Sport Bikes banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 46 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,232 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
A NOTE TO THOSE READING THIS THREAD....... AS A PROFESSIONAL I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANYONE USE RATTLE CAN SPRAY PAINT TO PAINT ANYTHING LIKE BODYWORK. IN THIS TUTORIAL YOU WILL SEE A GREAT EFFORT TO PAINT THIS BIKE BUT IN THE END THE PAINT WILL NOT LAST AND WILL COST YOU WAY MORE IN THE LONG RUN THAN IT WOULD TO PAINT IT THE RIGHT WAY..........THANKS (HYBRID)


First off, we're still experiencing cloud cover so I cant get good sunlight pics.

For those that want to know how I did it here we go.
Things I purchased and prices:
  1. American Traditions Clear Plastic Primer - $3.97 x 2 cans
  2. American Traditions Gray Plastic Primer - $3.97 x 2 cans
  3. Rustoleum Cobalt Metallic Blue - $4.98 x 12 cans
  4. Dupli Color Gun Metal Gray - $4.98 x 3 cans
  5. Dupli Color Top Clear Coat - $4.98 x 8 cans
  6. Paint Remover- eats teh paint off - $4.97 x 2 cans "to much work"
  7. 150 Grit Sand Paper 3M - $1.98 x 1 pack of 5 sheets
  8. 240 Grit Sand Paper 3M - $1.98 x 1 pack of 5 sheets
  9. 320 the same
  10. 600 3M Imperial wetordry $1.98 x 1 pack of 5 sheets
  11. 800 3M Imperial wetordry $2.98 x 1 pack of 5 sheets
  12. 1000 3M Imperial wetordry $2.98 x 3 packs of 5 sheets
  13. 2000 3M Imperial wetordry $2.98 x 3 packs of 5 sheets
  14. Mothers Carbana Wax n restore $7.77 x 1 bottle
  15. Zymol car wax $13.98 x 1 bottle
  16. Bondo spot putty $3.98 x tube
I believe thats everything I bought.

  • First I sprayed the tank with paint remover
  • Then I hosed it down, when I realized it was harsh and burned skin
  • Then I sanded every fairing, starting with 150 grit to remove that blasted clear coat
  • then I moved on to 240 to smoothen the surface down
  • from there I proceeded to apply the Clear primer, accept to the tail cause it was black so it got gray
  • I let the primer set 15 minutes then applied a second coat with no sanding between
  • Two hours passed "per fairing" I then used the 320 to get the bondo and paint rough up, but smooth too
  • I began applying light coat of blue paint to each fairing
  • waiting 5 minutes and applied another light coat
  • waiting 15 minutes and applied a wet coat or thick coat
  • waiting 45 minutes for the paint to cure "fast drying" I sanded with 600 wet sand
  • Applied another coat of blue paint, waiting 20 minutes between, and sanded with 1000 wet sand
  • waited 30 minutes for a good dry surface, and sanded with 1000 wet sand again
  • wash the fairings with mild detergent "soapy water like dial or dawn"
  • proceeded to clear coat, one light coat, 10 minutes, heavy coat
  • sanded them down with 2000 wet sand
  • then a nice thick coat,
  • then as the fairings dried i noticed the bastards oxidized
  • so I bought the mothers restore wax and began to wax the ever loving shit out of them.
  • 1 coat of mothers, wait 5 minutes, a second coat of mothers, wait 20 mins 1 coat of zymol
  • then I applied a wet coat of zymol "dipped the pad in water with the wax" and brought out a great shine
Thats how i did it, if you have any more questions feel free to ask
this whole process took about 8 days 5 hours a day, I have a patient wife and she allowed me to do it in the living room.

Some pictures of the process, and final outcome
 

Attachments

·
Resident Gun Nut
Joined
·
1,092 Posts
did you spray the tank while it was on the bike? how hard was it to strip the pain off the tank if it was still on the bike? i'm thinking about doing a paint job myself, and i'm just curious how hard it was.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
753 Posts
Can you take some better lighted pictures in the daytime next to a normally painted bike so i can see the differences? If this isn't too hard I might do this and get some custom bodywork for my SV.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,232 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
cookhj said:
did you spray the tank while it was on the bike? how hard was it to strip the pain off the tank if it was still on the bike? i'm thinking about doing a paint job myself, and i'm just curious how hard it was.
on my bike the tank you see is actually a cover made of plastic, because it's designed as a race bike, the tank is only the back section and goes down through the cent of the frame.



I'll get some better pics from a factory painted bike this week.
 

