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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting a fault code 60 - not good, very expensive to repair, i.e., throttle servo motor (have to buy throttle body assembly - $900+) or ECU ($750+). Motor cranks (til battery died) and sounds like its going to fire but doesn't, like it isn't getting fuel. Opening throttle makes no difference. Could also be wiring harness problem but skeptical that this is the cause. Am trying to determine which it is.

Do dealers, or anyone else for that matter, have a means for testing an ECU to see if it's failed? Buying a new one to see if mine has failed is an expensive "test method" if it isn't the problem and then can't return it (to Yamaha dealer under electrical parts exclusion).

:dunno
 

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I'm getting a fault code 60 - not good, very expensive to repair, i.e., throttle servo motor (have to buy throttle body assembly - $900+) or ECU ($750+). Motor cranks (til battery died) and sounds like its going to fire but doesn't, like it isn't getting fuel. Opening throttle makes no difference. Could also be wiring harness problem but skeptical that this is the cause. Am trying to determine which it is.

Do dealers, or anyone else for that matter, have a means for testing an ECU to see if it's failed? Buying a new one to see if mine has failed is an expensive "test method" if it isn't the problem and then can't return it (to Yamaha dealer under electrical parts exclusion).

:dunno
Sorry to hear that. I had the same issues with my 04' R1. They could never figure it out. Sometimes it ran and sometimes it didn't. I personally feel that it's an ecu issue or electrical. I've seen a few Yamaha's of different models do the same thing. Mine would always crank, but it didn't always start or I would be riding and then it would shut off. I was like WTF. It was a death trap and would always die in the twisties or highway.

The best way to test an ecu is to swap one from a working bike. That is the easiest way to test for it and take away the second guessing.
 

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Thanks. That is what I finally got my dealer to agree to do. It wasn't without some hesitancy on their part however. I asked them if I bought an ECU ($750+) from them and it turned out not to be the problem, would they let me return it for a full refund. I got the standard answer - electrical, includes electronics, parts are not returnable. They then saw my logic after some additional discussion and ageed to check out on a swap with a used R1 if they got one or could find one, or perhaps an R1 that came in for service. Here too, they were hesitant to swap it for checkout with an R1 someone brings in for service without telling the owner they were doing it - in case something went wrong with that R1. I can understand that. Waiting to hear. No big deal - R1 isn't going anywhere in current state of repair.
 
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