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I Love to ride, but now that I work constantly, I have no time to figure out what I need to do to keep my bike running well. I have an 02 F4i, which I bought last April and have had nothing done except had the oil changed twice at the dealer. I was going to take it back, but then I found out Honda recomends 7000 mile intervals for oil changes. But I read about biked for sale where guys change it every thousand miles. Should I be changing it more? I've also seen things about valve adjustments. Is this something I have to have done as well? What benefit does it give? I have everything done at the dealer. I'm mildly Mechanically inclined, but I dont trust myself to take apart and put together something I depend on at 100+ MPH. I've been riding for almost 4 years, but I never have a bike long enough to worry about any sort of repair or maintnance. What do I need to know? :dunno
 

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Order an owner's manual from Honda for starters. Also pick up an aftermarket (Haynes/Clymer) manual. These will give you the service intervals and tell you about how to handle routine maintenance.

7000 mile interval oil change? I'd be impressed with that. Bikes are like cars usually. 3000 miles is the normal interval and that's what I would recommend. 1000 miles is just plain wrong.

Valve adjustments are periodic and the service manuals will tell you the interval. It does need to be done if you want your engine last. Intervals for valve adjustments vary but 15-25K miles is a typical range. If your bike has never had it done, it isn't a bad idea to do it if it has over 15000 miles on it. Getting the dealer to do it is somewhat pricey (one of the reasons I do it myself).
 

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Your owner's manual give you an idea of when you need to do certain maintanence.

The easy stuff that everyone should be able to do:
change the oil and filter
lube the chain
check the tires for air and wear
check brake pads for wear

More advanced but doable:
flush and change the coolant
change the brake fluid
replacing the brake pads
cleaning or changing the air filter

There are a lot of other things but those are the majors aside from the valve clearance check. I haven't done one on a modern sportbike engine but that one looks like it takes time and skill.
 

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1000 mile oil changes are a silly waste of time and money and resources. You can change the oil on that bike in 10 minutes. Do it every 3K if you want to be anal. If I recall the majority of breakdown in viscosity occurs basically immediately. The only reason to change oil is that it gets dirty. Get service manual on ebay for $5 on cd and print out the pages when you need them.
 

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I do oil changes every 2.5-3k and have not had any issues. Like the other's have said get a service manual and do the basic stuff yourself, you'll save some cash and learn more about the bike.
 

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I agree with the others. Download the service manual or if you are like me and require a hard copy, get it off of ebay. The F4i is not a high maintainance bike. I've owned 2 of them and the biggest pain is changing the CCT lifter. It doesn't really need to be done, but gets rid of the bb's in a can sound when it happens.

IIRC valves are to be checked at 16K, but they rarely, rarely need adjusted at this interval unless you are just flogging the hell out of the bike and keeping the needle in the red.
 

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yeah oil change every 2.5 or 3 and pick up a manual it makes it so easy i wirk at a mechanics shop in boise for bikes so its easy for me i just go in early or stay a bit after a get it done.
 

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Josh D said:
The F4i is not a high maintainance bike. I've owned 2 of them and the biggest pain is changing the CCT lifter. IIRC valves are to be checked at 16K.
Can you give me a rundown of the scheduled maintenance for the 02' f4i. I bought one a few weeks ago and didn't get the owners manual with it. I downloaded the service manual but didn't see a maintenance section in there, odd, but whatever. Any help that you can provide would be huge, thanks in advance.

-Matt
 

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I do my oil changes NO more than 2K, usually closer to 1.5

Also, if ur running high revs for extended periods u need to move that closer, I have done two track days (160 miles) and about 200 street miles and Ill change mine before my next track day (the 19th)

As for the other stuff, on my bike at least, the air filter is cake, the brake bads are cake, taking the tire off is cake, brake fluid is easy too but its a pain in the ass to bleed the brakes completely.... The only stuff I wont do is dig into the engine.. Ill pay someone to do that
 

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my problem is the little fact that I'm not technically allowed to do things like oil changes in my apartment parking lot. Kind of annoying really
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Josh D said:
Ithe biggest pain is changing the CCT lifter. It doesn't really need to be done, but gets rid of the bb's in a can sound when it happens.
Ok, sounds good. Changing the CCT Lifter. (what's that?) And getting rid of the BB's in a can sound. Is that the slight rattle type noise I hear right around 3-5 rpm? It's done that since I bought the bike. I usually dont even notice it unless I'm listening really close, but it's def there. What is that? Oh, and I do Flog the Hell out of that bike. (So far I'm the only one I know who can still lift up the front end of a completely stock F4i at 60 MPH.) (Maybe everyone else is just smarter than to try to do that)
 

