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Discussion Starter #1
Was just flipping through the manual for my bike and I see measurements from 10 to 95Nm or 7 to 69lbs of torque. None of the torque wrenchs seem to cover both of these values.
 

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Yep, you'll need a 1/2 torque wrench which usually starts at around 25lbs, and probably a 3/8 torque wrench which has smaller specs. That is general in all kinds of mechanics. I usually don't torque the less value ones because all I have is a 1/2 in torque wrench and I've been working on things so long I generally know around where I'm torqueing it too, but if you wanna be safe better buy both.
 

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Invest in a good inch/pounds torque wrench. You will pay a little more for a good one but definately worth it if you are going to be in the engine any at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
R&D said:
Invest in a good inch/pounds torque wrench. You will pay a little more for a good one but definately worth it if you are going to be in the engine any at all.
List some good name brands. I know Craftsman, Snap-On....I love Snap-On quality but the prices sky rocket there. Craftsman wants like $150 for theirs and it only has a measly 1 year warranty. Been looking at Draper, seems to be popular, its out of the UK.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
jim schmidt said:
Lots of 3/8" torque wrenches meet these specs.
You mind finding one? All of the ones I've seen that start at 10Nm only go up to 80Nm. Gotta be a good one too, don't want no junk. :neener
 

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Unless you'll need one all the time, try renting from your local auto parts store. Some of them don't even charge beyond a deposit that you get back when you return it.
 

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Craftsman want 150? I only spent 80 on my 1/2 wrench from them and it works great. They had one for 60 but I went with the $80 because I used on like it in shop class. I think the in lbs one was 10 or 20 bucks cheaper. My friend has a snap-on 1/2 and it cost him $240. I would go with a dependable manufacture but if you aren't making a living out of it, don't buy the most expensive. Its just a waiste of money. Like the guy said earlier, if you are going to be in the engine definately buy both. You'll need them. I haven't busted into mine yet but when I do I'll buy the the in lbs wrench to.
 

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I guess i am so old school I still have the bar graph torque wrenches that as you tighten, a needle moves over the graph. I keep them around, but I bought singing torque wrenches 30 years ago. You should always buy the right tools to work on your machines.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thebird_19 said:
Craftsman want 150? I only spent 80 on my 1/2 wrench from them and it works great. They had one for 60 but I went with the $80 because I used on like it in shop class. I think the in lbs one was 10 or 20 bucks cheaper. My friend has a snap-on 1/2 and it cost him $240. I would go with a dependable manufacture but if you aren't making a living out of it, don't buy the most expensive. Its just a waiste of money. Like the guy said earlier, if you are going to be in the engine definately buy both. You'll need them. I haven't busted into mine yet but when I do I'll buy the the in lbs wrench to.
Well I think they have a $80 and a $100 torque wrench, those only have a 90 day warranty. Looks like I might just buy a Draper.
 

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A torque is a must if you working on your car or bike. Everything have a torque value. Like mention above I don't alway torque the small value ones, but for the b***** jobs you need it especially when you doing something on your bike. You don't want something to loose or to tight. exp. You don't want the wheel on your bike too loose OR you don't want your valve cover on too tight, will cause a oil leak.

I only have two LBs and Nm.,both are from NAPA totalling $439.98 I'm a auto and bike mechanic.
Mostly auto, but can do anything on a bike (not certified in motorcycles)
 

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This is the one I have. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...vertical=TOOL&pid=00944595000&tab=spe#tablink

It may only have a 90 day warranty but I've had mine for 2 yrs and works good. It all depends on how you treat your tools. I keep mine clean and put away and you always have to go back to bottom setting or you'll mess up the spring inside it and it won't be accurate anymore. Like I said before, we used these in automotive school because they were cheaper and the only reason we had to replace them is when one of the students threw them down or left the torque value too high. Then it has to be sent in to be recalibrated. Still cheaper than buying a high dollar snap-on or mac tool unless you're planning on going mechanic full time to make money.
 

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Buy one that you send in to recalibrate. I have two snap ons and one is 10 lbs light right now but it has been used daily for the last 5 years with no problems. Some of the cheaper ones with get off and you won't even know it. I would think that accuracy would be more important on the Inch/pounds wrenches since you are dealing with Aluminum and very small bolts.
 

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Every person that works on their own vehicles realize the importance of a torque wrench when they snap off that hard to reach bolt head. Especially on a vital part such as a thermostat cover. Try duct taping that closed as you run to the shop to have it helocoiled.
 

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I have the Craftsman "digilock" basic 1/2" drive one that does both NM & ftlbs, I havn't priced one in a few years though. they don't wear out, if you'll be keeping the interest in doing your own work they are a wise investment :boink

Tom
 

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Even if you find one that ranges over both the small and big torque, get two. The b***** one won't be as accurate at the small values. The click and set ones are a lot easier to use in some situations where you can't easily see the beam one.
 
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