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Discussion Starter #1
here we go I just sold my crf50 and bought me a 01 f4i with 1266 miles on it, bank repo. bike sat for 5 or 6 months, we put a battery in it and it won't fire, don't hear the fuel pump priming up? so we spray ether in to see if it will fire, yup getting spark, runs on ether and dies after it's all gone lol.

wire the fuel pump direct with a jumper to the battery and it primes but still don't get fuel to throttle bodies to start her up.

my question is what in this bikes system will allow this thing not to get fuel and fire? could it be that the fuel pump is just weak and on the verge of taking a poo, or wut, but it still don't explain why the fuel pump didn't prime with the regular wiring on keyon, but it did when we jumped to the battery!

is there a fuel relay? fuse? I checked all fuses and they are all good. all wires plugged in, it don't have plastics on it but the gauges are there and the tip over sensor is still there and plugged in, enough fuel in tank............


I would be greatly appreciated if anyone with knowledge of this problem or these bikes information would be awesome.

P.S. if anyone has the diagnostic codes I am going to try to pull them as well.

THANKS IN ADVANCE.

Ron
 

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This will sound dumb, but you double checked the Engine Kill is set to off (right clip on). Is it the same if you try to push start it? I'd think with no carbs that sitting too long wouldn't be as much of an issue, but my 01 F4i is around 50k miles so it's never sat long. Did you dump and replace the fuel?

I rarely hear my pump upon turning the key, usually the instrument cluster self checking
 

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Oh, the poor fiddy...


I don't have a specific answer, but the first things that I would do is drain the gas, change the oil, change the plugs, and check the obvious...the kill switch.

If you need me to look up anything in the tech manual...or if you would like to "see it", just let me know :D


Off topic, the vids you guys have on m50m rock :headbang My friend Dave and I got 60's style bells on our fiddys after seeing one on one of the bikes in one of your vids.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Moses said:
Oh, the poor fiddy...


I don't have a specific answer, but the first things that I would do is drain the gas, change the oil, change the plugs, and check the obvious...the kill switch.

If you need me to look up anything in the tech manual...or if you would like to "see it", just let me know :D


Off topic, the vids you guys have on m50m rock :headbang My friend Dave and I got 60's style bells on our fiddys after seeing one on one of the bikes in one of your vids.

ok I am not new to big bikes lol, yes the kill switch is in the run position lol, I have checked and swapped relays out that i had gotten from buddies shop no go. I have been told to check the continuity on the diode on the ignition switch?, I still don't get no vroom......

new plugs oil is fresh, all wires connected.

MOSES you got a manual?


btw the bell you are referring to is SonicJay, pretty cool cat.
 

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GIXXERGUY said:
MOSES you got a manual?
Service manual, microfiche, etc...

Check your PMs.
 

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Is the tip over sensor setup right? Disconnect the headlight plug and run a jumper wire from the red wire to the green wire which will close that circuit. It sounds like something isn't right there. Then see if it kicks on the fuel pump. I've had problems with my 01 and my cousins 02 but it has always been a blown fuse or a bad connection with the tip over switch. I just always bypass it and test it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
thebird_19 said:
Is the tip over sensor setup right? Disconnect the headlight plug and run a jumper wire from the red wire to the green wire which will close that circuit. It sounds like something isn't right there. Then see if it kicks on the fuel pump. I've had problems with my 01 and my cousins 02 but it has always been a blown fuse or a bad connection with the tip over switch. I just always bypass it and test it.

are you talking about the connector for the headlight or for the tipover switch
"Disconnect the headlight plug and run a jumper wire from the red wire to the green wire which will close that circuit"

I WAS JUST INFORMED BY A GUY ON EBAY i AM LOOKING AT HIS BIKE HE HAD ISSUES WITH AN 02 NOT FIRING AND HE PLUGGED IN THE HEADLIGHTS AND IT FIRED. i TRIED GROUNDED THE GROUND OUT TO THE FRAME AND IT STILL NO GO, SO i AM IN THE SAME BOAT NOW.

