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Well, hopefully I'll be able to keep this short and sweet with everything you need to know. I got plenty of pics to help illustrate the tutorial. This HID retrofit was done on my CBR F4i. Some of these tips will probably be applicable to other bikes. Use some common sense and try and stay calm because you will probably be pissed off at several points during the installation. I was, but hopefully some of my advice will save you some headaches. If you have any questions, just ask, I'm doing this since I didn't have one and there were several things that I had go wrong. Murphy's law (what can go wrong, will go wrong) was truer than gravity for me.
First things first. Take your upper fairing off. You're going to want to pay attention, and label if necessary where wires go. My advice is to take several pics along the way to aid you in reassembly, and over label things. After you get your fairing off and electrically disconnected from your bike, start on the housing removal. It's not too difficult, just look for the appropriate screws. You should get it down to where all wires and electrical components are off. A heat gun probably works a little better, but I used my oven to heat the housing to pull it apart. The glue it has on it is ridiculously sticky when it touches itself. I heated the oven to 250 F and left it in there for around 7 minutes. The plastic can handle quite a bit of heat, so I wouldn't worry about it melting, but I did set it on a towel covered rack in the oven. After you get it peeled apart, it should look a little like this.
After you get it peeled, remove the stock reflectors. On mine, I just had to unscrew the stock headlight adjusters. Mine had 3 on a side. I couldn't and didn't want to remove the adjusters. It makes it convenient to use them on your retrofit. It's almost necessary unless you want to install adjusters of your own.
To use the stock adjuster, you're going to need to make a bracket unless you're ridiculously lucky and have a projector that fits your adjusters already. I cut mine out of some thin sheet metal. I then painted it black, carefully drilled appropriate sized holes to fit exactly where the adjusters are. You then need to make a semi-close fit of what you're projector is shaped. You'll want it big enough that you're projector will fit and have room for adjustment, but small enough to actually mount the projector to it. You'll also want the hole lined up with the hole in the back of the housing so the projector bulb can be changed and everything. I lined the inner hole with duck tape to keep from scratching the reflector bowl on the projector.
After that, you're probably going to need a level, car battery and somewhere to set the housing. I used a sturdy TV table. Set the housing up as level as possible. This is important because the last thing you want is to have an unlevel cut-off line after you put the bike back together. It'll look like crap, and you won't be able to adjust it without tearing it all back down again. Trust me you don't want to do this, I did but for another reason. Anyway, get the housing level and mark holes on the mounting bracket where you will screw the projector to it. You can probably eye-ball it and make small adjustments later, but if you can come up with a better idea to get it perfectly level, then do it. The old saying about an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure is very applicable in this part. Leveling them was more of a bitch than I had anticipated. I needed spacers to get the correct depth of the projectors. YOu can buy these spacers at hardware stores. You can see how I had it in this pic
If I didn't space it out like that, the rear of the projector and bulb was like this, not what you want.
First things first. Take your upper fairing off. You're going to want to pay attention, and label if necessary where wires go. My advice is to take several pics along the way to aid you in reassembly, and over label things. After you get your fairing off and electrically disconnected from your bike, start on the housing removal. It's not too difficult, just look for the appropriate screws. You should get it down to where all wires and electrical components are off. A heat gun probably works a little better, but I used my oven to heat the housing to pull it apart. The glue it has on it is ridiculously sticky when it touches itself. I heated the oven to 250 F and left it in there for around 7 minutes. The plastic can handle quite a bit of heat, so I wouldn't worry about it melting, but I did set it on a towel covered rack in the oven. After you get it peeled apart, it should look a little like this.

After you get it peeled, remove the stock reflectors. On mine, I just had to unscrew the stock headlight adjusters. Mine had 3 on a side. I couldn't and didn't want to remove the adjusters. It makes it convenient to use them on your retrofit. It's almost necessary unless you want to install adjusters of your own.

To use the stock adjuster, you're going to need to make a bracket unless you're ridiculously lucky and have a projector that fits your adjusters already. I cut mine out of some thin sheet metal. I then painted it black, carefully drilled appropriate sized holes to fit exactly where the adjusters are. You then need to make a semi-close fit of what you're projector is shaped. You'll want it big enough that you're projector will fit and have room for adjustment, but small enough to actually mount the projector to it. You'll also want the hole lined up with the hole in the back of the housing so the projector bulb can be changed and everything. I lined the inner hole with duck tape to keep from scratching the reflector bowl on the projector.

After that, you're probably going to need a level, car battery and somewhere to set the housing. I used a sturdy TV table. Set the housing up as level as possible. This is important because the last thing you want is to have an unlevel cut-off line after you put the bike back together. It'll look like crap, and you won't be able to adjust it without tearing it all back down again. Trust me you don't want to do this, I did but for another reason. Anyway, get the housing level and mark holes on the mounting bracket where you will screw the projector to it. You can probably eye-ball it and make small adjustments later, but if you can come up with a better idea to get it perfectly level, then do it. The old saying about an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure is very applicable in this part. Leveling them was more of a bitch than I had anticipated. I needed spacers to get the correct depth of the projectors. YOu can buy these spacers at hardware stores. You can see how I had it in this pic

If I didn't space it out like that, the rear of the projector and bulb was like this, not what you want.
