industrial Standard JIS 4633B-3/1991 and DIN/ISO standard 5260. Note the dot in one corner of the cross formed by the slots... The Japanese-style Phillips screwdrivers are available from Ames Supply Company and Katun... Using the normal American/European #1 or #2 Phillips screwdriver in a screw head with the dot on it will most likely strip the head on the first try.


or, like i do, use the screwdriver that came with your underseat toolkit whenever you do anything with a phillips head on the bike. The little dots are in the corner that indicate they're jap-style. The pitch angle is different, thats why they strip easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Good writeup, i might have to do this soon.

Regarding the screws, this exerpt is from this site Cleaning the carbs 1 - Ninja250Wiki

A note on screwdrivers: Motorcyclist magazine, in its May, 2007 edition, had a tech tip for Japanese carburetor screws. Take a close look at the photo above while you read this. This is quoted directly from the magazine, and no one from the board has tried these products, but we do consider this a reliable source:

* It is quite often difficult to get the Phillips screws out of the carburetor float bowl. Those and a lot of other screws on Japanese products...are specifically Japanese Industrial Standard JIS 4633B-3/1991 and DIN/ISO standard 5260. Note the dot in one corner of the cross formed by the slots... The Japanese-style Phillips screwdrivers are available from Ames Supply Company and Katun... Using the normal American/European #1 or #2 Phillips screwdriver in a screw head with the dot on it will most likely strip the head on the first try.


or, like i do, use the screwdriver that came with your underseat toolkit whenever you do anything with a phillips head on the bike. The little dots are in the corner that indicate they're jap-style. The pitch angle is different, thats why they strip easily.
Thanks for that tip
 

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Finally got that ticket
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Well, this just happened to me today also. I'll be fixing it tomorrow probably, and I'll definitely use the screwdriver in the tool kit. I'll let everyone know how it goes. Thanks for writing this up!
 

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Finally got around to fixing this (and doing a necessary oil change) today. The diagrams make it look easy, an it's even easier than that. Mine was just generally gunked up inside with some strange oily black stuff - no bent leads to repair or anything.

Just another reminder that the spring and push button inside the final electrical piece will probably pop out if you're not careful, so make sure you are extra careful or are working over a surface where they won't get lost.

I did run into a 5-minute delay when I completed the fix, tested it for the first time, and it didn't work. Turns out I didn't snap the plastic tabs together quite tightly enough, so the electrical leads still weren't making contact. So just make sure they're in all the way before reinstalling it on the bike.

Easy fix, thanks again for posting.
 

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BOOYAM
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I finally did this repair last week. Very easy to do, but I have one major recommendation. I work with audio equipment (DJ mixers) and one product that I use to clean/lubricate switches, faders and potentiometers is this stuff called Caigs DeoxIT. It's made specifically to clean and lubricate electrical contacts...so its perfect for this sort of thing.

I cleaned and lubricated my contacts with a few drops of DeoxIT and its a smooth as butter! It should last a bit longer than it just being "dry".

Check it out! DeoxIT®

The smaller bottles and sprays are perfect for this. You can also use it on your turn signal switch and kill switch etc (since they are exposed to the elements and can wear out over time).
 

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this is awesome man. great write up. but i just left mine on and juiced it with contact cleaner. then i snipped a small piece off the end of the rod .... bam
 

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Finally got that ticket
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After cleaning and repairing mine twice, and still having problems, I wound up getting mine replaced by the dealer under warranty. Had to bring it in for another problem anyway, so I figured I'd take the new part.
 

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I was having the problem of my bike not starting while the clutch was pulled in and thought my battery was going bad. I replaced my battery and the same problem existed. I have to give thanks for the various tips and how to's available on this site. I just removed my clutch switch and followed the diagrams of the pictures and now my problem is solved. Thanks sooooooooo much.

I'm a female and not mechanical at all. But, with the help of this forum I have replaced by MYSELF head lights, removed factory and installed new exhaust pipe (Yosh), taken off the tale of my bike for minor body work, replaced factory windshield and looking forward to trying to change my oil and filter.

Thanks so much to ALL members who have posted solutions to common problems.

linc2
 

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Cheap Bastid
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Linc, how close are you to New Jersey Motorsport Park? If you're not far & aren't working Mon or Tues you should swing by & check out the track day scene. It's a fun time :) Lemme know if you come, I'll keep an eye out for ya. Shoot me a PM for details.
 

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Where is the Motorsport Park in Jersey, located? I'm approx. 5 mins. away from the Delaware Memorial Bridge and live in Carneys Point.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I was having the problem of my bike not starting while the clutch was pulled in and thought my battery was going bad. I replaced my battery and the same problem existed. I have to give thanks for the various tips and how to's available on this site. I just removed my clutch switch and followed the diagrams of the pictures and now my problem is solved. Thanks sooooooooo much.

I'm a female and not mechanical at all. But, with the help of this forum I have replaced by MYSELF head lights, removed factory and installed new exhaust pipe (Yosh), taken off the tale of my bike for minor body work, replaced factory windshield and looking forward to trying to change my oil and filter.

Thanks so much to ALL members who have posted solutions to common problems.

linc2
glad to help
 

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how do i get ther little screws out if there stripped? i bought it used and i need to try to fix it but cant get out the screws and there to small for my extractor kit...mine only starts in neutral with clutch in or out...but not in gear with clutch...it sux when im at a light or smothing and i stall out and im struggling to find N...any advice? or maybe a jumper to connect to wires till i can fix it? if so witch onees need to be jumped?
 

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how do i get ther little screws out if there stripped? i bought it used and i need to try to fix it but cant get out the screws and there to small for my extractor kit...mine only starts in neutral with clutch in or out...but not in gear with clutch...it sux when im at a light or smothing and i stall out and im struggling to find N...any advice? or maybe a jumper to connect to wires till i can fix it? if so witch onees need to be jumped?
I had the same problem with the two little screws on my clutch switch when I replaced it last weekend. I ended up taking the dremel tool with a small cutting wheel to the screw heads. I was able to remove the screws with vice-grips after cuting them off. I replaced the clutch switch and two screws with OEM screws from ronayers.com. They are very small and the metal is very soft. You definetly need to have the correct size of phillips screwdriver for those little screws or you're going to mess them up.


If I were you I wouldn't go jerry rigging the clutch switch with jumper wires.
 

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ya...i guess the previous owner stripped mine, just as i was about to dremel it i lucked out...i decided to cut the pin down a cm and see if that fixed the prob and it did so i lucked out i guess...i figured if it didnt work id be ordering a new one after the dremel got to it anyway lol...although now the bolt that holds my clutch lever on is stripped now, i tryed to tighten it so the lever was tighter on and not wobble but now the nut doesnt tighten or loosen , just kind of spins..but all well its still pretty tight, just alittle wobble..ill worry bout that if i ever change the lever again
 
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