P.S IF ANYONE NEEDS THE PDF FOR THE F4I HIT ME UP ON PM'S
 

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You don't need the headlight hooked up if you run that jumper. The tipover sensor is attached to the headlight and the two wires I said to close circuit are the ones that keep it from running when the light isn't connected.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
thebird_19 said:
You don't need the headlight hooked up if you run that jumper. The tipover sensor is attached to the headlight and the two wires I said to close circuit are the ones that keep it from running when the light isn't connected.

give me a few minutes and i'll givee you a picture from another site.

 

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^ Thats what I mean, but yours isn't a CA model is it. It shouldn't have an 02 sensor unless its a ca model. If that doesnt' do it, I'd trace the wires through the system back to the fuel pump and test them with a multimeter. You may just have a bad connection or a dirty connector somewhere. I just installed an alarm with remote start on mine the other day and had a heck of a time getting the pump to work with the remote start. I'd put the key in and it would work, but it wouldn't power it up. I finally gave up and put everything back together and it started working??? It still sounds like something from one of your connectors or switchs. You also might try taking apart your kill switch and cleaning it. The connections in it get dirty sometimes and screw with the power transfer.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
update........still not running

swapped harness's and ecm, rectifier

no fuel pump runnage, but if I jump the connector at the relay it will buzz and pump, but won't cut off(due to the fact I have a constant connection to it.

I have reverified the tipover switch is good, kickstand switch is bypass'd and has continuity in the wires, I tried bypass'n the gauges and still nothing.

the only thing I have not tested is the resistor in the ignition, but if I tested the ignition for continuity like the honda manual says then I shouldn't have to test the resistor right?

I don't think the bike is getting spark either, cuz i pulled number 4 coil/boot and put a screw driver in it and held it to the frame and no arcage.

please help i am about ready to sell it back to the guy I bought it from, but don't want to, it has 1266 race miles which is about 5k street miles, looks good, and will serve my purpose well and for a great price $2k(was a bank repo)

HELP ME GET ON THE ROAD.

PEACE
 

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Don't sell it back. It still sounds like its in that switch. Try another ignition switch and like I said I've heard of the kill switches getting corroded inside and not allowing it to make a good contact. That would also make it not spark or the fuel pump start. Try bypassing the kill switch if you can't find another one to try. Too bad you live that far away cuz I'd help you look for the problem. I'm pretty good with these bikes now since mine is a 01 and my cousin has an 02 and we just swapped the engine in my brothers 99. He is carbed but the fi is much better. Just gotta get the system functioning. If everything is hooked up though and you get power to everything but the pump and no spark, I would say its most likely the kill switch, because that is what controls both the initial pump startup as well as the spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thebird_19 said:
Don't sell it back. It still sounds like its in that switch. Try another ignition switch and like I said I've heard of the kill switches getting corroded inside and not allowing it to make a good contact. That would also make it not spark or the fuel pump start. Try bypassing the kill switch if you can't find another one to try. Too bad you live that far away cuz I'd help you look for the problem. I'm pretty good with these bikes now since mine is a 01 and my cousin has an 02 and we just swapped the engine in my brothers 99. He is carbed but the fi is much better. Just gotta get the system functioning. If everything is hooked up though and you get power to everything but the pump and no spark, I would say its most likely the kill switch, because that is what controls both the initial pump startup as well as the spark.

BUT IF THE BIKE WILL CRANK OVER THEN THE SWITCH IS WORKING.?

I don't know I am going down to mess with the switch to see if it's nasty or not and i'll let you know later.

peace and thanks for the help

Ron
 

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Ok, I'm not sure, I'll look at mine later and see what I can think of. You said you checked your fuses right? Did you just pull them and look or did you use a test light? Sometimes they can look fine but be blown and the only way to know is with a test light, but it still seems like a bad connection if its not sparking either. I'll have to get my manual out when I get home and go through each thing that controls both of those functions. I really don't think its your ignition switch or diode in it or whatever, because if that was messed up you shouldn't have power anywhere and it wouldn't crank.
 

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I'll be willing to bet that it's your ignition switch.

