Sport Bikes banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been doing some research before i go ahead and pick up a R6. I was doing research on how to break in a motor...and i came up with this web site oh how to break in your motor
HTML:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I've always learn that you should break in your motor slow and easy, but this article is the exact opposite. ANyone that can give a opinion about this would help me out tremdously
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
here we go again...

this is a very touchy topic as I asked it a few days ago when I get my new 500R. The majority of riders I have spoken with said to ride as similar to that of the website. Basically "ride it hard". Alot of people also say that the engines have already been broken in by the manufactures testing.

Basically what I did was take the bike on a nice stretch of open road after warming the bike up for a good 5 min then doing alot of burst of the trottle the letting it come back down and do it all over again.

The bike runs fine and I kept a good eye on the temps to make sure no over heating takes place. I didn't hit over 8k rpms yet and I don't plan on it untill at least 800km on the odo.

I figure if it needed presure to get the good seal by me giving those burst must of did it. So there was no need to push it into the danger zone.

Hope this helps you. Just make sure at 1000km you go for your first tune up to get rid of the contaminated oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,240 Posts
Didn't we JUST do this?? ok, again, read what the manufacture recomends. If this were the case with the article, then all of the manuals would of been changed already. Go nice and slow, unless you wanna blow it up....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Forget this thread....SORRY GUYS FOR NOT SEARCHING FIRST
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,754 Posts
japbike said:
Didn't we JUST do this?? ok, again, read what the manufacture recomends. If this were the case with the article, then all of the manuals would of been changed already.
Interesting assumption you have there.

Ride it like you plan on riding it. If you are aiming for the ultimate in gas mileage, follow the manufacturer's method. If you want every drop of horsepower, go crazy on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
I'll relay what a mechanical engineer once told me. In grad-school, he participated in a class discussion/arguement on which was the better technique. This is what it came down to:

Hard Break In:
Great for sealing the piston rings nice and quick as well as the best possible seal for more horsepower. Horrible for everything else in the engine as burrs and crap quickly wear things before breaking off and getting into the oil. Not to mention stressing things before they tighten/loosen to operating spec. This technique is perfectly okay as long as you're consistantly tearing your engine down and rebuilding like the racers do and continuously inspect your parts for failure beginnings.

Easy Break In (Manufacturer Spec):
Good for gently nudging your engine into operating conditions and letting things settle correctly while maintaining good seal of the rings. Change your oil after the first 20-50 miles to get all the wear-in shavings out and then as suggested by manufacturer. This is the way consumers who are aiming to have long-lived bikes should break it in. Just don't sit at one rpm range too long or you'll glaze the cylinder walls and the rings won't seat properly.

He also suggested, no matter what you do, run full dino oil for about 2000 miles, then switch to a class 4 synthetic. He uses Mobil 1 and has had more than one mechanic complain that it's too hard to clean up because it's so slick :leghump , thus the reason to not use it during break in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
419 Posts
Like I have stated before.............I rode my bike hard from the time I left the dealer w/ it. No problems to speak of..............
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
I broke in my last gixxer hard then tore it down after 1,500 mile to see what was going on. There were no bearing issues the pistons/cylanders and valves all looked great. That's just my experience though, maybe I was lucky....but then it's more a problem for me to find time to do that sort of teardown than skill.

Only thing to beware of if you got the hard route is that you have to change the only ALOT even with dino oil I dropped a couple hundred dollars on oil alone breaking the bike in. You ABSOLUTELY MUST change your oil like every 25-50 miles for the first 500 or so. There were an amazing amout of shavings coming out of the poor bike. Once I got to 1000 I tore it down did some head work.....and I don't believe the smaller intake port thing on mototune...checked it all out, put in cams and a PCIII and never looked back. Bike had 168rwhp on a dyno without ram air. Lots a fun.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
doesn't the oil filter catch the particles? that's what it's there for. i don't think 15 oil changes are necessary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I've been doing some research before i go ahead and pick up a R6. I was doing research on how to break in a motor...and i came up with this web site oh how to break in your motor
HTML:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I've always learn that you should break in your motor slow and easy, but this article is the exact opposite. ANyone that can give a opinion about this would help me out tremdously
Wow. I am in college studying automotive technology and they said this exact same process with car engines (same principle) except with moderate acceleration. I don't like the idea of redlining a new engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,370 Posts
Wow. I am in college studying automotive technology and they said this exact same process with car engines (same principle) except with moderate acceleration. I don't like the idea of redlining a new engine.
Holy 4 year old thread

That sounds right for cars, but Im more inclined to believe an I-4 race engine could take it better than a car.
 

·
Are we not men?
Joined
·
9,011 Posts
Who covers the warranty: the manufacturer or mototuneusa.com?

Chances are the motor will be just fine, but what if something does go wrong? I've heard reports of current model GSXRs with various problems like valve shims dropped into the motor during assembly and showing up wedged in the stator after 100 miles. I'm sure Suzuki isn't the only manufacturer to occasionally have a problem.

That break-in is fine for a race motor that will likely be torn down in less than 5k miles (probably much less). If you want to have a long-running motor, why push it?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,922 Posts
Wow. I am in college studying automotive technology and they said this exact same process with car engines (same principle) except with moderate acceleration. I don't like the idea of redlining a new engine.
Please...

Do not bump FOUR YEAR OLD THREADS.


:cheers
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top