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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just like to know if anybody has installed any additional grounds to there bike.I had added several grounds to a car I used to have and seemed like it worked it might have just been in my head.I hear alot of japanese cars have additional grounds.
 

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As long as your current ground wire is in good condition, there is no need to do this. If something like this would ever even make a difference, it would only do so because it was fixing a prexisting problem.
 

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yeah sounds like bunk to me... you'd be better off losing 5 lbs, that would probably make more of a difference.
 

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zx7rhitch said:
I just like to know if anybody has installed any additional grounds to there bike.I had added several grounds to a car I used to have and seemed like it worked it might have just been in my head.I hear alot of japanese cars have additional grounds.

Your definatly on the right track!!! http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/

Theres a HUGE write up regarding just this at Old Skool Suzuki. The Jap bikes have really crap wiring and are done in a really fekked up way, too many crimps all over wire size too small and loads of other faults....

I assure you if you go look at Rossis bike and then yours the wiring on yours will look nothing like what you see on Rossis.....

Theres about 60 guys there that have done complete rewiring of there bikes using quality relays and connectors soldered on larger gauge wire and they pretty much all agree on... the bike starts MUCH quicker. The Lights are brighter. The engine feels noticably more responsive. The bikes idle smoother and maybe 1 or 2 guys said they didnt really see a difference....

Older GSXR's had a bad rap regarding the ignition coils and weak spark. Its the fucked way the factory genuises wired it to save a penny on each wire connector so the profit is b***** and he gets his rolex watch from sacuachi gismo faster..... :boid
 

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Guys on the TL Planet do this to their TL's. They call it the grounding mod. They swear they get a better response from the bike and a few more hp. They say as well that the wiring is fair at best and grounding is currently poor.
 

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I'd like to see some kind of tangable data before I ever did this to a bike. Perception is key here. If you do a mod and *think* it's going to make the bike more responsive, then you will most likely perceive it is.
 

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Anti-Hero said:
I'd like to see some kind of tangable data before I ever did this to a bike. Perception is key here. If you do a mod and *think* it's going to make the bike more responsive, then you will most likely perceive it is.
You're absolutely right, but w/ the vibrations we know our bikes deal with and the "possibly" iffy wiring, it's no stretch at all to believe it will help if you know the intracacies of electronics. It doesn't take much to throw them just a bit out of whack. And throttle response that's a bit out of whack in a corner just as you're expecting the suspension to do one thing but does another, well, we all know what can happen there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I know I wasnt crazy I thought it just might be so.Im going to see what I kind info there is on the subject
 

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Unless there is a preexisting faulty GND connection this is BS. I won't ever believe it unless I see some proof that adding more GNDs to a bike's already minimal electronics suite makes a difference at the dyno. I don't even know, do most modern machines use a starpoint configuration for their grounding? There can't be that many components that need direct access to a GND - especially on old-SKOOL biles. Whatever, it's BS anyway.
 

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Since this is kind of my game, A lot of Japanese car guys do it because many of the modded cars were intended as economy cars and weren't intended to be massively modified, thus they put a crappy small alternator on, an anemic battery, and wiring to support just that much. When you go putting thousand watt amplifiers and high performance coil systems you are asking a lot more from the electrical system than it was designed to do, wiring included, so upgrading all aspects of the charging/electrical system is necessary or you risk sub par performance of your accessories, or possibly damage due to low voltage conditions. As far as a bike, the only factor here would be if it's current demands are being met and not hindered by the factory charging system and wiring/connections. I have looked at the wiring on my bike and it seems ok but I would not by any means call beefing up the factory wiring useless.. But If you know what you are doing and , it can only help.
 

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As the previous people have said. The only time you need additional grounds is when you are overloading what ground you already have.
 

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vuu16v said:
You're absolutely right, but w/ the vibrations we know our bikes deal with and the "possibly" iffy wiring, it's no stretch at all to believe it will help if you know the intracacies of electronics. It doesn't take much to throw them just a bit out of whack. And throttle response that's a bit out of whack in a corner just as you're expecting the suspension to do one thing but does another, well, we all know what can happen there.
Then I think you point out we have a reason to flashback to science class in junior high. Let's bust out the scientific process. We have enough for a hypothesis now I want to see someone conduct an experiment. We need someone to run their bike on a dyno and record some lap times. Now rewire their bike and run another dyno and record more lap times. Publish results and include the cost of rewiring your bike.