·
rebel litre
Joined
·
3,748 Posts
nice job man. did it once myself. did'nt come out quite like i wanted to but it's all good
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Wow from the pics it looks good, but please post up some pics in the sunlight. BTW for anyone wondering I added up the costs, $192.89. Flame away haha
 

·
The Ugly TwatWaffle
Joined
·
8,369 Posts
Looks really nice man, good and sparkly, I do however like the others want to see some daylight pictures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Looks good! :dblthumb

Just make sure you don't ever spill gas or anything else of the nature on it. Even certain cleaners will eat and peel it up in seconds. I'd rent/get/borrow a gun and clearcoat it with 3 part polyurethane to make it durable and shine like a mirror. I never even have to buff. Also 2000 grit may be a little much and may not let the paint stick on well. Wet 600 is the highest I go for final sanding.

Here's a bike I did a bit ago. All durplicor spray paint and 3 part polyurethane clear on top out of a gun. http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/showthread.php?t=8352

Max
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
456 Posts
for that 200 bucks for materials you could spray it with real paint for alot less and get a better finish. spray paint never cures 100%
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,232 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Quik said:
for that 200 bucks for materials you could spray it with real paint for alot less and get a better finish. spray paint never cures 100%
who do you know that will do body work, sand, primer, paint "a non normal color" for 200 bux? please let me know.


shortyali0369 you should paint my bike next.... ---- you being a smartass :twofinger


Just make sure you don't ever spill gas ---- too late, and going to have a poly coat this winter put on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
evils-03-RR said:
First off, we're still experiencing cloud cover so I cant get good sunlight pics.

For those that want to know how I did it here we go.
Things I purchased and prices:
  1. American Traditions Clear Plastic Primer - $3.97 x 2 cans
  2. American Traditions Gray Plastic Primer - $3.97 x 2 cans
  3. Rustoleum Cobalt Metallic Blue - $4.98 x 12 cans
  4. Dupli Color Gun Metal Gray - $4.98 x 3 cans
  5. Dupli Color Top Clear Coat - $4.98 x 8 cans
  6. Paint Remover- eats teh paint off - $4.97 x 2 cans "to much work"
  7. 150 Grit Sand Paper 3M - $1.98 x 1 pack of 5 sheets
  8. 240 Grit Sand Paper 3M - $1.98 x 1 pack of 5 sheets
  9. 320 the same
  10. 600 3M Imperial wetordry $1.98 x 1 pack of 5 sheets
  11. 800 3M Imperial wetordry $2.98 x 1 pack of 5 sheets
  12. 1000 3M Imperial wetordry $2.98 x 3 packs of 5 sheets
  13. 2000 3M Imperial wetordry $2.98 x 3 packs of 5 sheets
  14. Mothers Carbana Wax n restore $7.77 x 1 bottle
  15. Zymol car wax $13.98 x 1 bottle
  16. Bondo spot putty $3.98 x tube
I believe thats everything I bought.

  • First I sprayed the tank with paint remover
  • Then I hosed it down, when I realized it was harsh and burned skin
  • Then I sanded every fairing, starting with 150 grit to remove that blasted clear coat
  • then I moved on to 240 to smoothen the surface down
  • from there I proceeded to apply the Clear primer, accept to the tail cause it was black so it got gray
  • I let the primer set 15 minutes then applied a second coat with no sanding between
  • Two hours passed "per fairing" I then used the 320 to get the bondo and paint rough up, but smooth too
  • I began applying light coat of blue paint to each fairing
  • waiting 5 minutes and applied another light coat
  • waiting 15 minutes and applied a wet coat or thick coat
  • waiting 45 minutes for the paint to cure "fast drying" I sanded with 600 wet sand
  • Applied another coat of blue paint, waiting 20 minutes between, and sanded with 1000 wet sand
  • waited 30 minutes for a good dry surface, and sanded with 1000 wet sand again
  • wash the fairings with mild detergent "soapy water like dial or dawn"
  • proceeded to clear coat, one light coat, 10 minutes, heavy coat
  • sanded them down with 2000 wet sand
  • then a nice thick coat,
  • then as the fairings dried i noticed the bastards oxidized
  • so I bought the mothers restore wax and began to wax the ever loving shit out of them.
  • 1 coat of mothers, wait 5 minutes, a second coat of mothers, wait 20 mins 1 coat of zymol
  • then I applied a wet coat of zymol "dipped the pad in water with the wax" and brought out a great shine
Thats how i did it, if you have any more questions feel free to ask
this whole process took about 8 days 5 hours a day, I have a patient wife and she allowed me to do it in the living room.

Some pictures of the process, and final outcome
Man That Sucks!!!!!!!!!!! :lame
 
1 - 20 of 46 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top