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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Am preping for the R6 Fork mod and was wondering how to get the front axle off the bike. Went into the bike shop today to drop off the forks & calipers to have everything checked out and get pads, brake fluid, blah blah blah.

Anyway, while I was there I saw an axle removal tool from Motion Pro. Cost me $30 but figured it would be worth it. It has a 17mm, 19mm, 22mm, & 24mm hex head on it and 3/8" drive hole on both sides. It's made of 7075 T6 aluminum and has a torque ratin of 90ft lb on the 3/8" drive hole. That rating is above what we need: 52ftlb for FZ6, 66ftlb on R6.
The part number: MP Part#: 08-0355, part No: 3810-0011

Just though I'd pass the info along in case anybody else is lookin for something to use on the axle.
 

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DO NOT USE THE 3/8" DRIVE HOLE!!!!!

Believe me, I can tell you from first hand experience the f#$!er will shatter. The unfortunate side effect for me was that I was not wearing gloves and tore right through the skin between my finger and thumb on the sharp aluminum edge...fun!

I know the torque rating of the MotionPro tool (that's what I have) is higher than what the axle is supposed to be torqued to, but don't risk it. Get a 22mm socket ( I think that's the right size) and use it on the side opposite the 19mm end. This will work like a charm.

Just trying to save a fellow rider some pain ;)
 

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All you need is to use the back side of a sparkplug wrench. A special tool or 19mm hex is not needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
bugduc said:
DO NOT USE THE 3/8" DRIVE HOLE!!!!!

Believe me, I can tell you from first hand experience the f#$!er will shatter. The unfortunate side effect for me was that I was not wearing gloves and tore right through the skin between my finger and thumb on the sharp aluminum edge...fun!
Sounds painfull ...... maybe I'll use the socket idea instead, save myself the risk. I did see the sitcher on the thing that recommends using the socket for higher then 90ftlbs tourqe but I'm going to use stay on the safe side. I wanna be able to ride after I'm done with this after all.
 

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I'm cheap..

Well when I replaced my rims a few months back I was cheap so I just went to Lowes picked up a 19mm bolt and 2 nuts and stuck them together and it worked great for me, was going to get it all welded up but since it never slipped I decided to just leave well enough alone for now. Oh forgot to mention this may have cost me $2.00 give or take.
 

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i tried the bolt and nut rig on my fz1 but the nuts just kept backing off the bolt. i tried the sparkplug tool trick but the open end kept spinning on my wrench. it did fit well. just dropped the $12 at mcmaster.com for the right tool. made removing the axel a piece of cake.
 

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WTVa said:
Well when I replaced my rims a few months back I was cheap so I just went to Lowes picked up a 19mm bolt and 2 nuts and stuck them together and it worked great for me, was going to get it all welded up but since it never slipped I decided to just leave well enough alone for now. Oh forgot to mention this may have cost me $2.00 give or take.

+1 WTV and I must have great minds because we think alike. Well maybe him but anyone that knows me would not put mind and great in the same sentence. Anyway worked like a charm for $2
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hum, why didn't I think of that :rolleyes I just saaw the tool at the shop and bought it while I was there, useing a bolt w/ nuts didn't even dawn on me.
If you don't get it welded together try putting some 2 part epoxy on the threads of the bolt, under the bolt head, and on top/bottom of the nuts. That should be enough to hold everything together for what it's used for.
 
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