I am still going to put money on losing 5 lbs as being easier, more effective, and healthier!
 

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Hmmm...Sounds like the bullshit they sell for DIY sport compact ricers, the only thing these help are the guy's wallets that decided to get their share of the import tuning aftermarket. Think you can get improved performance and gas mileage from a grounding kit? :bitchslap HAH :lao . Go ahead and waste your $50-$100.
 

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The Buzz said:
As far as a bike, the only factor here would be if it's current demands are being met and not hindered by the factory charging system and wiring/connections
I'm going to take it a step further and say even if the bike's current demands aren't being met then this still doesn't apply. The only thing I can think of where this might apply would be if the spark plug wires were bunk and causing a poor spark? With all the modern electronics and circuit protection with voltage regulators and the like - not to mention the digital architecture of the new bikes using CAN - if a component wasn't receiving enough current then it would just stop working - it's not like your ECU would tell the injectors to use half the fuel because it was only receiving 1 amp vs. 1.5 amps.

It's either going to work or it's not going to work - and adding a new and imroved GND will take the bike from a "non-working" state to a "working" state only (and only if the GND was funked up to begin with), not from state where it's producing 100hp and upping it to 104hp. Of course I'm under the assumption that there aren't any faulty wiring conditions which I think is the original poster's idea as well.
 

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ty454 said:
It's either going to work or it's not going to work - and adding a new and imroved GND will take the bike from a "non-working" state to a "working" state only (and only if the GND was funked up to begin with), not from state where it's producing 100hp and upping it to 104hp. Of course I'm under the assumption that there aren't any faulty wiring conditions which I think is the original poster's idea as well.
Electrical systems are not in the digital domain. The computers might be, but the battery and wires that feed them are subject to fluxuations + or -. I am not making the argument that you would gain 4 hp from a wire swap, but rather that equipment might not run optimally if the electrical system is lacking too much in a category. Your battery sits at around 12.5 volts and is charged while the bike is running from 13.5-15 volts. If there is too much of a load and the alternator/battery can't supply it, the voltage will drop, and problems will happen. If voltage drops too much, some systems may shut off but some may work intermittently or incorrectly.

As long as there are no bad wires or connections, the charging system is working correctly, and there aren't upgrades that draw way more than the bike was designed to supply, then the factory system should be fine. But again upgrading wire is never a bad idea, but don't think it's going to do something it won't performance wise. Just basic physics and electrical. I work on car electronics every day and see problems caused by overloading a weak system all the time. I realize bikes are different and I have a pretty hard time thinking of anything you could add to a bike that could stress the electical system to the point of bogging it down.
 

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The Buzz said:
I have a pretty hard time thinking of anything you could add to a bike that could stress the electical system to the point of bogging it down.
Heated gear can easily overwhelm a bike's electrics. It usually just kills the battery from not getting a charge while riding.
 

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well ive benn a lurker here for awhile but i have been in the electronics field for 17 years. so i will pipe in here
Yes hp come from combustion but.... better spark can burn more of the fuel quicker.
however the spark plugs are their own ground so you will not gain anything there.
as far as having multiple grounds go the current will always follow the path of least resistance. if you had ground bus with 15 grounds only one of the grounds will be doing 90+% of the work. the reason most car guys add multiple grounds is simply to save wire and the frame ground of a vehicle actully offers some protection to the battery by offering a little more resistance.

all this being said i would make sure that
A. the current ground is not on a painted surface or least has a unpainted tapped screw hole.
B. that there is no corrosion on or around the ground connection(or inside of any crimp connections)

whenever to disimilar metals come into contact with each other there is a process called galvonic(sp?) response. add a little current flow and this speeds up the process.
that is what all that whitish green stuff is around your battery terminals if you have not changes the battery recently.

hope it helps alot of you guys on here have helped me with my riding by posting you know now i hope to return the favor



Todd
 
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