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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I just replaced the LSL street bar with the Coerce Hyper bar and I also installed 12oz bar end weights, and I still have an annoying vibration on the throttle side. I thought by adding the weights it would help out, but for the life of me I don't know why it's just on the throttle side. I made sure the bars are centered. The next step I plan on doing is ordering a stainless steel hollow bar and bring it to a machine shop for them to bend it to the specs I want. I know that LSL sells a stainless bar, but if I'm going to change bars one more time, I think I'll do a custom job where I can get the rise and pullback that I want. I figure I'll do a 30mm rise with a 90mm pullback. This should be low enough yet not hit the tank on full lock and the pullback should be enough yet not hit the mirror at lock. Since my bar end weights are milled to 14mm, I figured I would get a 22mm OD with a 4mm Sidewall leaving me with a 14mm ID. I'm specing the bar about 750mm width so that if need be I can have the machinist cut them to my desired width after all the bends are made.
 

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CerebralAssassin said:
Ok, I just replaced the LSL street bar with the Coerce Hyper bar and I also installed 12oz bar end weights, and I still have an annoying vibration on the throttle side. I thought by adding the weights it would help out, but for the life of me I don't know why it's just on the throttle side. I made sure the bars are centered. The next step I plan on doing is ordering a stainless steel hollow bar and bring it to a machine shop for them to bend it to the specs I want. I know that LSL sells a stainless bar, but if I'm going to change bars one more time, I think I'll do a custom job where I can get the rise and pullback that I want. I figure I'll do a 30mm rise with a 90mm pullback. This should be low enough yet not hit the tank on full lock and the pullback should be enough yet not hit the mirror at lock. Since my bar end weights are milled to 14mm, I figured I would get a 22mm OD with a 4mm Sidewall leaving me with a 14mm ID. I'm specing the bar about 750mm width so that if need be I can have the machinist cut them to my desired width after all the bends are made.
Before going to such lengths, could it be that the throttle grip tube is just a little too loose against the bar, thereby, causing secondary vibrations on your right grip?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
segue00 said:
Before going to such lengths, could it be that the throttle grip tube is just a little too loose against the bar, thereby, causing secondary vibrations on your right grip?
How would I fix that. I know that the electrical control is on real tight, but I wouldn't know how to make the change to the tube itself. The Coerce bars are the standard 7/8" bar.
 

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Try putting "adhesive teflon tape" onto the handlebar near the bar ends to increase diameter of the bar reducing the clearance between the grip tube and the handlebar. Don't make the handlebar too thick that it causes throttle binding. You just need it snug enough and still maintain proper throttle operation.You can get the tape from ebay.
 

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FYI on what has REALLY reduced the vibes on my bike.

I wasn't sure what thread to put this in since there are so many on this subject but here goes. I had pretty much tried them all on my bike i.e. different grips, bar snake, buck shot, also have the heavy Throttlemeister... none of them made much difference.

I recently had my TPS replaced. This past Friday I did a 370 mile trip to the mountains, the first 150+ was interstate. The vibes on the right side are almost none existant. Used to be my right wrist would go numb after about 30 minutes of riding, sometimes sooner. Not a problem anymore.

If you don't have the stalling issue and you have excessive vibes, I'd highly recommend that you have someone check the voltages on your TPS and make sure everything is adjusted properly.
 

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Handlebar vibes caused by TPS??? Yet another symptom attributed to the TPS. Now everyone!!!!-- report your TPS issue and use exessive engine/handlebar vibrations.
 

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maste said:
FYI on what has REALLY reduced the vibes on my bike.

I wasn't sure what thread to put this in since there are so many on this subject but here goes. I had pretty much tried them all on my bike i.e. different grips, bar snake, buck shot, also have the heavy Throttlemeister... none of them made much difference.

I recently had my TPS replaced. This past Friday I did a 370 mile trip to the mountains, the first 150+ was interstate. The vibes on the right side are almost none existant. Used to be my right wrist would go numb after about 30 minutes of riding, sometimes sooner. Not a problem anymore.

If you don't have the stalling issue and you have excessive vibes, I'd highly recommend that you have someone check the voltages on your TPS and make sure everything is adjusted properly.
Ive tried almost everything you have. Maste, do you feel its a huge difference? Is there a way that I could check my TPS voltage myself?
 

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timd99 said:
Ive tried almost everything you have. Maste, do you feel its a huge difference? Is there a way that I could check my TPS voltage myself?

I notice you have an 05 model. How many miles on it? It may vibrate some until it is broken in.

If you have a few thousand miles on it, it may need a TB synch (it may not have been done correctly at the factory).

Also another thing that can cause vibration is the engine mounting bolts not being torqued correctly, this could have occured at the factory also.
 

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timd99 said:
Ive tried almost everything you have. Maste, do you feel its a huge difference? Is there a way that I could check my TPS voltage myself?
I'd say it's huge. I used to have to use my Throttlemeister frequently to give my right wrist a break, don't need to anymore. Overall, the engine is running a lot smoother, almost feel like I have a new bike after 14.5K miles!

When I took it in to the dealer I had not had any error codes yet for the stalling issue, but the tech at the dealer said they could tell the TPS was bad by checking the voltages. I'm not mechanically inclined enough to answer your question, but I would imagine the shop manual will tell you how, I didn't mess with it since it was still under warranty.
 
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