I had a 954RR that wouldn't start and I did all of the following:
* checked all fuses
* drain and replace gas
* replaced plugs
* changed wire harness (twice)
* changed fuel pump
* changed left and right hand controls
* changed brain box (PGM-FI)
* changed all relays

Finally, the ignition switch. They have a small resistor built into the bottom that will tend to fry out (for what reason???? I don't know). I'll bet that's your problem.
 

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ncpartsguy said:
I'll be willing to bet that it's your ignition switch.

I had a 954RR that wouldn't start and I did all of the following:
* checked all fuses
* drain and replace gas
* replaced plugs
* changed wire harness (twice)
* changed fuel pump
* changed left and right hand controls
* changed brain box (PGM-FI)
* changed all relays

Finally, the ignition switch. They have a small resistor built into the bottom that will tend to fry out (for what reason???? I don't know). I'll bet that's your problem.

How does the system get power at all if the resistor in the switch is burned out? Wouldn't it not do anything?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
ncpartsguy said:
I'll be willing to bet that it's your ignition switch.

I had a 954RR that wouldn't start and I did all of the following:
* checked all fuses
* drain and replace gas
* replaced plugs
* changed wire harness (twice)
* changed fuel pump
* changed left and right hand controls
* changed brain box (PGM-FI)
* changed all relays

Finally, the ignition switch. They have a small resistor built into the bottom that will tend to fry out (for what reason???? I don't know). I'll bet that's your problem.

checked the fuses with multi-meter, the compression feels a lil weak when coming out of header, buddy is coming over in a few we'll check that out.

pulled the ignition switch and checked continuity of the resistor(good) like I figured. someone said that the resistor is something to do with if someone punches the ignition it fries the resistor and won't start.

I am getting 12.24 volts to the coil packs, and when I hit the key i get 10. cuz of starter drain, but shouldn't I be getting something like 100 volts or something?

i don't know

if the compression is fucked then I am selling it back to the guy i got it from, he already said he would.

let you know later

peace
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well Fawk A Duck And Screw A Goose

I GIVE UP, my buddy(the one i bought the bike off of) can't get the bike scanned at the local dealer, then i am getting my money back, I have had it for 2 weeks and I am just sitting around staring at 2k sittin there not running, and never will run.

I checked nuetral switch for continuity, and workability.
I checked ignition pulse generator.
checked to see if power is coming to coil yes
checked to see if the injectors are getting volts yes
checked to see if clutch diode is good couldn't figure it out.
checked all fuses again, checked compression and we are running 176 in all cylinders.

PLUGS WERE REPLACED WHEN WE GOT THE BIKE FROM THE IMPOUND YARD. IT RAN WHEN REPO'D, RAN AT THE IMPOUND YARD SOMETIME BEFORE WE GOT IT. WE REPLACED PLUGS WHEN WE GOT IT, AND NOW THE PLUGS THAT ARE BRAND NEW LOOK BRAND NEW STILL, NO GAS, NO FOUL OUT, THEY STILL SMELL LIKE THE ETHER WE SPRAYED IN THERE TO SEE IF IT WOULD RUN, AND IT SEEMS LIKE THE ETHER MADE THE BIKE START AND RUN, BUT NOW THAT I THINK ABOUT IT, I THINK IT WAS JUST FIRING OR DIESEL'N ON COMPRESSION, LIKE SPARK KNOCK'N........

POINT IS... THE BIKE ISN'T GETTING SPARK OR FUEL, ONE OR THE OTHER IS NOT GETTING ADMINISTERED AND IS KEEPING THE ECM FROM ADMINISTERING THE OTHER AS PART OF THE COMPUTER'S PROGRAMMED PROCESS.

I HAVE NO CLUE, I/AS WELL AS OTHERS ARE COMPLETELY MENTALLY DRAINED WHEN THINKING WHAT THE PROBLEM COULD BE.........

WE HAVE YET TO SWAP THE FUEL PUMP BUT AS THIS TIME I AM NOT DOING IT, IT' NOT GETTING SPARK SO IT'S NOT GOING TO ADMINISTER FUEL, AND THE FUEL PUMP WORKS WHEN YOU JUMP THE HARNESS/RELAY.

I DON'T KNOW i GUESS i AM GETTING :urowned BY THIS SUMBIOTCH :beer :beer :beer
 
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