[2_wheeled_slave]

Thereinlies the problem. I kinda just bought it late one night on ebay. I've got a few questions that I know can be answered by guys on here. I appreciate all the help I can get.

1) Can anybody tell if these are xenon or bi-xenon? What's the differences?

2) Can you run two bulbs/projectors off one ballast? I assume you can't, but it's worth asking.

3) Has anyone just put on the low beam on an F4i (or any other bike with a split light configuration), and does it look like it has a "black eye"? I'd prefer it to look symmetrical if I can, which is why I asked question #2.

I'm sure more will come up as I get started, but these will do for now. Thanks in advance!

 

[2_wheeled_slave]

Oh yeah, and what XXXXK would give me a nice white light with a little blue?

 

[killernoodle]

Make sure you have enough room behind your fairings to mount that thing, it looks really big and bulky.

Is it worth it for HIDs? Seems like a lot of money and complexity and weight for just lighting. I switched my bulbs out with 8500K bulbs a couple weeks ago and they look like HIDs.

HID projectors have a certain angle they need to be to take advantage of their light shape. They are designed to only illuminate the road in front of you, the fan shape should be level with the horizon and angled just slightly downward.

No, you cant run two bulbs off of one ballast IIRC. Been a while since I messed with arc lamps and ballasts and stuff.

And whats wrong with a little lack of symmetry?

:cheers

 

[2_wheeled_slave]

MY headlight setup is b***** than that on your FZ, so although it is big, I'm pretty sure it can be made to fit. My only concern now, is if I buy another single, it will be the same size. I may have to sell this one and buy two projectors so they'll be the same.

 

[ZXRon]

1) In looking at the ballast/connector, it looks like a standard D2 xenon. Basically, bi-xenon means both low and high beams are HID. A lot of people on ebay and elsewhere are selling bulbs/kits listed as bi-xenon, when in reality they are just a single bulb with some form of mechanical gizmo to either move the bulb to change the focus or that moves a shield in and out of the way of the lower part of the bulb. These are known to be problematic at best.

2) No.

3) Can't help here .. no idea.

 

[2_wheeled_slave]

1) In looking at the ballast/connector, it looks like a standard D2 xenon. Basically, bi-xenon means both low and high beams are HID. A lot of people on ebay and elsewhere are selling bulbs/kits listed as bi-xenon, when in reality they are just a single bulb with some form of mechanical gizmo to either move the bulb to change the focus or that moves a shield in and out of the way of the lower part of the bulb. These are known to be problematic at best.

This worries me because it appears to have a moveable shield behind the projector. It looks so bulky becaue I believe that it has a motor (all removable it seems) attached to it to make it work. I do believe that it's a legit Mercedes HID because it has German writing on the ballast. Hopefully I'm not a fool for believing so. If it is this type, could I just run it with the shield down as a dim light without problems? Basically what I'm asking is if the "problematic" part is when switching from dim to bright. HELP!! Sorry, don't want to fuck this up.

 

[2_wheeled_slave]

bump

 

[ZXRon]

Been off the board a bit. If it's a legit OEM complete unit, then the movable 'shield' may be part of the autoaiming mechanism ... and normal. I don't know if it will work in a retrofit install as I've never tried it. Basically, all OEM hid that come on cars out of the manufacturer have an autoleveling motor in them to keep them from blinding oncoming drivers by automatically (or in some older cases, manually via a switch on the dash) adjust the light height to account for the tail being weighted down, vehicle angle, etc.

The shield I was referring to is an opaque shield that will cover and uncover the lower part of the bulb to 'simulate' high and low beam.

Here's an example of one off ebay .. both closed (low beam) and open ('high' beam)

 

[ZXRon]

Oh yeah, and what XXXXK would give me a nice white light with a little blue?

A lot of the 'blue' people associate with HIDs these days is from the color shifting in projector lenses at the cutoff point giving them this purple to blue look when coming down the road.

OEM is 4300-5000K, and gives max light output. Bright yellow-free white light. The 5000 I put in my bike is just a TAD bluer than the OEMs in my Acura.

6000K will give you a slightly blue tint without sacrificing much light output.

8000K is fairly blue, and basically the max I'd go for street use.

10000k is basically a purplish-blue light, and has a fair amount of lost lumens, and IMO just for show over function.

Anything over 10k is useless for night use IMO.