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Engine longevity: 2 factors maintenance and how hard it is worked. No engine is an exception to this. Make sure your valve clearance is correct, all cooling and lubricating systems are filled and working properly, and pretty much every other component either will be working correctly or you will know it (won't perform right at all). Other than that, even if you do all your own work and you know how to do it all correctly, its still a good idea to have a shop/mechanic look over everything once. I am capable of doing everything, but when my bike hits somewhere between 15-20k i'm going to take it to a mechanic to have everything looked over. The mechanic should find anything I miss. Finding a problem before it has its bad effects will save you shit load of money as well. Look everything over as much as possible, every oil change should be the longest you wait to look everything over. Check your oil/cooling/lubrication as much as possible, weekly if you can. I'd say change oil between 2-3k depending on how you drive/ride. Engines can be fine longer but there is going to be no added benefit changing your oil before 2k. Oil is cheap and it is the blood of your bike. Unlike humans it can't clean itself, wouldnt you want new perfect blood as much as possible if you couldnt clean it yourself? After 2k miles the additional wear from the "older" oil is still negligible, you won't notice a difference at all from changing your oil at 2k or 3k
 

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I change mine about every 1500 or 4-6 weeks. Sometimes if I really ride it hard, like 100 MPH blasts for 30 to 40 miles at a time, I will change it sooner...I change it when it looks dark and I can't see through it...As for Valve adjustments...about 12-16K it should be done
 

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my problem is the little fact that I'm not technically allowed to do things like oil changes in my apartment parking lot. Kind of annoying really
Are you on the first floor? Ride that baby inside and change it in there.
 

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I have the book here and I will give a general summary of what to check at what time. I won't include everything like "check idle speed" or "evaporative emission system"

8,000 mi

Inspect-
fuel line
throttle operation
spark plugs
coolant and system
brake fluid
pads
fasteners
tires

12,000 mi

replace-
air cleaner
brake fluid

16,000 mi

replace plugs and inspect everything else including valves


I will stop there because after you get the general idea of when to do stuff, it becomes pretty redundant. I check my tires, chain, fluids, etc. anyway, not only at certain times. Some things were left off, they recommend oil+filter at 8,000mi intervals, but my bikes have always got them at 3,000. And with every bike, you should clean and lube the chain every 500 miles or so.

The CCT lifter, aka CCT, is the part that looses it's strength on the F4i's and causes that bb's sound. It usually loud enough to hear at certain rpms, but one of my bikes did it at idle too. About 5K rpms is a common area to hear it at. CCT stands for the Cam Chain Tentioner, although it is actually the cam chain tentioner lifter that goes bad. A company called APE makes a manual CCTL that replaces the OEM part. The OEM part will just keep going out on you, a manual one will not. They are located in a crappy place, right inside the right frame rail. If you want to replace it and get rid of that bb's in a can noise, do a search, there has been much written on it.
 

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SteveR6 said:
my problem is the little fact that I'm not technically allowed to do things like oil changes in my apartment parking lot. Kind of annoying really

Hey Steve, if ya want to take your bike on a little spin you could change that oil at my place. I'm sixty miles away form Madison. We could carve up some roads down here before you go back.
 

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H20Max - the 'BBs in a can' sound you are hearing is most likely detonation. At that low RPMs it is probably tip in detonation. Has the bike had it's fuel map changed? If so, it might need to have it fixed or updated.

If you need some help you are welcome to hit me up. I have most common tools. I live in Columbus on the westside.
 

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Don't mean to stomp on your post, but is is definately NOT detonation. I have had 2 F4i's, both of them made the sound, and both of them quit making the sound after installing the manual CCT lifter. Go to www.cbrworld.net and you'll find about 100 people who will tell you the exact same thing. The bb's in a can sound the CCT makes is well known and about 95% of F4i's have the problem.
 

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Thanks Josh, I Didn't know that about the F4s. Everyone who ever hears detonation usually describes it exactly as H20Max does: BBs or marbles in a can.

Interesting how the Hondas have changed since I sold my F2.
 
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